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non skid

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67hat34c

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going to be repainting top side, Awl-grip, looking for ideas on non-skid. was considering using glass bead, alot finer than blasting sand. think that is too rough. was going to spray a coat of Awl-grip then sprinkle the glass bead then spray another 2 coats.
 
I've used Interlux's non-skid additive on 3 projects in a very similar fashion to your idea and am impressed with it's longevity...

CMP
 
I've shot a lot of Awlgrip non-skid, this is how I do it. US paint makes non-skid particles both fine and coarse and by mixing the two about 60/40 makes for a nice skid which will be slightly rough but bikini friendly. I mix the paricles into the paint and shoot it thru the gun making alternating patterns. The particles go right thru the gun and then paint builds up on them leaving a consistent texture professional non-skid. Mike
 
That's interesting. I've never sprayed non-skid and would have thought that it would be easier to roll it on because you don't have to worry about any overspray so less masking/concern for other boats in the marina would be needed.

But perhaps I've been doing it the hard way. Application-wise, spraying would certainly be faster. I'd be reluctant to subject a good HVLP gun to non-skid but a cheap Sears gun might be just the ticket!

Maybe I'll try it next time.
 
what is your rolling process. cant sand between coats so do roll it without reducer and recoat as soon as it is tack free?
 
I can't claim to be any kind of non-skid expert; I've only applied it 3-4 times that I can recall. Only once did I need a second coat. I waited until it the first was dry (next day) and put on another coat.

I just put a strip of the wide blue 3m masking tape around the areas concerned and roll it on. No other masking was necessary. That's the reason it never occurred to me to spray - even though the actual application might be faster, I'd expect the total time spent to me longer because of the need for extensive masking and the set-up and subsequent cleaning of the paint gun.

But as I said, I might be wrong about that.
 
I have done it both ways which is better depends on the job. Spraying you have to worry about overspray. Rolling and tipping takes longer to apply but you don't have to cover everything. One thing is rolling and tipping when you start and end with the brush it changes the non skid a little. So I found apply with the roller then use a heat gun without the heat off so its like a blower and pass it across the surface and it pops the bubbles and then let it flow out. You can't tell the difference between rolling and spraying when done like this. As in post above use the non skid that they sell and mix it right in it stays suspended in the paint so it goes on even. Coarse or fine is a personal preference I have even mix the two which gives a nice affect. Remember the more you put in works better BUT it is harder too Clean!
 
Why would you tip non-skid after rolling it? The only reason you'd roll and tip is to get a smooth surface. In the case of non-skid, smooth is the farthest thing from anyone's mind...

CMP
 
dont know why but i checked with paint supplier and they recommended the same thing. they said back roll it with dry roller, very lightly. they also said spraying is good, comes out better. use a large tip. use same tip as with high build primer.
 
I've done non skid a few times with roller and it never comes out as uniform as I'd like. Ok, but not pro looking. I believe the best way is to paint an area, then disperse non skid from a big salt shaker or equivalent while the paint is still good and tacky. But I learned of that after my jobs were complete.
Often the two part paints allow recoating within 48 or 72 hours without sanding so applying the final coat is not a problem a day or two later. Tipping on non skid doesn't seem to be worth the effort. In fact, especially on horizontal surfaces, if you are extra light with the roller when finishing, I've avoided tipping altogether and cannot see any imperfections.
 
I have rolled Interlux Interdeck one-part with much success. It must be shaken well, but it comes out thick and ready to roll with a mohair roller. I always re-roll each area evenly after the inital coating roll to get it smooth, but it lays down as even as I could imagine. Very easy to work with and has held up for 4+ yrs so far. Re-coated recently to freshen up with just pressure washing, then scuff padding it down. Rolled on one coat and it looks fantastic. No mixing of anything, unless you wish. I made the last quart stretch by mixing with Interlux Brightside and it came out beautiful, added a little shine but still excellent non-skid qualities. Two-part products would surely last longer but with both fine and coarse particles to mix with reducers, etc there is just too much room for error for a do-it-yourselfer like me!
 
You tip because when you roll it leaves little air bubbles behind and that is why you alway have to tip not to get it smooth it already is. So that is why instead I use the heat gun just on the air setting to pop the bubbles. If you don't get those bubbles popped they will stay there and catch all the dirt and look like Hell.
 
I roll out Awlgrip with their nonskid additive, GripTex, mixed in- I just throw some in the tray. A little goes a long way, it is easy to use too much. It has to be stirred frequently because the beads try to settle out. Maybe I'm not picky enough, but it looks fine to me and stays on. I tried to use their flattening additive last year but it was so thick I couldn't get it stirred up and just gave up. It all came out fine anyway. I am going to sand and reroll the decks this year, at least on the main deck. As long as you sand it a bit and wash the deck off with their reducer, it will stick fine.
 
We have rolled the decks with Imron and non-skid additive many times and it comes out very nice. My brother has become an expert at it. As usual with paint, you can go as crazy as you want to on prep work. He's a fanatic so he goes at it pretty hard. But basically just sand/scuff, tape the edges, wipe down with a good prepping solvent, mix the non-skid into the paint and roll away. We usually do the cockpit and gunnels at least every 2 seasons to keep it fresh looking.

As Jim said, the key is to have someone keep stirring the mixture so that the additive does not settle. Oh, and I think my bro did use a flattening additive recently and liked it. Be sure to pick the correct roller for the job. One year we had a reddish roller bleed and turn the decks pink. Prepped and painted twice that year.

Also, be mindful of dew point, humidity, and the use of your air conditioning during the drying period. Seems that condensate can really screw up your efforts and those staterooms under the bow deck can get pretty cool compared to the outside temps.
 
Jim, IMHO stay away from the flattening agent, it WILL flatten the shine which is easy on the eyes on a bright afternoon but cleaning will become a royal bitch. Dirt, grime, fish guts, etc. just seem to attach to the flattened paint. I sprayed my Lake & Bay skiff years ago with the agent and the only way to clean it was with a pressure cleaner! It laughed at soft scrub and bleach. Just My $.02
 
Mike36C .02 cents is worth a lot more then that, he is so right about it being a royal PITA to clean. I also say GO FOR THE SHINE it cleans easy :)
 
I personaly like the meathod of one coat down and sprinkle the additive with a shaker, and then two coats on top. The reason I like this is because I can use a larger particle and get a thicker coat of color over the top. If you add it to the paint you never get more than one coat of color over each individual particle. In your high trafic areas it wont take very long for the nonskid particle to come through after the "one" coat of paint wears off. Also I try to look for a non-skid additive that's close the the color I'm using. Otherwise you will have little gray or brown dots all over the deck when the paint starts to wear through. And it will!! Keep in mind when you choose the grit of non-skid when you look at it in the can it will be 3 times the size when covered in paint. First time I did it I thought I was getting a medium sized grit but covered in paint it was so rough it would shred the bottom right out of your bathing suit.
 
Well most of our boats have white decks can't amagine a dark deck and all the non skid I have used is White. Mix it with the paint I always do two coats if rolling and holds up for many years.
 
As Rufus has also asked, how do you prep the existing nonskid? :confused:
 
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