Lookout Windows

[Sadey]

Braodus’s son reached to a VM I left about windows during the FLIBS 2021. As some of you know Broadus passed away late last year. They’re putting things back together and continuing on with the business, at least for a while. Both of my galley windows are leaking. One of them is leaking behind the frame so I have to pull out both windows panes and one frame. We don’t have any hatch in the galley to get fresh air so I spoke with Broadus about putting sliding windows in the galley. They just sent me a quote for replacing both frames and I’m considering it. Has anybody here used their products? The reason I ask is when talking to BJ, Braodus’s son, he said the window may not fit perfectly and some modification to the opening might be required. I’m wondering if I’m opening a can of worms that I don’t need to. The cost for both windows with sliders and dark tinted glass is around $6000+ shipping. Since the boat lives in the upper Midwest we have the windows and doors open more than we are running the air conditioning and really enjoy the fresh air. But worth the cost?

 

[Captain Ralph]

Last summer they completed installing all the windows on Nauti Lottie. Including sliding windows. What a great product and installation. Including a larger sized stb galley window.
The price is tall but a better product and better looking than when your boat was factory new.

Have them digitize all the windows on your boat and keep the file. Later, you can have any window built and installed much quicker.

 

[Sadey]

I’m sorry for the stupid question but do they have to be on the boat to digitize the windows? My concern is with the possible further modifications I would have to do in order for these replacement windows to fit properly. I could just remove my frames and replace the glass. That would be the easiest and least expensive fix. However since I have to go through most of the effort to remove the frames, the added convenience of a crossbreeze in the galley is attractive to me. However I’m trying to walk the line between expense and reward.

 

[Captain Ralph]

When they digitized boats for us, I recall they used the outer edge and the mounting screws. I'm sure they can measure and re-produce a window in hand.

However, it may take weeks before a window is back in your hand. Making and finishing the frame may take a few days, in a schedule of other works.
But, Each piece of glass is custom ordered. Sometimes it takes a while for the glass to come in from that mill. We waited weeks on some of our orders.

Oh, If you can find the extra bux, have them install the windows.
I've done a couple of them. It is truly a PIA job when doing one at a time by your self.
Beyond the DIY videos, there is still a lot of fitting & trimming that will eat hours up, if whomever has never done it before a few times.

 

[Sadey]

That’s kind of the answer I was looking for, thanks. Not really up for a big project like. Having Lookout do it won’t work and honestly I’d rather redirect the funds of paying somebody else to do it into more pressing projects. Looks like I’ll just pull out the existing frames, replace the glass and re-bed everything.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Your still looking at one heck of a project.
Stay safe and well.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Remember, every hole the factory cut for a window was Plus or Minus some sort of measurement (RCH to finger width, +). Lots of frames were built to fit the hole after it was cut. On the windows I replaced, most screws went into nothing but glue. I remember the trapezoidal window stb forward that serviced the mid / for head. It was out a few extra days to allow to refinish the window box. Not serviceable from inside the boat. Then lots of grinding for the new window to fit. Factory cut was crooked. Lots of factory screws into just black gooie sealant.
The port side, over the twin bunk cabin, required mods to the interior trim to fit correctly.
Now, with everything in, the ship looks great.

Oh, the factory black goo,,,, what a mess.
It ALL has to be cleaned off for the epoxy to adhere to the boat skin.

The kids at the shop understand the factory holes, goo and automatically adjust as they move, as a team, quickly. As I learned the hard way, Nothing beats experience. They blew me away.

BTW, I have brand new window suction cup / glass holding tools.
Unused and for sale a lil cheaper than I paid for them.

Years ago, in term owners, Lambs tries to install some of these windows.
Over budget and the work (as usual at that time) sucked.

 

[jmooney]

Waterway Systems in Bradenton can make new frames . Sam’s has the aluminum extrusions. I made new windows for $1000 . I spent more to hard anodize them and the paint them . The biggest problem is the cut out in the fiberglass. Mine was crudely cut out which didn’t leave enough surface to seal . I filled it in to properly fit the windows. The new frames had only a fraction of the screw holes which is a cause of corrosion. I had a professional window repair technician using adhesive for high rise glass windows help me install the frames . Ten years and no problems.

 

[Cricket]

I agree with Ralph, the the cutout from the factory is what may need to be adjusted once you get the frames out, which really isn't a big deal.
Also, you just can't compare aluminum frames with the quality and no maintenance of fiberglass frames.
We made and installed our own fiberglass frames almost 30 years ago and haven't had an issue yet.
Braodus did make some quarter fender rails for us in spring of 2021 which were perfect.
Hopefully the family can keep things rolling, would be a huge resource loss for our older Hatteras community.

 

[Sadey]

Thank for the input. BJ, Broadus’s son said they’d re going to keep it going for a while.

 

[Naughty Lottie]

As Ralph said, I highly recommend them. PM me if you want to talk directly, I’ll be back on land on Friday.

 

[whoover]

Dave,

Two years ago I removed all of my frames. I had two foggy windows. Some leaks and fading anodizing. I sand blasted the frames and they
got three coats of awlgrip same color as the boat.. I reset all the glass using the instructions here on the forum and bought new rubber and weather stripping from Sams. All of my screws went into some structure luckily, calling the cutouts for the openings crude is an overstatement. I think it was a job that was assigned to the new guy!

Sorry to all forum members for the dirty deck, repainting of the non skid is being done this spring.
Walt Hoover

 

[rsmith]

Your in fresh water. Everyone I’ve seen painted in a salt environment starts with filiform corrosion and that white powered rot under the paint. Sandblasting may be key though. When I had my plane painted they stripped it down to bare aluminum acid washed it then alodine followed up with a epoxy primer and finished with awlgrip. A few years later I started again with filiform corrosion.

 

[whoover]

Yes salt water may destroy my work, even a freshwater environment might be tough on the frames. It's only been two years. The faded anodizing was making the boat look old and I know I will not be moving it off the great lakes. I didn't know if Dave was moving south or not. I wondered if powder coating would be an option?

Walt Hoover

 

[rsmith]

Problem with powder coat is you need to find someone with an oven big enough to put the parts in.