My 1st Hatt - 1984 52C

[dar636]

Welcome to the best website out there, the stuff I learn here is impressive. Great looking boat, your posts bring back memories... I started with the heads too.

 

[JuiceClark]

Welcome to the best website out there, the stuff I learn here is impressive. Great looking boat, your posts bring back memories... I started with the heads too.

Thanks. Yeah, this site is already saving me piles of money and time. The old posts in the 'Service Questions' threads have really been great.


Tonight's project is to put new Nav lights on her. The boat deserves 'em. These Hella 3NM LED nav lights say they're good up to 33 volts. Do you believe it?

I'm a little skeptical. If they fry, they're going back to the wholesaler with a request for a full refund.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HELLA-MARI...LED-PRO-STARBOARD-LAMP-WHITE-3NM/254845712168

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Thanks. Yeah, this site is already saving me piles of money and time. The old posts in the 'Service Questions' threads have really been great.


Tonight's project is to put new Nav lights on her. The boat deserves 'em. These Hella 3NM LED nav lights say they're good up to 33 volts. Do you believe it?

I'm a little skeptical. If they fry, they're going back to the wholesaler with a request for a full refund.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HELLA-MARI...LED-PRO-STARBOARD-LAMP-WHITE-3NM/254845712168

Trouble is a normal full or underway charge is more like 37 volts.

 

[JuiceClark]

Trouble is a normal full or underway charge is more like 37 volts.

Sounds like I'd better keep the old sun-rotted Perkos in a nice, dry place.

 

[Briankinley2004]

Sounds like I'd better keep the old sun-rotted Perkos in a nice, dry place.

Get you one of these and put in the panel on the output side of the Nav Lights breaker

https://store.marinebeam.com/hatteras-32v-to-12v-waterproof-dc-dc-converter/

If your 33 volt lights will work on 12 you can use them. If not just change bulbs to 12 volt LED which are much more common

 

[wpc691]

Today's happy lesson: If the 20kw genny turns over easily but won't run, check to see if the oil pressure switch is stuck.

I checked everything possibly possible, for two hours, before I checked that!


As for the heads, they're just fused. I had the wife press the button while I smacked the pump (and everything) with a hammer. The only thing that happened was a small line of smoke started coming from a screw on top of the motor.
So, I'm not going to mess with it. The only decision to make is whether to get two rebuilt pump/motor set-ups from Raz, or just buy new toilets with pumps for not that much more money.

Congrats on the new boat. It’s obvious you’re going to do a great job on her. If you’re in SWF, both Raz and Galleymaid are easy drives, saving on the onerous shipping cost of that iron. The real reason for driving though, is I always learn something when I visit Mike or Rick, and if you’re a diner aficionado, Lester’s, around the corner from Raz, is worth the trip by itself.

 

[Sadey]

Oh damn! Lesters anything is good but especially the deserts. Just had lunch there today. Best of luck with the boat! This site is a huge brain trust for everything Hatteras.

 

[Guy Walters]

I rebuilt all 3 of my Galley Maid pumps on my 84 55C. Luckily I had an extra one to practice on. Robert is correct, the motors are just starter motors. I had a local motor shop check them out and install new bearings and brushes. You can by the rebuild kits from Raz and their instructions are very easy to follow. I also soda blasted all of the parts and repainted them, they look brand new. I have re-installed 2 of them and they work great, a little loud, everyone knows you are going! It was a pretty cheap re-build. I only problem I encountered was get the old "welded" on hoses off. I used as much heat as I thought prudent and stopped right before catching the boat on fire. I pretty much gave up and just cut them off and attached an extension to them with new hose clamps. This also required some new floor hatches.
I think the key to keeping them working is to use them.
Guy

 

[JuiceClark]

I need to take new pics of the deconstructed mess. That bad tint on the back window was removed in about 5 minutes using a $1 bottle of "Totally Awesome" from Big Lots. You spray that on and the razor blade slides right behind the tint like hot butter.

I decided instead of ordering new fabric for the valances, I'm going to take them down for good. They seem to make the space look more crowded...or something. The speaker wires and ancient indirect lighting the valances were hiding are all going in the trash. Those old track lights are trashed as well.

The windows have nice wood custom blinds (pulled up in the pic). I'm going to order new wood valances for them and match the color with gel stain.
https://www.amazon.com/TailorView-Valance-Horizontal-Venetian-Mahogany/dp/B081G7K43Q?th=1

The only thing left to hide is the line of staples where the headliner meets the wall. I'll cover that with some kind of hardwood corner molding or maybe even a very small crown molding or something. I'll shop around until the right molding pops-up. The only fabric coverings will be over where the front windows were in earlier models...and those can be cut-down in size quite a bit.

 

[Bob Bradley]

You'll have to get rid of those track lights. They'll be in the way of the rod racks.

Seriously, nice looking boat. Good luck with her.

 

[whoover]

Pull the fabric off the old valances, there may be nice mahogany underneath. Mine did.

Walt Hoover

 

[JuiceClark]

Pull the fabric off the old valances, there may be nice mahogany underneath. Mine did.

Walt Hoover

Yes! I sure did. Under 4 layers of fabric (one was a nice blue with jumping marlin in gold thread - wish I could find that again) there was those nice mahogany veneer plywood planks. What I really need is a couple pics of someone's work who used those...because I haven't quite figured out how.

My first thought was to finish those and put them up. However, they need a nice edge around them since it's a plywood. I thought it might be very difficult to find a matching molding to finish the edge. Plus, a couple of the valances have curves - which would be tough to work around.

I'll kick it around for awhile and strategy will arise.

Looks like the good stuff from Central America.

 

[cenger]

I removed the fabric from the variances, re-oiled the wood, and added some new shades and it made a world of difference brightening up space.

 

[JuiceClark]

I removed the fabric from the variances, re-oiled the wood, and added some new shades and it made a world of difference brightening up space.

Whoa, that looks absolutely great. I want that! What did you do on the edge of the mahogany plywood? I suppose I could just stain it dark or paint the edge...or something??

You also removed the cabinet behind the booth, which is something I'd like to do soon. That thing is a waste of space.

Can't we just swap boats to save me a lotta trouble?! I'm going to have some questions for you as I dig into the salon for sure.

 

[cenger]

On my 55' it was solid wood not a veneer and had a very nice edge already beveled. Are you sure yours is a veneer?

 

[JuiceClark]

On my 55' it was solid wood not a veneer and had a very nice edge already beveled. Are you sure yours is a veneer?

It's a thick veneer, but yeah...it's a plywood. I've only torn the fabric off two of the five pieces, but would assume they're all the same. That's alright, I can create an edge on them...now that I'm inspired by the polished look of your salon.

Damn - I shoulda' bought a 55'!

 

[whoover]

I was goig to say have a look at my gallery but none of the photos show the headliner or much of the valences. Mine are solid wood also and look much the same. Teak oil brought them to a nice color after sanding and plugging a few holes.

Walt Hoover

 

[JuiceClark]

I was goig to say have a look at my gallery but none of the photos show the headliner or much of the valences. Mine are solid wood also and look much the same. Teak oil brought them to a nice color after sanding and plugging a few holes.

Walt Hoover

I really appreciate the input. I'm learning on the fly and just saved several hundred bucks, at least, realizing I should just use what's under all that fabric.

I just ordered 100' of 3/4" mahogany edgebanding to finish the edges of that plywood. While ordering, I also bought 25' of 1 1/2" banding and a 24"x 45" piece of ribbon mahogany veneer to cover the table in the booth.

We have to get as much done as possible during this initial surge. Pretty soon, the family will run out of enthusiasm and settle-into the normal one project per week schedule.

 

[cenger]

For the tabletop, you might want to consider using thin-sliced mahogany or teak rather than a veneer to cover the table. I did not like the Formica counters and galley table. I remade the galley table out of 1” teak and covered the countertops with ¼ inch teak.

 

[JuiceClark]

For the tabletop, you might want to consider using thin-sliced mahogany or teak rather than a veneer to cover the table. I did not like the Formica counters and galley table. I remade the galley table out of 1” teak and covered the countertops with ¼ inch teak.

That looks awesome. I bought enough veneer to do that counter next to the fridge as well.

The banded mahogany veneer was only 35 bucks for a 24"x80" sheet. I looked at a nice teak table replacement there and then remembered my Achilles heel - kids. My damned kids will dig into it with a fork or something. So, for now I'll cover it and make it look decent with a bunch of coats of poly.

Kids.