leaking hard pipe from fuel cooler to air box

[seacolt]

871 TI...I have a raw water leak from the hard pipe that goes from the fuel cooler to the air box (2 inch hard pipe) . Over time it has developed a hole at elbow from chaffing up against the turbo oil return line. We tried to braze it but it did not take. It appears to be bronze or similar type metal. Just wondering what the acceptable method of repair would be. Cutting off the elbow and adding rubber hose to make up the difference ? Having A new pipe fabricated out of what material ? or can this part be purchased ?, cant seem to find online anywhere.
thanks

 

[Regal2800]

If the elbow has rusted through and created a pin hole leak, then the surrounding areas will be thin as well. patching that hole will be a temporary repair. Best to see if you can find a used one ebay etc. Any steel fabricator should easily be able to make one as well. Bronze would be preferred but 316 stainless will also work.

 

[davidwigler]

Maybe a muffler shop could bend a stainless exhaust pipe to match, or NAPA might have a similar shaped heater hose.

 

[captddis]

Ever think of going to a Detroit Diesel dealer?

I was able to get new replacement pipes for all but one pipe on my 8V92'S. They are not cheap but they fit and should last many years.

BTW they are Intercoolers not air boxes.

 

[DCMY #92]

If the rest of the pipe is sound and the only problem is the thin area created by chafing on the hose you might try JB Weld. Clean the area good, butter JB Weld on the leak thin area, wrap a band of light weight fiberglass cloth around the pipe and cover it with more JB weld.

I repaired a crack in the oil pan of my 6V53 this way 25 years ago. It's still holding.

 

[Boatsb]

Remind me to look at old posts before buying any members boats. Dave is the perfect example of why. He did it right.

My engines (8v53's) did not have the pipes available so I took the old to a machine shop. They removes the pipe from the flanges and tig welded in new. Was it less than buying new ones? I'll never know as there were none available. Was it better than jb weld? If you seriously consider that you should not own a hatteras.

 

[Finalee]

I would not be afraid to use JB on this provided the rest of the pipe is sound. The cause of the problem is known and visible, unlike a
corrosion problem where the inside is not.

 

[Boatsb]

I would not be afraid to use JB on this provided the rest of the pipe is sound. The cause of the problem is known and visible, unlike a
corrosion problem where the inside is not.

You fix your motor your way. I'll fix mine the right way. A hose chafing through a pipe? Maybe I don't understand how that happens. I would think the hose cafes through first.

 

[Finalee]

You fix your motor your way. I'll fix mine the right way. A hose chafing through a pipe? Maybe I don't understand how that happens. I would think the hose cafes through first.

They patch tires don't they? If I understand this particular scenario JB will out last the pipe.

 

[DCMY #92]

You fix your motor your way. I'll fix mine the right way. A hose chafing through a pipe? Maybe I don't understand how that happens. I would think the hose cafes through first.

I can assure you my engines are fixed the right way. And you're right - you don't understand. If the hose is covered in stainless braid or has stainless braid under the outer cover it's harder than the bronze pipe. The harder material always wins.

 

[Boatsb]

I can assure you my engines are fixed the right way. And you're right - you don't understand. If the hose is covered in stainless braid or has stainless braid under the outer cover it's harder than the bronze pipe. The harder material always wins.

Even the braid will not easily wear through the pipe. stainless is soft and would not be a good abrasive. Also how long was this is left to chafe. If water is leaking on the pipe and if the is rotting from 40 years of use I can see it thinner than when first installed. Fixing it with epoxy is not the answer.

 

[DCMY #92]

Even the braid will not easily wear through the pipe. stainless is soft and would not be a good abrasive. Also how long was this is left to chafe. If water is leaking on the pipe and if the is rotting from 40 years of use I can see it thinner than when first installed. Fixing it with epoxy is not the answer.

I visit this site for information, enjoyment, and to occasionally help others with my experience or knowledge. Not to argue over mis-information. But to prevent others from being misled by incorrect information I provide the following facts.

The hardness of common bronze is 166 to 183 Brinell, soft phosphorus bronze 149 to 163 Brinell, and hardened phosphorus bronze 187 to 202 Brinell. The raw water tubes on our engines is probably not hardened - there would be no reason to do so.

The hardness of 316 and 316L stainless steel (the most common used in in fuel and oil hose) is 217 Brinell.

The SS braid is harder than the hardest bronze - and much harder than soft bronze. The SS will easily act like sand paper and wear through the bronze.

The raw water tubes on my 6V53s are well over 50 years old. They are in perfect condition with no wall thinning. So, corrosion is not likely to be an issue unless sacrificial anode maintenance is very poor for a long time. If your tubes corroded through, then most likely someone didn't consistently maintain the anodes.

 

[Boatsb]

I visit this site for information, enjoyment, and to occasionally help others with my experience or knowledge. Not to argue over mis-information. But to prevent others from being misled by incorrect information I provide the following facts.

The hardness of common bronze is 166 to 183 Brinell, soft phosphorus bronze 149 to 163 Brinell, and hardened phosphorus bronze 187 to 202 Brinell. The raw water tubes on our engines is probably not hardened - there would be no reason to do so.

The hardness of 316 and 316L stainless steel (the most common used in in fuel and oil hose) is 217 Brinell.

The SS braid is harder than the hardest bronze - and much harder than soft bronze. The SS will easily act like sand paper and wear through the bronze.

The raw water tubes on my 6V53s are well over 50 years old. They are in perfect condition with no wall thinning. So, corrosion is not likely to be an issue unless sacrificial anode maintenance is very poor for a long time. If your tubes corroded through, then most likely someone didn't consistently maintain the anodes.

So the stainless braid will wear through 100 x it's thickness in bronze? Maybe in theory but reality has shown differently. I have replaced more than my share of chafed hose. Usually it's coming apart where the braid rubbed and broke apart as the strands are quite thin.

 

[seacolt]

Thanks for all the information ! Just to get me through the weekend I did use JB and it held up. However I am replacing the pipe with stainless. The pinhole was right at the bend in the pipe, it was rubbing against the turbo fitting from the oil return line. looking at the other engine there is about a 1 inch clearance. I will correct that with new pipe installation. As far as anodes. Yes I will be replacing those as well.
Thanks all !!