Prop Puller Recommendations (apparently I have a unicorn)

[RyanB]

In my area we have little to no marine service, so I try to do everything myself. To save time, I had a friend attempt to replace my strut bearings, but he cannot get his prop puller to work. I've tried three different pullers and none fit.

The problem appears to be the space between the strut and the back of the prop hub. See pic below, its pretty tight.

Surely I cant be the only one to have this issue. Any recommendations on a puller that would work?

 

[Captain Ralph]

Under the shaft nuts, are there threaded holes into the propeller hub?

You may end up heating the hub and tapping the hub with a BFH.


BFH; Big Freaking Hammer

 

[Bob Quinn]

I cant see the size of the gap but I made one for myself with a piece of 1/2" plate, I think there was maybe 3/4" to 1" of room behind the prop at most.

They also make those "Ringer" type pullers that don't actually use force to break the prop loose but vibrate it loose. Might be worth a try?

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I have seen the "ringer" trick done with just a hammer tapping the end of the shaft. Its amazing that it even works and I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it done.

 

[Bob Bradley]

As Ralph said, check to see if the prop happens to have been tapped for a PropSmith tool. Expensive, but worth every nickel. If not, I'd go with Bob's approach and have a puller fabricated out of steel. Two round steel disks, about 2 or 3 inches larger in diameter than your hub. Have them bore a hole in one about 1/4" bigger than your shaft size then cut a channel straight out to the edge the same width. Basically a big "U" that will slip over the shaft forward of the prop. Hopefully you can get 1/2" to fit in the gap, but go with the biggest you can find. Drill 4 holes in each disk for fine thread threaded rods. Put as much pressure as you can get on it. It will probably pop on its own, but if not, heat it a bit and it should. McMaster Carr has fine thread rods. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/t...read-spacing~fine/?s=threaded+rod+fine+thread

 

[CGHOST4]

"Prop Knocker", Google it, you may be able to borrow one.

 

[jmooney]

When you put it back together , put the small nut on first . I have seen yards bang on the end of the shaft with a big hammer . It does work, but all that force is going to your transmission . I would not try that . Use a puller . If you make one , I would use 3/4 inch threaded rods, nuts on both ends as a lot of force will be needed. You will probably get one off easily , the other will be a bear to loosen.

 

[RyanB]

For now, just to save time, I overnighted a Prop Knocker and crossed my fingers that it works. The guy who makes them swears it only takes a few light taps and it'll loosen up. We shall see.

I was supposed to have this done weeks ago, and launch tomorrow, just to find out yesterday no one has a puller that fits.... so I'm scrambling at the moment otherwise I'd try to have a low profile one made.

I'll be at the storage building tomorrow knocking my shafts and pulling/pushing bearings, alone. So much for me trying to save time and hire it out LOL!


Thank you for the feedback!

 

[RyanB]

When you put it back together , put the small nut on first .

I've never done this before so curious, why does it matter is the thinner nut goes on first or last?

 

[Captain Ralph]

Those prop knockers scare me.
One bad hit and you stress or possibly bend the threaded end of the shaft?

Anybody think of grinding down the back jaws of an old style puller to make fit?

 

[KPTIM]

Just google search "small nut first on prop shaft"

You will get all the information you can stand on why from what the Coast Guard says, ABYC, and SAE.

The small nut, also called a Jam Nut or a Half Nut does goes on first.

 

[Bob Quinn]

If it doesn't work and you need to fabricate one I could share a picture of what I did, that you could make locally.

I could send you mine, but I think you have different size shafts etc. so it might not fit.

Let us know if the Nut Knocker works.

I pm'd you my contact info if you want pictures / help with making one.

 

[jmooney]

I've never done this before so curious, why does it matter is the thinner nut goes on first or last?

One theory is that if the smaller nut is on first and it loosens , the larger nut now takes the load .

 

[fixin-to-cruise]

A prop puller is about $600 for my 3" shafts and not really needed. Get some stainless threaded rod the size of the holes in the aft face of the prop and a 3/8" or so steel plate. Drill 2 holes in the plate at the appropriate spacing and torque some hex nuts to get some pull tension on the prop. You will probably need to hit the prop with a light to moderate hammer blow and the prop will likely pop right off. It will just slide back about half an inch normally. If your underwater tie a rope to it because it might slip off further! I've done this several times on my 38x37 props with 3" shafts. Your props might have 3 holes for the puller.

 

[fixin-to-cruise]

One theory is that if the smaller nut is on first and it loosens , the larger nut now takes the load .

I'm thinking the larger nut takes the load off the smaller one that is put on first because it will move the prop (and the smaller nut a few thousandth's of an inch) further in on the tapered portion of the shaft.

 

[bostonhatteras]

I purchased this guys puller maxes out at 2" shaft but works great it was only $100 when i purchased looks like he realized the value. I replaced the supplied threaded rod with grade 8 and class 10 nuts from mcmaster, the supplied rod and nuts appeared to be hardware grade or so and worked for a lightly seated prop but when push came to shove (or pull?) the hardware stretched big time. Now with heavy hardware and an impact wrench props just pop right off. works great. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3547254929...b7zTfCnb+bJR/nnNMWjwc5Tw==|tkp:Bk9SR6qv6tL0YQ

 

[Bob Bradley]

Good looking puller, but I can't see using anything but steel. Hard to believe aluminum would be strong enough.

 

[Bob Quinn]

In the case of RyanB VS Machine, who won? We are rooting for you Ryan!

 

[RyanB]

The props laughed in my face and still remain on. I called 4 local marina's and no puller could be rented, nor did they have one for our 27" props. Apparently all the tiaras running gear is much smaller and common in out area.

Long Story short, I bought a Walter style puller for 3, 4, or 5 blade props. My fear is that it will not fit into the tight space between the strut and prop hub (only 5/8").

I'm gong to take a look at that Ebay one as well, as I might get it sooner and time is of the essence right now.

Glass half full mindset - it wasn't a complete waste of a day. My Dad decided to join me, he and I spent 9 hours crawling around a concrete floor knocking the piss out of a $180 glorified brass nut, cursing out the props (and boats in general), and finally shaking our heads and laughing (defeatedly) over a beer..... all in all, pretty darn good day I'm sure I'll never forget.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Time to crack the clutch coupler. Push the whole shaft back.
Pop the wheel with normal tool.

Then, order a coupler/flange spacer and reassemble.
This will leave prop puller clearance for next removal.