New Purchaser needs Advise.

[Captned]

Buy it for $150K and join the club. You can always drop new Cummins in it. Thats a good buy just to be on this forum!


Cheers!

Captned
MBMM

 

[SportFishCruising]

Yes Captned, that's what I was thinking. $150K is really just the initiation fee for being a full pledge member of this club and I get the boat for free really
Any members here really close to Falmouth Harbour/Cape Cod, MA that might be able to take a preliminary look for me after the shrinkwrap comes off?

This is my 15th post, so I thought I would celebrate by posting a photo of her!

 

[REBrueckner]

Boat looks good via photos. I'll likely be passing Falmouth around early July in my 1972 Hatt YF if she has not sold and I might be able to check out the boat if you have not seen it. Find out from the broker what offers have been received...and how long the boat has been for sale....I'd offer $125K or so if no recent offers had been received...and advise that unless something major were discovered during survey I would not nickel and dime the seller.

Also consider how you will use the boat....many annual hours at high cruise speeds and RPM??...maybe not the best boat for you without engine work; more modest cruise at a typical 100 hours annually....likely just fine, even if the engines are not perfect....

Ask for maintenance records...see what has been done year by year...yard maintained by itelf is meaningless...see if anyone knows what cruise speed and rpm the prior owner ran the boat...that's the best surrogate for fuel consumption as mentioned here by sonny. The engine room appearance reflects typical yard care...mechanicals w/o any attention to cosmetics and the age of the owner would explain minor cosmetics needing some attention. In photo 30 it looks like the near port turbo has been either painted or replaced; the distant one is clearly more "used"...no big deal, but worth comparing with mtc records.

If the rub rail stress cracks show no dented rub rail, then the cracks are merely superficial corner type stress cracks and are irrelevant....My old Hatt has a few here and there....

 

[saltshaker]

150K for this boat would be a very fair deal providing there are no major issues. Make sure this is the right model for you before you invest too much time or money. Have you been on any other Hatts yet? The 48 has a nice layout and this boat has the preferred teak interior. The draft is 5'5" which is a bit deep for a boat this size. Make sure that isn't a problem for you. You picked a good model for the money. You may want to look at the 45C series II, 46C series I (stay away from the 90's 46C), and the 52C. If you make an appointment to go see the boat, I would look at the one in CT and in NJ also. The NJ boat has a tower but these 2 would be good to see for comparison.

You might want to check this one out.
http://www.yachtworld.com/core/list...rl=&hosturl=redlinemarine&&ywo=redlinemarine&
This boat is owned by a broker who has had her for almost 2 years. She was highly customized and is in incredible shape. Previous owner poured a ton of money into her. Big problem with this boat is she has only 1 stateroom. Most 53C buyers want the 3 stateroom layout. 2 stateroom boats are harder to sell and as far as I know this is the only single stateroom 53C out there. If it would work for you, it could be a great boat. He should be open to offers. I saw this boat a few years ago and could take a look at her for you. She is in a marina near my club. She looks like new from the outside.

 

[thoward]

$150k is the ante. I'm not sure of the costs up there but down here you could expect another $40k per year in dockage, insurance and maintanance.

 

[SportFishCruising]

Saltshaker...wow..the 53' you linked to is gorgeous and in my budget. I sent you a PM.
Thoward, I started a new thread called 'Understanding Costs of Ownership' under 'Everything Else', for putting together a budget. $40K sounds awfully high.

 

[spartonboat1]

The problem with those engines is they are cranking out a lot of HP for their size. This translates to heat which if not managed correctly, means engine failure. They can last a long time if taken care of, and used regularly. I have seen them go 3000 hours and have heard of major failures in under 1000 hours. Small problems cause major damage because these engines are running on the edge. A fellow forum member's father has these engines in his boat. First failure was around 1200 hours and last season they needed a major due to an overheat, around 1500 hours. The engine had to come out of the boat and the total bill for the 1 engine was around 30K. If the engines are tired and you don't suffer a failure, you could get them rebuilt for less, maybe 2-3K per hole or 16K-24K per engine. You might get a better deal up in the Lakes than what we pay but 24K per engine is a fair estimate. The 48 is very heavy and a bit slow compared to the competition. Decide if speed is important to you. You'll have to run her hard to cruise 22kts which means less hours between overhauls.

I also think that 8K to paint the hull is very cheap. A first rate job will cost double that. we're not trying to scare you off. Just making sure you know what your looking at.

Cuz I look 'senior'/'wise' (I am now past 3 factorial decades), younger (30's and 40's) people will stop at marina's and I ask my opinion. One such conversation was with a 40's something guy owner of 53 or so Hatt whose says, "yeah, I just had both engines rebuilt at a cost of $50k". (ouch I thought). He follows up "is that normal?". I said the price was fairly typical ($3k/hole), but the maintenance and how hard they were pushed played a role in the hours. I told him I thought the 8v92's were good for about 1,500 hours (my best guess). My old 6-71's show 2,000 hours on the clocks, but who knows what they really have. One smokes, the other was re-kitted, and starts clear.

I remember a very old GM Diesel/Detroit Diesel concept that the engine life was directly proportional to the fuel burned, since confirmed by another HOF member.

 

[MikeP]

"I remember a very old GM Diesel/Detroit Diesel concept that the engine life was directly proportional to the fuel burned"

True of any engine...

 

[REBrueckner]

Without a doubt total fuel consumption that is the best measure of engine use/abuse.

That information is rarely available so the next best approximation is to ask an owner what speed (knots) he normally cruises.....and separately as part of another discussion ask what RPM he normally cruises.....they usually don't match...cruise speed is usually exaggerated, RPM is either understated or the owner doesn't know, and hourly fuel use is also usually understated...you can compare responses with owners here if you don't know how the answers relate.

 

[SportFishCruising]

Unfortunately, the owner of the boat is deceased but I have requested the broker to get any maintenance records available.

 

[MikeP]

I would suggest that you be PREPARED for the possibility of annual boat costs as described in previous posts but IF you do all your own work and maintenance, the annual costs to maintain the boat itself are, IMHO, fairly low.

Insurance and slip/electrical, whatever, fees are what they are. But here's an example. If you pay someone to de-winterize the two diesels on a 53MY at our previous marina in Long Island, it costs 600 bucks. If you do it yourself, it is nearly free, other than your labor. Most of your work will be checks of things, depending on what you did for winterizing. You may need some new zincs, for example but the actual cost of "parts" for this is minimal.

Sure, if something breaks, it can be quite expensive but a lot of what typically costs money on a boat is routine maint and part replacement and labor is the big expense.

There is nothing on these boats that is seriously complicated - no electronic controls, etc that cost a fortune to replace or troubleshoot. Certainly, you need to have a decent mechanical aptitude but given that, everything is pretty straightforward. Yeah, though it's all straightforward some of it can be a bit hard to access!

The greatest annual expense we have had on the boat since we bought it 5 years ago is, by far, slip fees. THe highest actual costs on the boat itself were changes we chose to make - new countertops, etc. We put in Amtico flooring ourselves in a portion of the salon, and throughout the galley and the passageway so it cost us the price of the flooring and adhesive. IF we had paid for the installation, it would have cost us in vicinity of 5-6k according to estimates at the time. We paid around 900 for the materials.

So my point is that IF you do this stuff yourself, the actual expense of owning the boat becomes primarily the place to keep it. Lot's of folks do a little of both - some of the work themselves, other stuff, like a DD engine tune up might be left to a mechanic. BUT, DDs are not complicated and a tuneup, with a few proper tools (which are not expensive) AND the DD service manual, is pretty simple though it may take a day or even more per engine the first time

Cleaning/flushing HE/intercoolers? The price of a few gaskets (or make your own) and a bottle of Muriatic Acid or whatever you prefer. Again, it's nearly all labor...

 

[SportFishCruising]

Well....this particular 48' Hatteras Convertible SOLD while I am still in the midst of selling my house and doing due diligence. My quest continues.

 

[Canuck Dennis]

Enjoy the adventure and learning curve, we spent 2 yrs looking before we bought our 70 ft Stephens and one year looking before buying our 43 Hatteras, it's lots of fun and the travelling around etc is a great way to see the Country.

 

[SportFishCruising]

From one Canuck to another, thanks Dennis, you are making me look at it the right way; it is interesting and fun learning about these boats and my wants.

It also seems the marketplace still has good activity because the following boat is currently under 'contract' and being evaluated by another buyer and several others were SOLD too during my inquries.

...You might want to check this one out.
http://www.yachtworld.com/core/list...rl=&hosturl=redlinemarine&&ywo=redlinemarine& end quote]

Right now, I am pretty excited about this boat,
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/198...e-New-Style-1994422/Sarasota/FL/United-States
Any body here know her, in the area or wish to comment?

 

[TopHattandTails]

At the risk of adding more options - here is a super clean boat in my marina: http://www.yachtworld.com/core/list...m=broker&&hosturl=lakeandbay&&ywo=lakeandbay&

 

[Spellbound]

The boat is (or was) located at the Field Club in Sarasota. The owner is Steve Voight JR. Check information for the Law Firm phone # of Voight & Voight and talk with him. Don't know details about the boat. Good guy, long time Sarasota family. his father has done some work for me in the past.

 

[Spellbound]

Wrong spelling on Last name --- should be Voigt. Steven F. Voigt Jr.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

I am considering buying a 1988 Hatteras 48 Convertable, yard maintained since new and I have a few questions as this is my first purchase of a boat this size with twin deisels.
(1) I am amazed at the costs of rebuilds and replacements of these engines from information gained during research. This boat has Detroit Diesels, Engine Model 892 - 735HP with 1500 original hours. Of course I will get a survey, but assuming the engines pass it & an oil survey, what might be my possible maintenance/service schedule and costs be up to 2500+ hours?
Also, broker says the engine room needs detailing. What does this entail, what are the associated costs and is it something I can do myself?
(2) The boat looks beautiful and clean, inside and out, except the broker reports stress cracks and dings aft near rub rails, port & starboard, from pivoting off pilings at slip. He states they are not serious, only cosemetic, not noticed by the casual observer. Any comments about how severe this could get? I asked him to forward pictures but boat is currently shrinkwrapped, he will see what he can do.
(3) Broker also states the hull is clean and shiney as in photos in ad, but that painting the hull gunnel down to bootstripe would cover dings and make boat look new. A Local yard quoted around $8,000 which he says is expensive. Why is painting the hull so expensive and must it be done professionally or is something I might be able to do? Painting the hull will have to wait until I'm an expert handler, otherwise I would cry when I ding the pilings myself while learning.
The broker has known the boat since new and sold it to the now deceased owner. Any standard recommended questions I should be asking him prior to making a long trip, lining up a survey and sea trial?
Any input will be helpful. This is a big step up in boating adventure for me and I intend to Live Aboard on the fresh water of the Great Lakes.

I didnt know where else to insert this, and here seems as good as any... Ppat and I were dock walking this morning and came across a 1979 46C as described here. I noticed "print through" of glass mat around the cockpit door. Is this indicative of a repair, lousy gelcoat , or is this a cored hull with issues? Hmm Let me know as I have a pal thats interested in a boat like this, and of course, I extolled the virtues of Hatteras construction and dont wanna look any more the ass than I already do!! ws

 

[bdewar]

Check this boat out it is in RI. I have been on the boat. it has some updating, New Paint, Cummins QSM 11 Engines and is well maintained. I have been on the boat a couple of times. The boat is still used regularly.


http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/198...ines-2004-2062992/Pt.-Judith/RI/United-States

 

[REBrueckner]

"I noticed "print through" of glass mat around the cockpit door. Is this indicative of a repair, lousy gelcoat .."

It reflects manual hand layup cosmetic "imperfections" often visible in Hatteras's of that decade..maybe later years too....It means nothing...My 1972 48 YF had them also, usually visible if you got your eye close to the surface and looks towards available light...My guess is that the mat ended up a touch too close to the surface..as if it floated in the resin. Later techniques seem to have overcome this but I don't know what changed.

I know from fiberglass work I've done myself over the years that fiberglass cloth and mat takes a few minutes to "wet out"...to absorb the resin. Otherwise it's light and often tends to float.....Once it does it tends to stay "submerged" reasonably well but I always had to go back over an area and recheck...Other woven materials absorb immediately and can be a bit easier to work....I forget the name of the one I ended up using more often as the Defender catelogue described it as more flexible than glass mat...a nice idea when layering fiberglass over wood...