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Older Cruisair Replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter Entonces
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Entonces

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Aug 4, 2016
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
Hey all,
Looking to replace my saloon Cruisair 16btu Split system (bad compresser we believe) w/ 2 self-contained units (1 air handler working and 1 not in saloon any way). My main & VIP cabin is a cruisair split as well and shares same Cruisair/Dometic pump & motor P1500. My question to you is can I wire any brand self contained to cruisair's pump relay box to utilize same pump if? If so or not, what self contained units brands can used or set up needed? Seems I will need to run water to & from (maybe 10' from PME room to saloon port aft & fwd where air handlers to be removed are as well as drain line. Thoughts?
 
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Posted before and seen a lot of views but no response so re-posting. Thanks for any input.
 
Hi

The problem is cooling water. finding a suitable pump to lift cooling water 10ft. most AC pump
are centrifugal pump would have problems doing that. but it could be done. it would require a pump with approximate 30psi @ 600 to 1200 gph flow.

good luck

Henry

PS I think it would be easier to replace the compressor in your existing unit.
 
You need dedicated pumps for the new units at the salon level.
 
Any unit that can send the signal to the relay box will work.

Water flow should be ok. I used to have a temporary 16k self contained in the saloon (forward) and th March pump in the ER had no problem sending raw water there in addition to the condensers in the ER
 
Hi

The problem is cooling water. finding a suitable pump to lift cooling water 10ft. most AC pump
are centrifugal pump would have problems doing that. but it could be done. it would require a pump with approximate 30psi @ 600 to 1200 gph flow.

good luck

Henry

PS I think it would be easier to replace the compressor in your existing unit.

Henry, thanks for response as well as others. Pump is a P1500BXT 1320 gph so plenty of push there. You think would be better to replace compressor? $500 plus labor and R22 would bring it (I estimate 1k)? Unit is older and hope not to get into the nickle & dime scenario (more like $100's) but trying to find new condenser unit without changing out air handler (unless go w/ R410A which can be used w/ R22 instead) is in the 3K range. I was looking at 2 Self-contained units 9000BTU for about as much. I guess it's the old 'Catch R22' (pun) scenario!!!
 
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As mentioned earlier in the thread, I used a self contained for a couple of years pending redoing the entire system on my boat. I didn't like it. I don't care how quiet self contained have supposedly become, they are not that quiet unless you can really insulate the space and have longer turn and supply ducting to lower the noise.

There is a reason self contained are only used on small boats...

Also, a pair of 9k units is not going to cool a 53 saloon. You need no less than two 16k

If your air handlers have been replaced in the past and are not original to the boat you are probably better off replacing the one bad compressor
 
Henry, thanks for response as well as others. Pump is a P1500BXT 1320 gph so plenty of push there. You think would be better to replace compressor? $500 plus labor and R22 would bring it (I estimate 1k)? Unit is older and hope not to get into the nickle & dime scenario (more like $100's) but trying to find new condenser unit without changing out air handler (unless go w/ R410A which can be used w/ R22 instead) is in the 3K range. I was looking at 2 Self-contained units 9000BTU for about as much. I guess it's the old 'Catch R22' (pun) scenario!!!


most common AC coolant pumps push a lot of flow (gpm) but only are able to product about
8-10 psi of pressure the pressure drop of approx 4 psi to lift 10 leaves you with only 4-6 psi the pump flow at those pressure will not be adequate. it would work but not too well and the compressor will have a shorter life due to high temperatures and pressures and less BTU output.

good luck

henry
 
You don't need pressure for AC raw water you need flow

Typically on a 53, the condensers are mounted on a rack in the ER, with the top units about 5' above the pump

If installing a self contained in the saloon, the height is only going to be 7', 8' at the most if the unit is high above the floor

Here is the flow curve for the march TE-5C-MD i have on my boat and pretty much standard for any installation in the 60-72k BTU range. Flow at 5' is 15.5 GPM and only drops to 14GPM at 8'. 10% difference. Non issue

http://www.marchpump.com/site/files/966/160246/526890/750115/TE-5-MD-AC-Curve.pdf

I m sure if you look up the specs for the cruise air / oberdorfer pumps you will see similar numbers. Unless the metal impeller is a couple of years old and starting to crumble :)
 
As mentioned earlier in the thread, I used a self contained for a couple of years pending redoing the entire system on my boat. I didn't like it. I don't care how quiet self contained have supposedly become, they are not that quiet unless you can really insulate the space and have longer turn and supply ducting to lower the noise.

There is a reason self contained are only used on small boats...

Also, a pair of 9k units is not going to cool a 53 saloon. You need no less than two 16k

If your air handlers have been replaced in the past and are not original to the boat you are probably better off replacing the one bad compressor

Wow, 2 16K? Might explain why previous owner said he did not know why second air handler was not working in saloon (I'll check when I get off my ship next week if lines are even run back to ER). Theres only the 2 cruisair units in ER and 3rd is in Gen compartment (w/ own thru hull pump) for bow. Looking like 4th unit was removed prior and just never replaced then leaving the 1 16K in saloon. You guys gave me some great input. Looks like I most likely be installing the compressor and think about getting another split condenser for the other air handler after trouble shooting it.
 

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