Prop Puller Recommendations (apparently I have a unicorn)

[Captain Ralph]

Anybody thought of a gear puller with chains (around the blades bases) in place of the jaws?

 

[bostonhatteras]

Good looking puller, but I can't see using anything but steel. Hard to believe aluminum would be strong enough.

I took the chance and won. Milwaukee impact wrench set to highest torque coupled with the grade 8 + hardware and it works.

 

[RyanB]

Time to crack the clutch coupler. Push the whole shaft back.
Pop the wheel with normal tool.

Then, order a coupler/flange spacer and reassemble.
This will leave prop puller clearance for next removal.

Thanks, Ralph. I'm not sure why, but splitting the coupling never crossed my mind (this is still somewhat new to me). I did just that and was able to get the spacing needed.

I spent most of the weekend there, and finally got them off. It took the right tool (of course), which was a Walter style puller. Once I got the props off, I then realized the strut pro shims (borrowed from the guy that was hired to do the job in the first place) were incorrect for what I needed, so I then had to overnight in the correct shims, and horse shoes, for Saturday morning delivery. UPS decided to join in on the fun and screw me, not showing up on Saturday and pushed the delivery out till this morning.

This whole thing is getting soooooo long in the tooth, its got me questioning how this is worth it LOL. The marina is an hour each way from my house, and I'm on trip #4 to get this tackled.

The largest trailerable express that can fit into my 40x80 heated building in my driveway, is starting to show its appeal!

 

[Bob Bradley]

While you have them off, get them drilled and tapped for a prop smith. Even if you don't buy the tool now, you'll have a better option for the next time.

 

[bigbill]

i dont know much about the propsmith tool but if your prop has the 3 threaded holes in them why wouldnt a harmonic balance puller work? they have slots for the bolts so it will fit different diameter bolt patterns.. hell i may drill and tap my props, i already have the puller

 

[Bob Bradley]

Take a look at the propsmith demo on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_t0vlqkyC9o

The prop install procedure starts around 1:00. Removal starts around 2:30. It made me a believer. I've used it several times and it works like a charm. Two years ago I clobbered a log off Block Island. I had the boat pulled by a local marina, one of the very few that I trust to work on my boat. I didn't have time to get there to pull the prop myself, so I asked the yard to take care of it for me. They called me the next day and told me that they were going to have to cut my shaft, as there was no way the prop would come off. They told me that if their hydraulic prop puller would not get it off, then nothing would. I told them where to find the propsmith on my boat, but they were not comfortable using my tool, so I had to go out and do it myself. It was fairly amusing as the yard manager, easily 30 years younger than me stood there watching the old man place the tool on the prop and casually tighten a half dozen allan head bolts. About the third pass around the hub tightening the bolts, the prop popped off with a bang. I only wish I had a picture of the look on his face.

 

[doc g]

another great thing about the PS is knowing that you have the wheel installed properly by using the tool to do the install. It makes sure the prop is seated all the way on the taper. I will not ever try to use anything else on a prop again. I think all Hats 1999 or newer came with props drilled and a Propsmith onboard. .......Pat

 

[RyanB]

While you have them off, get them drilled and tapped for a prop smith. Even if you don't buy the tool now, you'll have a better option for the next time.

For the sake of time, I skipped having them drilled and tapped. I might have it done over the winter, but I'm really hoping to not have to yank them off again any time soon. That and I just bought a knocker and puller in the last week, so the thought of a 3rd right now might get my A#* chewed out at home.

 

[RyanB]

I was able to get everything reinstalled last night. The port shaft is slightly compressing the rubber in the bearing (on bottom). Is this normal? I thought the engine could be misaligned a bit, but don't want to jump at anything until she's floating again. Stbd shaft to be more even around the OD of the shaft.

The pic isn't the best, but you can see a hair of space above the shaft. Still much tighter that before, but figured it was worth an ask.