No Voltage at Port Engine Starter Switch

[Vincentc]

The day after a successful day cruise, I attempted to start the engines. The Stbd engine started just fine. When I turned the ignition key for the Port engine nothing happened. No alarm buzzer, no response to the starter button, nothing.

Since then I've determined:

The port engine bank has full charge.
The large fuse for the port battery cable is good, there is voltage on both ends of the fuse.
When I move the battery parallel switch to stbd, I can hear the solenoid engage. When I move the switch to port, there is there is no sound.
There is good voltage going into the stbd ignition key.
There is no voltage at the input to the port ignition key.

The neutral safety switch does not prevent the stbd buzzer from sounding when I turn that key, whether in or out of gear.

I have not checked the rotary electrical switch. I assume but cannot tell if voltage at the fuse indicates power is passing through the rotary switch.

Lilly Marie is a 1983 43DC with 671ti's. The two battery banks are midship.
The port battery bank only provides starting for the port engine. The stbd battery bank starts the stbd engine and is the house bank as well.

My review of the electrical diagrams I have for the boat did not reveal anything that helped me identify something else to check.

Thank you for your kind advice.

Best Regards

 

[Boatsb]

There is a feed to the switch that energizes the parallel and other items on the dash. Its usually run to both the bridge and the lower helm.

Do you have the same issue on both upper and lower stations?

If so the feed may be on the starter lug where the positive battery cable attaches.

 

[SeaEric]

An identical issue on a 1991 Hatt 52 CPMY ended up being a small glass fuse hidden in an electrical box in the ER with a cover on it that required removing screws to access. If there is anything at all like that on your boat, look in there.

 

[Vincentc]

Scott and Eric,
thanks.
I've never tried to start the engines from the flybridge and haven't checked to see if those key switches are energized. In fact I don't know if I have keys to those switches. I will take a look at the positive connection to this starter.
Access to the electrical panel is via the hanging closet in the master state room.
There's 2 solenoids close to the deck apparently related to the parallel switch. There are red wires, perhaps 8 gauge leading to each solenoid. The wire leading to the starboard solenoid has voltage, while the equivalent wire leading to the port solenoid does not. Both wires appeared to lead to covered junction boxes located on the bulkhead just above the solenoids.
I will take a look in the engine room for a fuse panel. I don't recall ever seeing one in my past times in the engine room.

 

[GJH]

Don't know your model of boat, but there should be a fuse somewhere between the solenoid and the start switches. Trace the small wire feeding the solenoid.

 

[Vincentc]

It appears that voltage on both sides of the main fuse does not rule out the battery switch as the culprit. The fuse has voltage no matter if the switch is on or off.

From my reading of the Hatteras electrical diagram, the fuse controls input from the battery charger. This finding seems contrary to my experience a few years ago where the boat would not start until I replaced that same fuse which had failed.

I checked for voltage at the port engine starter and there was none. The same test on the stbd engine indicated full voltage.

It is hard to get to the back of the switch but my voltmeter indicated full voltage on the input cable and none on the output cable with the switch on.

I ordered a HD 600 amp Blue Sea switch and will see if that fixes the problem.

Scott appears to have given good advice regarding my checking for voltage at the starter.

Thanks

 

[lake of the woods]

Vincentc,

Did you check to ensure the transmission shifter was in neutral? At both stations?

Did not do that once and kick my ass a few hours later.

Mark
Lake of the Woods
1989 40 DC

 

[Vincentc]

Problem Solved.

I replaced the main battery switch and I now have voltage to the port ignition switch.

Going back over lessons learned.

The large 250 amp fuse next to the main switch is upstream of the switch. According to the Hatteras schematic, the fuse covers the cable from the AC battery charger.

A few years ago I had an identical problem where the port engine would not start. I tested that fuse, it was bad, and when I replaced it, the engine started.

When essentially the same thing occurred this time, I tested the fuse, it was good and I assumed the problem could not be with the switch.

Scott's advice to check for voltage at the starter terminals led me to determine that the problem was upstream of the starter. Checking voltage at the switch input and output confirmed a problem with the switch.

The neutral safety switch prevents the engine from starting but does not prevent the alarm buzzer from sounding when the ignition key is turned.

Conclusion:

Try not to assume anything. Carefully review and consider the factory plans.

Start from the battery and test each link in the connection going downstream.

Thanks for the kind advice.

 

[Cricket]

We carry a jump cable that's long enough to jump anything out in the ER for exactly this type of event.