Paint prep?

[Rickysa]

Tried a search because I know I've read threads about this in the past, but came up with zip (which speaks alot about my computer skills, but I digress.. )

I'm going to be purchasing a bunch of stuff to paint a car restoration project and slowly climb up the learning curve on how to do it...I figured I may as well tackle the boat.

How far down do you take it when sanding? What are the pro/cons for abrasive blasting fiberglass (I've gotta get that stuff also for the car)?

Rick

 

[yachtsmanbill]

You need to be careful blasting OR aggressive sanding on sheet metal. It will actually heat and warp the panels. Unless its real bad, use the sanded paint as a surface gauge to indicate high and low spots. Prime and wet sand before top coat. Blasting is good for rusty iron or tons of bottom paint.
If you really feel the need to strip to bare metal, use a chemical stripper. That will work for laquer and alkyd enamel, but for the better part not base coat / clear coat. What are you painting? ws

 

[Rickysa]

Bill,

Thanks for the reply....I'm working on a '51 Chevy pickup...fortunately most of the panel work has been done, but I'm getting the blasting gear for the bed.

I've always wanted to learn how to paint, and having heard too many horror stories about paint/body shops, I figured this was the time to do so.

Since I've got the gear, I figured I'd do the boat next (since I got quotes and damn-near passed out). The sewing thing is going great, so no more getting taken by canvas shops...I figured I might as well try to figure the paint thing out...after all it's just time and money

Rick

 

[thoward]

Google "soda blast", that is one of the ways they keep from messing the sheet metal.

It has been a long time since I painted a car but I think we DAed with 220 grit, primed, and then wet sanded with 320 grit. If paint is in good shape you could get away with just a wet sand..... Or, if you are really good you could just DA sand it.....

 

[yachtsmanbill]

TH is right, but dont attack it with too much ZEAL. Even soda blasting requires care, and a few trips around and around. A little at a time or youll get carried away in spots. Duct tape and cardboard for the glass. Masking takes time and effort... anything not covered, even 6 inches away will be dulled. You should consider Grizzly Grip for the bed. Beats RhinoCoat.
As round as that old shoe box is, build up primer on the panels, and hand sand with some 220 dry, and when finished with priming wet sand. PROFILE to the paint mfgrs. specs. Awlgrip says 180 ( WAY RUFF ) but any finer and the tak coat runs like water.
What are you painting the '51 with? This is my '26 model T from 3 years ago. The whole bottom was redone with resto patch panels and homemade panels where necessary --mig'd in. Not perfect, but not too many T's are. Email me for tips and pics etc. yachtsman36@comcast.net ws

 

[Rickysa]

Bill,

Great looking project you got there!

I'm not sure what I'll be using on the car, as that is a good ways down the road, but Imron for sure on the boat. I figure I'll start on the flybridge first, and hopefully use an abrasive to remove it a few times until I get the hang of it...having to re-sand would not be fun.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Get yourself an electric 5" DA and have at it! Start with 120 or 140 and make LOONG strokes with it to prevent making divits. Try to keep the DA flat.You can take a #2 pencil and make shading marks to help you gauge your progress too. Take as much hardware off as you can. PREP is everything !! ws

 

[rswirtz]

Whats a "DA" ?

 

[thoward]

Dual action sander. You can lock the head to use it as a grinder or leave it unlocked as an orbital. 2 tools in one or dual action.

Do not forget a chemical mask. They sell one now that covers the eyes, nose and mouth. I will be getting one of those for my next bottom job

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Dual Action -- random orbital ws

 

[OVERSPRAY]

Hey guys, Had to Chime in. 20+ years in the B-Shop biz I have only a few comments, Since this is somewhat off thread I'll make it generic ,First and foremost. Your final end result will only be as good as the weakest componant in your refinishing system, If you cheap out on your prep products you will have a cheap nondurable end result no matter how much time and money you spend on the final finish. if your surface has been previously covered with someone elses product you should know which one it is. it will make a difference in the end. if it is not a high quality sealer primer, it has to come off. you never know what people will put over bare metal and filler just to make some thing one color. anything less than epoxy sealer over bare metal is unacceptable and will lead to failure of subsequent top coats. urethane primer surfacers will hide alot of sins boat on boats and vehicles. but have little corrosion protection. oops I'm rambling Any questions email me I'll setcha strait, this is the only thing I was ever really good at, ask my ex wife.

Charlie