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Panish Control Levers

Blaine Thorpe

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2005
Messages
594
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
43' CONVERTIBLE-Series II (1991 - 1998)
Looking for some Panish control levers. Just broke the third one and don’t have any spares. I guess my other option is th change one station over to another type of levers.

Thanks,

Blaine
 
Can you send a photo of what you’re looking for. I might be able to help.
 
I’ll get one later today.

Thanks
 
Here are a couple of photos. The problem is that the shaft is integrated onto the lever. Otherwise I might be able to make another lever work.

Thanks,
 

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I tried my Panish web address today.
OOps, dead site..
Did the company go down???
 
Grind and tap threads on what is left and screw on new balls.
I remember years ago making my own teak balls.
Looked better than mine......
 
Thought I could help but mine will not match up. Sorry.
 
I'm waiting for this thread to take a turn for the gutter.
 
Are you able to remove the handle/handles from the shaft.
If yes how about a photo?
Thinking you might be able to adapt a different handle to work on your control.

Also, are those the Panish controls that operate through a separate box using a big thick cable with the ball bearings or do they work more like a regular Morse type control using 33 or 43 cables?

Pretty sure I remember when Panish closed somebody posted on line somewhere about contact info for parts, just can't remember exactly. Were they from CT????
 
Just found this from Sept 2016:

Contact PANISH CONTROLS directly

The guy is real nice. Located at 19 Bennett St, Bridgeport Ct (203) 333-7371. Keeps odd hours but when you get him you cant get him off phone.
 
Are you able to remove the handle/handles from the shaft.
If yes how about a photo?
Thinking you might be able to adapt a different handle to work on your control.

Also, are those the Panish controls that operate through a separate box using a big thick cable with the ball bearings or do they work more like a regular Morse type control using 33 or 43 cables?

Pretty sure I remember when Panish closed somebody posted on line somewhere about contact info for parts, just can't remember exactly. Were they from CT????

I’ve thought about trying to separate the lever from the shaft to see If I could mount a different handle. Wanted to see what might be out there for parts first. My next thought was trying to drill the remaining part but still use the top part as well and thread a longer stud through both.. That may be the route I go for now. I think I have one more lever, but we’ve moved and don’t have everything unpacked yet.

I have left a couple of messages last week on the number you suggested. Haven’t heard anything back yet. My last option would be to change the tower controls over to Morse, SeaStar, etc.

Thanks,

Blaine
 
If you're going to change the entire unit take a good look at Kobelt, as far as i"m concerned none of the others are even close to their quality, all bronze and stainless, no pot metal etc. CL Associates in Ft Lauderdale really knows their away around this stuff to point you in the right direction.

http://kobelt.com/products/marine-throttle-controls/push-pull/list/control-heads-push-pull

CL Associates have the Kobelt 2046 control custom made for an easy Palm Beach single lever control install. This model only works for a single station but theres lots of other models and configs.Cricket Helm 1.webpCricket Helm 2.webp
 

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Last edited:
If you're going to change the entire unit take a good look at Kobelt, as far as i"m concerned none of the others are even close to their quality, all bronze and stainless, no pot metal etc. CL Associates in Ft Lauderdale really knows their away around this stuff to point you in the right direction.

http://kobelt.com/products/marine-throttle-controls/push-pull/list/control-heads-push-pull

CL Associates have the Kobelt 2046 control custom made for an easy Palm Beach single lever control install. This model only works for a single station but theres lots of other models and configs.

I’ll take a look. Could put those on the bridge and move the bridge controls to the tower.
 
Blaine, I just found a box with More control levers in it, would they fit the Panish controls, you think? I don't know if they are the same thread dimension.
 
Just purchased some welding rods of the internet that claims they can weld pot metal. That is what those look like. I have not tryed them yet but they claim to have a low melting point so you can use a propane torch, just clean and bevel the crack.
wire brush and grinder. watch the video on you tube. Low temp aluminium welding rod. By far the easiest and fasted way to repair.l the
 
Blaine, I just found a box with More control levers in it, would they fit the Panish controls, you think? I don't know if they are the same thread dimension.

Jim, Would you have photos. The handles don’t come off of the shaft. The critical dimension would be the shaft diameter and length.
 
I haven’t done anything as yet. For now I am going to swap levers with the port throttle. If I leave it in sync I won’t have to use that one much.
 

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