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Learning about bottom paints

  • Thread starter Thread starter Starman
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Starman

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During the past 3 weeks at the boatyard I have learned what busy really means, LOL.

But more important is the education coming in from all directions, especially about bottom paint.

In most cases price is the driving factor on which paint a customer uses. We have a range from about 95.00 to well over 300.00 a gallon. And today I had a customer request the Interlux SR !

Two things I do know..........

The more copper , the higher the cost and the more the gallon weighs. This alone should tell us all something. We pay for what we get.

I also learned that we can apply an ablative paint over a hard paint, but not a hard over an ablative unless the ablative is totally removed.



In the next week or so I am going to paint a section of fiberglass with these different bottom paints and drop it in the water ( tied to the dock ) and see which works or holds up better when it just sits there.

The interlux factory rep is visiting tomorrow.
 
During the past 3 weeks at the boatyard I have learned what busy really means, LOL.

But more important is the education coming in from all directions, especially about bottom paint.

In most cases price is the driving factor on which paint a customer uses. We have a range from about 95.00 to well over 300.00 a gallon. And today I had a customer request the Interlux SR !

Two things I do know..........

The more copper , the higher the cost and the more the gallon weighs. This alone should tell us all something. We pay for what we get.

I also learned that we can apply an ablative paint over a hard paint, but not a hard over an ablative unless the ablative is totally removed.



In the next week or so I am going to paint a section of fiberglass with these different bottom paints and drop it in the water ( tied to the dock ) and see which works or holds up better when it just sits there.

The interlux factory rep is visiting tomorrow.
Paul, do one with VC-17 also. Before you pull them out swish the samples around to simulate the boat moving. VC-17, although not the highest on copper, uses teflon which makes the bottom come amasingly clean after a good run. The real beauty of this stuff is that it has no buildup at all, so you never have to remove the old stuff ever!!
 
May R.

Saw where you and some others had mentioned this VC-17 before and will be asking about it for sure.

Thanx
 
Starman - You can fill the void left by Powerboat Reports. Should I send you my $15 subscription?
 
This is off topic, but on topic...

I have a steel barge that I need to bottom paint (came new with some cheap machine paint on it). I'm mostly in fresh to brackish water...does one use different bottom paint on steel hulls?
 
Has anyone ever heard of Seahawk Sharkskin bottom paint? Used the search tool on the forum but came up with zero responses. Yard is recommending it as it only has approximately 41% copper and is enviromentally friendly, but seem to be getting good results here on the west coast. Can change my preference of paints if need be...
 
I just used a Sea Hawk paint with a biocide. Cukote Biocide Plus.
My boat is on the east coast in Georgia. We put the paint on in April. It appears to be working well.

plhttp://www.seahawkpaints.com/antipro/cukotebio.htmus.
 
I have a steel barge that I need to bottom paint (came new with some cheap machine paint on it). I'm mostly in fresh to brackish water...does one use different bottom paint on steel hulls?

Genaraly copper is used on steel but a barrier coat of epoxy mastic must be applied to the blasted steel before the antifouling. The purpose is to insulate the steel from the copper.

Brian
 
Someone posted before information about a 5 year commercial paint.

I would be interested in putting it on my boat later this year.
 
Soda blasted the bottom and i'm using seahawk system. barrier coat and biocide. I'll let you know how it works out. Anyone else using seahawk ??
 
Someone posted before information about a 5 year commercial paint.

I would be interested in putting it on my boat later this year.

Trinidad 75 will hold up for at least 2 years. The only thing I've heard that is better you would have to travel to the Bahamas in order to get it painted. We may try the SR this year. It is pretty costly but if it keeps the slime off for 3-4 months at a time I will be happy.
 
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In May 2004 I put 3 coats of Interlux Micron CSC on the boat.

Had planned on redoing it this year but it still doesn't need it.

The diver we use had told me the hull didn't need repainting but I wasn't sure about that till...

Had the boat hauled to get a thru hull fixed in April and the bottom still looks good. I was impressed.
 
This is off topic, but on topic...

I have a steel barge that I need to bottom paint (came new with some cheap machine paint on it). I'm mostly in fresh to brackish water...does one use different bottom paint on steel hulls?
You sure do need a special bottom paint. The only one I know of is Interlux Tri-Lux. The big problem is the copper. Steel and copper make a battery at the expense of the steel. Our Yacht Club had a steel workboat. One spring the group painted the bottom with a copper based bottom paint. By mid season they were welding holes in the hull. I had them strip and barrier coat the hull. We then applied Tri-Lux and we used white so we could keep an eye on the buildup. The stuff worked great. We used it every year until we got rid of the boat. It does need to be applied annually. Try it, I am sure you will be happy.
 
Trinidad 75 will hold up for at least 2 years. The only thing I've heard that is better you would have to travel to the Bahamas in order to get it painted. We may try the SR this year. It is pretty costly but if it keeps the slime off for 3-4 months at a time I will be happy.


The SR is $235/Gal. I may look into the BT/YD. as its much less and may be close to the 75 in performance. and looks like its about $75/gal less than the SR
 
How about the common practice of thinning out your expensive paint with mineral spirits or something similar. Supposedy makes it easier to apply but at what cost in longevity? I was advised this is common practice in the yards.
 
Thinning is common practice but the amount of paint on the hull is directly proportional to the amount of protection. Up north it was fine as we pulled boats every winter but her in Fl. I may haul every 2 years or longer if I can push it.
 
Starman what was the outcome?
 
Unfortunately the test piece of fiberglass has come up missing.........

probably untied from the floating dock by someone not knowing what it was.

I will do anoher test.

Kerry,

I rcvd your email and will wait for the samples


Sorry for the delay folks.
 
Unfortunately the test piece of fiberglass has come up missing.........

probably untied from the floating dock by someone not knowing what it was.

I will do anoher test.

Kerry,

I rcvd your email and will wait for the samples


Sorry for the delay folks.
Starman, I don't think you need a piece of a fiberglass layup' just paint an old 2x4 or whatever you have laying around. That is unless you are also checking for blister proofing.
 
Save yoursels the trouble and subscribe to practical sailor magazine (sister publication to powerboat reports and doing fine)
They do bottom paint tests scientifically, on perhaps 30 brands at a time.
 

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