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Paint Sealant vs Wax???

  • Thread starter Thread starter emarn
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I am also in the Finesse-it II camp, using Rejex as my sealant/polish of choice afterward. Boat pretty much follows the sun from MA to NC to FL and back. We give it the full treatment about every 18 months, nothing but washing in between. Side benefit is that the notorious ICW and Neuse River "mustaches" wash off with a very mild-to-no soap wash off. Made a believer of a very experienced NC detailer who had heretofore sworn by Fleetwax.

Attendees of the recent Hatteras school saw her handiwork, though it was only a couple of months old at that point.
 
"So I buzz the cockpit up and paint it with Imron every 2 years"

I don't understand that at all; regular old acrylic lacquer should easily last a lot longer than 2 years! I shot a car with acrylic lacquer in 1975 that still looked like new in 1990 when I sold it and it was never garaged - yes, I did wax that one periodically! :)


Did you ever drag 150qt Igloo coolers filled with ice and fish across the hood?
I use a full can of evercote lightweight filler just for the gouges. Ever see what a 100lb yellowfin with a 12" flying gaff hook in him does to the cockpit?Its UGLY!!! hahaha And I dont make peeps take their shoes off either.LOL
 
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George, can you post more about Rejex? I am interested in trying it out on my boat. Blue Note was painted with Awlgrip about ten years ago, and looks okay but not great. A lot of the paint above the toe rail is dull. I am planning to repaint the deck and would like to be able to make the rest look better without painting it over again. It has been waxed several times- I suppose all that will have to come off.
 
Jim, I don't know that there is much more I can say other than a very happy customer. You do have to follow the directions for best results, but it is easy to apply. See http://www.rejex.com/rejex.html for details. I was introduced to it by Anchor Bay East in Dundalk where I had a rub rail-down job done in the spring of 08 which held up very nicely over th ensuing year or so of traveling almost the entire east coast and back. We lived on a mooring for several months, plus a lot of anchoring so the boat did not get regular wash downs. This picture was taken in Westport Harbor, MA 4 1/2 months since application and at least 2 months since a proper hose down:

Summer%20and%20Fall%20%2708%20072.jpg


You could about shave in the reflection.

Note that Rejex is just a sealant and adds a gloss over whatever is underneath. Thus whatever is underneath needs to be clean and shiney, ergo the use of Finesse-It II if your paint is in good shape or first something a little more aggressive if it is not. That is what I had to do to my toe rails and other more vertical surfaces this spring, which had not been polished in 3 years. I'm pretty sure she used 3M Perfect-It for that and it turned out great.
 
The MSDS for REJEX says it contains a proprietary siloxane. They claim it doesn't interefere with painting. Uhhhm I wonder????
 
Not sure what that means Bob, but I can't see painting over it. Prep sanding takes it off.
 
FWIW - Remember - prep sanding does not remove contaminants like silicone - it just drives it into the surface and makes it much more difficult to deal with. First step after washing is thorough cleaning with the appropriate solvent. Whether Rejex contains silicone or if slioxene is an equally troublesome component, I have no idea.
 
FWIW - Remember - prep sanding does not remove contaminants like silicone - it just drives it into the surface and makes it much more difficult to deal with. First step after washing is thorough cleaning with the appropriate solvent. Whether Rejex contains silicone or if slioxene is an equally troublesome component, I have no idea.


Mikes right, I got some silicone dielectric grease on the paint. sanded it wiped it down with prep sol and it still fish eyed when i painted it. Had to sand the crap out of the area and wipe it down with MEK to get the paint to stick.
 
I think the lesson for me here is that I should paint what I am going to paint, first, and THEN clean up the boat with FinesseIt and apply Rejex. I can't afford to paint the whole boat now, and I don't want to even if I could afford it. What I want is for it to look nicer, and I think this would do that if I am careful about the order in which I do all this. Thanks, George.
 
No, Rejex does not have silicone and yes, it (Rejex) comes off easily with off the shelf hull cleaner acid solutions, strong detergents or wet sanding. I know this from first hand experience.

I also agree you don't want a silicone product anywhere near your gel coat or paint; this too I know from first, second and third hand experience.
 
I'm not trying to be an alarmist here. Siloxanes are virtually silicones. See this link. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siloxane Just want to urge some caution.

Bob
(the chemist on the forum)
 
Virtually is not "is". But if you think that I, and many other happy users of this product on painted or gelcoat boats, as well as numerous painters and detailers, are lying to you, then suit yourself, I can't help you. Keep in mind that sand IS silicone, glass IS silicone and so on, and even actually being silicone they don't cause issues either...
 
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What is the best way to apply the teflon polish by hand or machine.

Mike
55C "Habanero"
 
I am not sure about Teflon, but Rejex is easily applied by hand. They have good direction on the link I posted earlier.
 
Keep in mind that sand IS silicone, glass IS silicone and so on,
They're "Silicon" like your computer chips, not "Silicone" like fake boobs.
 
Right - siliCON won't cause paint to fish-eye! :)
 
Silicones are polymers that include silicon together with carbon, hydrogen, oxygen.
Silicon wont make paint fisheye but silicone def will.
Wonder whatr silly putty would do?

Hey my boobs are real.
 

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