Oil samples??

[madhatter1]

How accurate are these? I'm not so sure. Both my engines got flagged for x, y, and z earlier this year. Changed oil to mechanics recommended Chevron Delo 100 (had been using the NAPA oil) and took samples 35 hours or so later. Most of that time ran at 1800-1900. Suddenly they are "healed and healthy". No flags. Below are the old/new numbers.
Port
Iron 119-17
Chrome 6-1
Tin 16-1
Soot 50-30

STB
Silicone 24-20 (at 20 no longer flagged as an issue)
Tin 15-2
Iron 215-25
Chrome 34-2
Aluminum 35-2
Soot 56-26.

Tranny's show good. Generator (2003 13KW Onan with 1600 hours) shows sodium flagged at 221 and Aluminum flagged at 33. Oil (use Rotella synthetic blend) always looks great on the stick plus mid year I do a quick change without changing the filter. Generators cruise at highway miles unlike the mains running uphill everywhere they go. I really don't think there is anything to worry about. Samples are done by CAT.

Installing new gen this winter. Think I'll send a sample on that at 100 hours and see what they come up with. Thoughts?

 

[JD5652]

My experience is the trend matters MUCH MORE than any single sample.

I agree with using the Delo 100. Not sure about the specs on the NAPA brand.

I would continue to sample and pay attention to the overall trend.

 

[Sea Horse]

Oil analysis and results I have found out are in many cases up to the person doing the testing. When I lived in NC sent my Cummins samples to Gregory Poole the NC Caterpillar dealer who had a lab. Found out when questioning warning notes then next test perfect results that they had to build their own data base for my engines because Cummins wouldn't give them base lines for analysis. Basically the person doing the testing was left to his or her own interpretation of results. When I went back and looked at previous test results I found that on one test things were flagged as abnormal and next had basically same results and was considered normal. I've lost a lot of respect for oil samples results. I would recommend you really compare several tests and just compare results from at least three to set a pattern. Also use same testing facility so you eliminate as much variation as possible.

 

[madhatter1]

NAPA oil is NP75118 and rated for DD 2 strokes. Is the Delo that much better and samples are truly better? Cost is nearly the same and I only want to use what is best regardless of cost.

 

[rsmith]

My experience is the trend matters MUCH MORE than any single sample.

I agree with using the Delo 100. Not sure about the specs on the NAPA brand.

I would continue to sample and pay attention to the overall trend.

What he said and what the other gentleman said about how the sample was taken.
First the sample needs to be taken hot with all the stuff mixed up. Remember a lot of the metals will sink to the bottom of a cold engine and the sample won’t be uniform. Second the sample needs to be taken after the draining has started so you don’t get contamination off the bottom of the engine. Third the sample’s need to be taken on an exact time between samples to be effective.

 

[madhatter1]

What tools do I need to do the samples myself? Samples were taken cold after sitting a while.

 

[Captain Ralph]

My experience is the trend matters MUCH MORE than any single sample.

I agree with using the Delo 100. Not sure about the specs on the NAPA brand.

I would continue to sample and pay attention to the overall trend.

The correct DD oil from NAPA P/n 75118 is a great CF-2 oil. I recall Amalie makes it.
Used and sold a lot of it.

During my shopping, I made an agreement with the local Mobil Oil distributor.
Now using Mobil Delvac 1240, thought to be the same oil DDC sells for their CF-2.

Of course Shell Rotella T1 is a great oil sometimes on sale at Wally World.

 

[Captain Ralph]

What tools do I need to do the samples myself? Samples were taken cold after sitting a while.

Cat makes a great SOS sample kit.
Each kit comes with a fresh draw tube.
Draw your sample when hot and not off the bottom of the pan.

https://www.cat.com/en_US/support/maintenance/sos-services.html

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Were the samples taken at similar hours? IF one was taken at 100hrs and one at 35, that could explain the difference.

 

[madhatter1]

Different hours. I am learning that it is up to me to make sure filters are changed, samples taken properly, and monitor everything else. Even if you have a good mechanic you have to monitor all situations.

 

[madhatter1]

Had samples pulled after a performance sea trial. About 100 hours on the oil. Pulled while engines were hot and run up to full RPM. Both came back with red flags including "oil not changed". I know it was changed 100 hours ago. Files too big to upload but I took pix. I don't get it. These were owned by Dave Disesia. The starboard was a new replacement and the port was inframed by Dave. I am caring for them as he instructed me. The only difference is he was changing the oil at every 50 hours and I'm doing it at 100 which is about once a year. The boat gets used often, does not sit other than this last Fall due to the storm situation.

Both engines run great, start instantly, have only a very light puff of smoke that clears in 3 seconds or so on cold start. They are loaded properly and make full RPM (2370, 2380). Both have new turbos, clean heat exchangers, no exhaust manifold leaks, and get a yearly performance sea trial with my mechanic once a year. Why would the oil samples be so bad with preventive maintainance, constant use, no coolant leaks, etc, and run loaded properly at 1800-1900 RPM? I don't know what to think.

 

[madhatter1]

Starboard Edit- I can't get any non blurry pictures. How is that done?

 

[madhatter1]

Uploaded the PDF's after cutting content out to make the file small enough

 

[Play'N Hooky Too]

It has everything to do with how you collect your samples.

I can see where it might be a good tool to assess the condition of engines in a boat that I was thinking about buying, but for one that I already own, I'm not sure what value it adds other than increasing my anxiety level. If the results come back flagged, what exactly am I going to do about it? I'm using the right oil, changing it and the filters on a routine schedule, I'm using the only diesel that is readily available in my area, .....what else can be done? Not trying to be a wise-ass, just wondering.

 

[Phasma2128]

The mechanic I had 5 years ago had me crane the boat into the water to run the temp up and bring the engines RPMs up before taking samples. The marina didn’t agree but the mechanic made sense to me.

I use delo 100 in my DD 6v92’s

 

[madhatter1]

It has everything to do with how you collect your samples.

I can see where it might be a good tool to assess the condition of engines in a boat that I was thinking about buying, but for one that I already own, I'm not sure what value it adds other than increasing my anxiety level. If the results come back flagged, what exactly am I going to do about it? I'm using the right oil, changing it and the filters on a routine schedule, I'm using the only diesel that is readily available in my area, .....what else can be done? Not trying to be a wise-ass, just wondering.

Not taken as a wise ass response. In fact it’s probably how I will roll. It’s just hard to believe to completely different engines (one correctly rebuilt, one a new replacement) are tearing themselves apart all while living the good life and cared for. Going to just ask my mechanic what the tell tale early signs are an 8-92 is starting to hurt and how long after that is rebuild time. No way we are tearing into perfectly happy engines to explore so what’s the point. I’ll throw in a cheap mid season placebo and pull out 5 gallons of oil and replace with new. Super easy to do with the pump.

If anyone here knows how to even read into the reports let me know what you think. Not holding anybody to anything but sure would like opinions from all the Detroit experience here.

 

[Phasma2128]

Can’t tell you how to read it specifically but I do know that different parts of the engines are made out of different metals. If one or two metals are outside of normal it may indicate wear on a part of the engine and may indicate a need for further evaluation

 

[Briankinley2004]

Uploaded the PDF's after cutting content out to make the file small enough

I got some high readings on my 55C when I first bought it. Had same recommendation as yours. Change oil and sample again in 15 hours. I did that and the readings returned to normal and I never bothered with the samples again. I was told by the mechanic to draw the samples through the dipstick tube and not through the drain hose. He said all kinds of junk gets into the hose and can throw off the readings. I know the samples are important for finding leaking coolers, etc. but I am like you. There is no way I would tear down and rebuild a well running engine based on an oil sample.

 

[madhatter1]

Think I'll close my eyes, put my fingers in my ears and yell lalalalalala!

Seriously though just pay close attention to what is going on day to day. If either ever needs to get opened up it will get the full Monty and then closed back up. I can't sweat this. Bahamas are calling.

I would like to point out nothing noticable has changed at all since I first started this worrysome thread.

 

[motoryacht lover]

I had my mains oil sample last year and the came back with warning and the yard is saying time to rebuild. My samples were done by motor check in Rivera Beach. I read somewhere that Motor Check was having issues with contaminated samples. We resembled with Kelly tractor ?? And the samples came back clean. I would keep sampling at every change and go from there. I would not let it worry you to much.