Pilot House Door Rollers

[JD5652]

I have a 1976 58LRC and have the pilot house doors off for painting and refurbishing.

The rollers don't work as well as they used to... want to replace them "while I'm there"... called Sam's Marine and they don't know the manufacturer or have these in stock.

Anyone have any ideas??..

 

[Captain Ralph]

I think those are serviceable. Peek here for ideas.

https://www.mcmaster.com/door-rollers/v-groove-track-wheels/

 

[KPTIM]

Here is the link to the roller assemblies I used on my 1979 53 MY pilot house door rebuilds.

When you take them off the original doors you will find that the top rollers have springs on the mounting hardware (screws) so you can lift the doors up and out. When you reinstall them the springs keep the top rollers engaged. Make sure you buy 316 SS springs.

There is a thread or two on the SAMS site about this.

https://www.ovisonline.com/Sheave-1...MIo-_F8Zq39wIVHgaICR0ylAbTEAQYASABEgIwyfD_BwE

 

[KPTIM]

OK, now I feel real bad since my post a moment ago on this.
You can still get them from SAMS.
Part number 84261
In Stock.
Buy them from SAMS and support our site.

 

[SEVEN]

Make sure you keep track of how many washers are used between the roller and the door itself. It gives you the proper adjustment.

 

[drburke]

I like SAMs for stuff like this, and am a huge fan of McMaster.

But in this case, the real go-to is Swisco in NJ who have an enormous selection of replacement glides and rollers.

https://www.swisco.com/

See the catalog under doors and windows...patio door components. (For home use, they have identifiers and kits for nearly all sliding doors ever made!)

DAN

 

[JD5652]

Here is the link to the roller assemblies I used on my 1979 53 MY pilot house door rebuilds.

When you take them off the original doors you will find that the top rollers have springs on the mounting hardware (screws) so you can lift the doors up and out. When you reinstall them the springs keep the top rollers engaged. Make sure you buy 316 SS springs.

There is a thread or two on the SAMS site about this.

https://www.ovisonline.com/Sheave-1...MIo-_F8Zq39wIVHgaICR0ylAbTEAQYASABEgIwyfD_BwE

OK, now I feel real bad since my post a moment ago on this.
You can still get them from SAMS.
Part number 84261
In Stock.
Buy them from SAMS and support our site.

That certainly looks EXACTLY like them. I'm going to remove at least one so I can verify dimensions, etc.

MANY THANKS!!

 

[JD5652]

Make sure you keep track of how many washers are used between the roller and the door itself. It gives you the proper adjustment.

Thanks for the heads up!

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Sams shows 40 in stock. Who did you talk to??



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Part Number: 84261
Part Description: Sheave-Nylon, (For sliding wo
Unit of Measure: Ea.
Price: $26.16
Sam's Marine International, Inc.
Loc Bin Qty
21 0.0
41 050206/ovst 090204 40.0

 

[JD5652]

Sams shows 40 in stock. Who did you talk to??



Home
Search for Part

All Parts
Email Sam

click on part # for details

Part Number: 84261
Part Description: Sheave-Nylon, (For sliding wo
Unit of Measure: Ea.
Price: $26.16
Sam's Marine International, Inc.
Loc Bin Qty
21 0.0
41 050206/ovst 090204 40.0

I talked to Jeremy about 2-3 weeks ago. I'll get an order out to them today.

Thanks!

 

[JD5652]

Make sure you keep track of how many washers are used between the roller and the door itself. It gives you the proper adjustment.

Thanks again for the heads up on the washers. If I didn't know that in advance, I might have not even noticed them much less be aware to count them to ensure the new rollers go on correctly.

Just one of the GREAT things about this site!

A couple other things I noticed.... the screws holding the roller assembly in are CRAZY LONG!

I'll also be cleaning up the cavity in the door and brushing with a little thinned West Systems epoxy to bolster up that area and the 46 year old door.

Also, the rollers on the top of my door are NOT spring loaded. They are same as the bottom, hard mounted.

Thanks everyone!!

 

[JD5652]

...

 

[SEVEN]

I put a couple toothpicks in the holes before replacing the screws to give it a firm bite.

 

[Captain Ralph]

I put a couple toothpicks in the holes before replacing the screws to give it a firm bite.

I was thinking the same but epoxy some toothpicks in the holes filling them completely. Then punch new pilot holes for your screws. The exopy would help keep the original wood together and you could get the assembly back in there strighter or more centered.

 

[JD5652]

I was thinking the same but epoxy some toothpicks in the holes filling them completely. Then punch new pilot holes for your screws. The exopy would help keep the original wood together and you could get the assembly back in there strighter or more centered.

Will definitely use the toothpick trick.... filling holes completely ... I also have syringes that I use to get the resin deep into the holes and crevices....

 

[IOLANI]

I think I'm headed down this road soon...if the top rollers are not spring loaded how is it possible to lift the door up and off the track to remove ?



.

 

[jim rosenthal]

This might allow me to actually get the sliding doors in my house repaired. I've only lived here since 1996, and never fixed them because I couldn't find replacement hardware. Thanks!

 

[JD5652]

I think I'm headed down this road soon...if the top rollers are not spring loaded how is it possible to lift the door up and off the track to remove ?
.

In my case, you DON'T lift the doors up to get them in/out. I have a STOP located on the lower aft runner. I remove the STOP and slide the doors aft off of the runner.

 

[IOLANI]

In my case, you DON'T lift the doors up to get them in/out. I have a STOP located on the lower aft runner. I remove the STOP and slide the doors aft off of the runner.

Yeah I have a stop like what you’re describing with a rubber bumper on it. Hard to tell how you would remove that though the screws must be painted over.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Take the metal trim strip off that runs along the side of the bottom track, then the door will come out.