Sam's is your source for Hatteras and Cabo Yacht parts.

Enter a part description OR part number to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog:

Email Sam's or call 1-800-678-9230 to order parts.

Outback 32V Inverter/Charger

  • Thread starter Thread starter jcrlaw
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 35
  • Views Views 15,294
But, at least I get to use my boat. I didn't buy it and then move 3000 miles away.

OK, you got me there! But, you are the first to know (well, not the VERY first - that would be Dr Jim since he engineered it); I'm moving the boat 275 miles closer to me! Yep, no longer 3000 miles, only 2725!

In mid May I'll be moving Brigadoon from her old home in Northport NY to a new home on the Chesapeake Bay where she'll have her very own covered slip! She'll be there for at least a season and heck, who knows, maybe permanently. We stilll haven't decided if we REALLY want the boat down here; we keep going back and forth. iIt might be nicer to keep her on the Chesapeake and visit maybe quarterly or more for extended cruises. Heck, if it doesn't work out, we'll just move her again whenever.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I've been researching chargers and the Outback keeps coming up. For those that have installed the 3232:
- Are you still happy with it?
- Would you do it again?
- Does anyone know if it will charge 2 or 3 banks, or do I need a unit for each bank?

Thanks!
 
Google Marysville Inverter for a good price. No connection, just a satisfied customer.
 
Bob,
Google didn't turn up much. Where are they located?
Are you using the Outback 3232?
Thanks.
 
Like other inverters, Outbacks are designed to charge just the bank that feeds them. Mike P has written extensively here about his installation and how he ended up joining his banks.

The various solar energy shops seem to be the best source for these, such as

http://www.mrsolar.com/page/MSOS/CTGY/outback

who is based near you in Hunting Valley, MD.

I ended up installing a separate 24v bank system and using a Magnum; I wanted more amp hour capacity and to leave the original banks to their original purpose. There are pros and cons to each approach. The biggest con in my case is that I have still not got around to installing a second, 24v alternator on one of the engines, so I am more dependent on the generator than I would ideally like, and cycle the inverter bank a bit more than I would like. But it has worked nicely for 2 years of full time cruising, living on the hook or a mooring for months worth of time, powering a large household sized Sub Zero refrigerator and other hungry appliances.

If I had to do it over and had a bigger budget, I would likely go with the Outback and have added a small, say 7kw, second "night generator".
 
if you are going to use the automatic built in transfer switch for automatic operation, you have to consider the number of input lines and the size of the pass thru breaker that protect the switches.

last time i checked (it may have changed by now) the outbacks only have one input line therefore the power coming into the inverter is shared for pass thru power and charging. If you're sending 30amps (at 110v) to the inverter some of that is going to be use to power the loads whcih are normally inverter powered and whatever is left will be used to charge the batteries. you will never get the full charging capacity and will end up running the genset much longer.

that is a big issue in the real world where typically you will run on inverter during the day and run the genset at night to recharge the batteries since that's when you use the most power (lights, cooking, entertainment, etc...)(

if you have two lines in, you can charge at the full rate which is much faster.

Again, if you are giong to use a rotary switch or a pair of breaker with safety slide to operate the inverter manually, then it's a non issue.

Personally i like Magnum inverters....very well built, good tech support and built in the US. but i don't think they make a 32v unit which i think is a non issue since usually if you are going to install an inverter you will want to increase the battery capacity, then you may as well use a 24v unit and bank.

I know Mike disagrees on that one :) and in all fairness there is not a black or white answer...
 
Some thoughts and right up front, I am a BIG fan of this inverter.

Pascal is absolutely right about the limitation re the single 30A 120vac input to the Outback. That 30 amps will be divided, if necessary, to provide charging for the batts and power to whatever device the inverter is connected to. Whether that has any actual impact will depend on how you set it up the circuits.

With ac power to the boat (genny or shore) the inverter's maximum charging power will be reduced as necessary if other AC loads on the pass-through circuit exceed 11 Amps. The max charging power of the inverter is 19A at 120vac - about 60 amps to the batts. So whether you have no ac power being pulled from the inverter circuit to run something or you have 11 amps being pulled by devices connected to the inverter, the charging max output is the same to the batts (and more than the oem Lamarche charger could deliver).

OK, so what does that mean for practical operation? Well, it depends on what is connected to the inverter. In our case, the inverter or its pass-thru circuit powers: the fridge wall socket, the microwave wall socket, the stereo/tv sockets, one master stateroom wall socket, the shore power cable extender, and the davit. I have never observed the charging rate to be reduced except if a hair dryer or the davit was running in combination with other devices. The usual and more constant duty items have no impact at all. The typical load at the tv and stereo sockets is seldom more than 2A when operating. All the voltages/division of power are visible using the Outback "mate" which is optional but after NOT having it for a year, based on Sky's recommendation, I purchased it and now also recommend that you purchase it with the outback.

Obviously, if you set up the inverter to run more AC stuff, then at some point you could reduce the charging to the point where it makes a difference. But for us, there is no downside at all. The LaMarche used to take 5-6 hours to recharge the batts from around 12-15 hours on the hook; the Outback will do it in 2. It is a far more efficient charger and a really efficient inverter.

The other limitation Pascal noted is the fact that the inverter has ONE charging output. That means that it can only charge one bank of batteries. Obviously, the oem Hatt setup is for two separate banks. So in order to use ONLY an outback and nothing else you either have to come up with a 32V battery combiner (which I could never find), or physically combine the two Hatt banks, which is what I did.

I used a regular batt switch and tied the two banks together through it so if I wanted, I could decombine them just by turning the switch off. The old Lamarche charger is still in place and I could decombine the batt banks, turn on the lamarche, and have totally separate charging. I have never done that. In fact, if the old Lamarche didn't weigh 145 lbs, I would have removed it but it's too heavy for me to do alone. Maybe next month I'll recruit Jim R to help me do that!

Now, IMHO, this is important re combining the banks: Hatt set them up so if the house bank was drained, the start bank could still start the engs and generator. Obviously, it is theoretically possible, with my banks combined, to drain the batts sufficiently where the engs can't start. That has never happened but it IS possible. In our case, our 16kw NL generator uses a 12v starter so we have a 2 battery 12v bank for that purpose. SO, even if we did drain the mains, the genny can still be started and charge the main banks. If we did serious offshore work at anchor fishing or whatever, I would NOT combine the banks. Sure, the genny can still start/charge the mains but offshore I would be concerned that a situation might come up where I need the engs starting RIGHT NOW, not in 30-40 minutes.

Where we cruise, in the Chesapeake bay, I don't see it as an issue at all. If everything failed - both engines blow up, whatever, you just toss the FX55 Fortress over the side with 100 feet of chain and you'll be wherever that anchor sets until somebody helps you or global warming raises the water level enough lift the boat straight above it and (maybe) pull the anchor loose. :)

If our genny was oem and started from the 32v banks, I would also not combine the batt banks. So that might also be a consideration for folks. But I add again that with the banks combined and the boat on the hook just running on the inverter for 15-16 hours, the engines started instantly. Frankly, with the combined banks the starters spin more agressively than they ever did with separate banks.

Hope this is helpful...
 
Tucker,
I have the 3232. I like it, it works great, and I would put one in again.

I am not using the pass-thru or the charger, just the inverter. I have it set up just like a second generator with a slide breaker to use it as a power source to run the whole boat.

I bought mine at WMJ Marine online as they had the best price back then.

If you want to discuss it, send me a PM and I'll give you my cell number.
 
Thanks everyone! Sounds like this is the direction I'm going! I just need to figure out the current set-up and decide if I'm going to tie my battery banks together (which I'm leaning towards).

Here's the current set-up:
3 banks of Rolls 32V (for main engines and inverters)
2 Sentry 32V 30A Fero's
2 Inverters (name escapes me at the moment)
Isolation Transformer
2 50A voltage transformers (original Hatts)
2 Gel batteries (1 each for 20kw gensets)
2 Guest chargers (1 each for genset batteries)

Those that look at this may ask, "that's a nice set-up, why in the hell is he messing with it?". Well, basically the Sentry's are cooking my batteries. I'd rather use some new "smart" technology to assure the fortune I've got invested in 4 year old batteries - makes them last as long as possible. Plus, I'm having to fill these banks monthly (sometimes they're almost running dry).

In the end, I think I'm better off trashing the existing chargers/inverters (selling them is more realistic) and installing 2 Outback 3232's. If I end up tying the 3 banks together (I always have the 2 gensets available to charge the bank in the remote chance I run the bank completely down) - the 2nd Outback can be used as a back-up using a Guest switch.

Make sense? Something I'm missing? Also, I've done some research and WMJ is in fact still the cheapest price around. And yes, I'll definitely buy the "Mate".
 
"Make sense?" It does to me.
"Something I'm missing?" Nope, I'd do exactly the same thing - the poor charging/cooking of batts is one of the great things the Outback will prevent (not that other smart chargers can't do the same thing) but the Outback's ability to handle 32v AND be a superb inverter and charger makes it a great choice for 32v hatts.
 
based on all of the expert advice here, we installed a 3232 last fall with a new set of Deka batteries. bought the outback from http://www.dcbattery.com/
in miami. tied the banks together, and we have a second genset(thanks PO) with its own start battery. we don't have the mate, but don't use the inverter function as much as most. I have checked the batteries a couple of times, and they are staying happy with no noticeable water loss. good luck.
 
I have had one for about 2 years. GREAT machine! Definitely get the "Mate" control panel so you can adjust settings, see useage, etc. For instance, I put my 53MY in indoor storage in Key West for the hurricane season and could only plug in to a 15A regular plug to run my battery charger and a dehumidifier. The Outback can be adjudted to draw as little as 6 amps total, so I ran it down to 8 amps max to go with the 5 amp max dehumidifier to keep my batteries charged. I used the same feature to set it up to 29 amps max for batteries plus refrigerator on the 30 amp circuit it is on.

Doug
 
Doug makes a good point that I forgot: You can adjust the Outback to deliver any portion of the 30A pass through to batt charging/120vac output. The default is 19A for max charging and 11A for 120vac output.

The unit can vary all settings by 1/10th volt increments for everything you can imagine including totally variable voltages for charging any kind of battery and/or equalizing charges. Of course it has default settings but Outback recommend you get the recommendations from the specific battery maker as to optimum voltage for bulk, absorbtion, float, and EQ charging. But you must have the "Mate" to take advantage of all the capabilities.

Frankly, I think the reason the device is so good is that it was primarily designed (and mostly used) for remote power generating with wind/water/solar. As someone else mentioned, when I was looking into a new inverter initially, I found that those sites had, by far, the best and most thorough info. It was through these sites that I first discovered the Outback units.
 
Outback also has another device that plugs in to the inverter that will upgrade the MATE so that you can track the total amp/hrs used and remaining and also the total amp/hrs added through charging and some other features. I can't remember what they call it but JCRLAW added it to his Outback and said that he really liked it.
 
"Outback also has another device that plugs in to the inverter that will upgrade the MATE"

Oh NO! Dammit! :)
 
I have Outback's Flexnet DC (a battery/output monitor) that Sky is referring to. It's a great addition to the Outback inverter system. Very simple connection but you must also buy a hub (4 or 10 port) to connect it to the Mate. Be aware that the Flexnet monitor is polarity-sensitive and reversing the polarity will destroy both the monitor and the hub.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
38,156
Messages
448,741
Members
12,482
Latest member
UnaVida

Latest Posts

Trending content

Back
Top Bottom