PSS Shaft Seals for my 54ED

[svaron]

I know that this has been discussed quite frequently in the past. That being said, does anyone have any recent experience upgrading the traditional stuffing boxes with the PSS Dripless system. I am refurbishing my original stuffing boxes and replacing cutlass bearings in the spring and thought that I might upgrade to the PSS system at that time.

I have a 1990 54 ED with 892 TA's

Thanks for your guidance and suggestions

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I've had PSS for the last 16 years. No problems, but I never really had any issues with the traditional packing either other than an adjustment every so often.

 

[Photolomy]

Mine has had PSS since 2012 when the PO rebuilt the engines. No issues.

 

[Photolomy]

I've had PSS for the last 16 years. No problems, but I never really had any issues with the traditional packing either other than an adjustment every so often.

Have you replaced the bellows as part of maintenance? Did you do it yourself?

 

[oldawg]

Make sure the clamps are maintained. MAKE SURE THE CLAMPS ARE MAINTAINED! It is ugly when they fail. Trust me.....

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Make sure the clamps are maintained. MAKE SURE THE CLAMPS ARE MAINTAINED! It is ugly when they fail. Trust me.....

That's good advice. Aboard Aslan, I pull the clamps annually and inspect. I also spray them with Boe-Shield and clean the bellows before reinstalling. I freshwater spray the area every time I clean the adjacent generator sea strainer. There are also clamps on the cooling lines that need attention. Don't forget, like I did in the pic, to double clamp those too. Since taking this shot, I've also begun indexing all double clamps 180 degrees apart. It's easy to over tighten which has a bad effect on the bellows.

PSS is good stuff. Still, it's advisable to get a couple of extra seals in carriers for each shaft. In six years, I've not changed any seals, but I'm ready just in case.

 

[Photolomy]

I suspect that you have to haul the boat out to clean the bellows? Also, what is involved when replacing the bellows as the manufacturer suggests? Actually, how do you clean the bellows? Remove them completely (doesn't that require detaching the shaft from the transmission)?

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

I suspect that you have to haul the boat out to clean the bellows? Also, what is involved when replacing the bellows as the manufacturer suggests? Actually, how do you clean the bellows? Remove them completely (doesn't that require detaching the shaft from the transmission)?

A haul-out is required to replace the bellows. I don't know anything about cleaning other than what's inside the boat.

 

[Fanfare]

PSS has the carbon/stainless seal. Tidesmarine has the replaceable lip seals that can be kept in an installed carrier.

 

[Photolomy]

A haul-out is required to replace the bellows. I don't know anything about cleaning other than what's inside the boat.

Sorry, I misunderstood, you meant clean the outside of the bellows, under the clamps. And I guess you take one clamp off at a time, clean/inspect it, and put it back.

This thread got my attention because my PSS is 8 years old and I think it is time to replace the bellows.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Sorry, I misunderstood, you meant clean the outside of the bellows, under the clamps. And I guess you take one clamp off at a time, clean/inspect it, and put it back.

Yep, exactly. The clamps will most often have rust on their bottoms. If it wipes off, good. Use a soft brush and get the corresponding deposits off the bellows too. If the clamp's pitted (even lightly), replace and use that clamp for a less critical area or save as a spare. Again, if you clean the area well and use a corrosion inhibitor, you'll get indefinite use from the clamps. Another example: I just pulled eight 10" exhaust clamps while I was working close by. I know it's been a year. Still only a couple showed superficial corrosion; they were previously sprayed with inhibitor.

Having had a trip delayed for two days in '17 because of a coolant clamp letting go, no clamps go anywhere on Aslan unless they get a shot of corrosion inhibitor. It's no trouble once the routine is established.

 

[Jammin']

Speaking of clamps, I found two like this on my exhaust the other day. I am amazed that I'm still finding stuff like this.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I have not replaced the bellows on mine. I inspect them annually looking for any deterioration or cracking and have found none. The clamps looks good as well but I'm in fresh water.

 

[edward]

What kind/name rust inhibitor ?

 

[Photolomy]

"I have not replaced the bellows on mine. I inspect them annually looking for any deterioration or cracking and have found none. The clamps looks good as well but I'm in fresh water."

I like this answer.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Boeshield T9 works.

 

[luckydave215]

This thread got my attention because my PSS is 8 years old and I think it is time to replace the bellows.

I replaced mine at 15 years old even though they looked and felt perfect. When removed, the inside looked and felt perfect too, the seals nowhere close to being worn out.
It was all apart, so I replaced the whole thing anyway. I went through the entire driveline at the same time, cutlass bearings, shaft check, prop scan, etc.

And I agree MAINTAIN THE CLAMPS!!!

 

[Photolomy]

Thanks for the replies. If I were to replace them on my next haul out (which is now for a bottom paint), what is involved?

I assume that you unbolt the shaft coupling from the transmission and then slide the shaft and coupling aft enough to allow the bellows to be removed. How do you secure the shaft so that it doesn't just slide out of the boat due to gravity? Or is that not possible? Next, I know that the coupling is keyed to the shaft, how do you detach it from the shaft? Does it slide aft on the shaft and then you remove the key and then slide it forward off the shaft? Also, how stubborn are these steps? How hard is it to slide the shaft aft and how hard is it to remove the coupling from the shaft? After that, the process of removing and reinstalling the new bellows etc. seems relatively easy.

 

[Boatsb]

It's not easy at all.

Most shafts are tapered and the coupler is on like a prop. Smaller may be straight but still hard to pull apart. There's little space to work in and usually rusty bolts and parts.

Installing the new dripless require a perfect surface on the shaft so if it's worn you have a problem with the seal being torn up.

It's a pretty big job especially if your only doing the seals. Do all the bearings and any shaft work you will need at the same time.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Coupling is on a tapered shaft like your prop. After you remove the nut, you need to put something on the end of that shaft and re-tighten it to the transmission to push the shaft out of the coupling. I used a socket for that last time I did it, but you can also use a puller instead. Its not difficult but they can be stubborn.

The shaft won't fall out if the prop is still on there because it will hit the rudder.