Its time to deal with the s&*%

[Gina Marie]

I have a two head 45C and the vacuflush is giving me problems. The question is do I change over to electric heads with macerators or replace existing. Please give me your 2 cents. Thanks Tom/ Gina Marie

 

[Mike36c]

A vacuflush system can be repaired, what's up?

 

[Gina Marie]

Mike I just did that on the 45c, the master pump is in a place you need to remove the oil cooler hose and then you have 4 inches to replace the pump. I just did that and it took me all day now something else is wrong or blocked so if I am going back into that area I think its time to make life easier!!! If changing to a different head now is when I need advise. Thanks Mike

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I like my Raritan Atlantes, but I don't think you'll want to spend the $1000 per toilet if you have something that can be repaired.

 

[Genesis]

IMHO the Vacuflush system is one of the best out there - I'd fix it.

 

[Mike36c]

What are the symptoms? No vacuum? excessive pump cycles? It's either the pump (duckbills, motor, etc.), the plumbing (pipe, vacuum chamber), or the heads. It might be something simple.

 

[Gina Marie]

Thanks Genesis from the replies and the cost - back to the repair. Genesis I know you had a 45c how tough to change the sanitation hoses on the head system I have two heads thanks tom.

 

[Gina Marie]

Mike I just replaced the pump it worked fine for about a day and then no pressure. I will tear it apart this week but with all the replies I will repair what I find wrong. I would like to change all hoses as they are original but I dont know what I am in for. Will keep you posted.

 

[Genesis]

Thanks Genesis from the replies and the cost - back to the repair. Genesis I know you had a 45c how tough to change the sanitation hoses on the head system I have two heads thanks tom.

Oh Gezus, you don't want to know.

To get to some of the clamps you are going to have to cut two access hatches - one in the head, one in the master.

You want my view on this? If you have to replace the hoses consider a complete re-do. Rip out the old two-component system ENTIRELY, along with all the hoses.

Then buy one of the new combo pump + tank deals. Put it under the V-berth in the forward S/R. Run heads to it (very short runs now, .vs. huge long runs)

Now run the OUTLET of that directly to the tank (again, SHORT run.)

Now take the EXISTING tank pump-out and put a "Y" in that line under the galley floor. Run the outlet side of that "Y" (the end that does not go to the deck pumpout fitting) back to the ER; the only hose going back there now. Add a new Sealand diaphram pump (same one used for the Vacuflush but only one set of duckbills - used as a macerator rather than as a vacuum pump) and the outlet of THAT goes to the O/B discharge.

Now you have a system that has about 1/3rd of the hose which was originally there, you no longer have to climb outboard of the port engine to get to the pump and tank (which is a REAL PROBLEM when you have trouble) the crap all flows downhill (a very good thing) directly to the tank. You comply with all the new directives and avoid the entire "you can't have an O/B discharge" crap, because your system doesn't - it ALWAYS flushes to the holding tank. The tank on these boats is HUGE and with a V/F will last you a couple of weeks if you're living on the boat, and MONTHS if you're a "weekend warrior" before it needs to be sucked out.

And - if you're offshore and its legal, you can dump the tank to sea.

This is what I'd do if I had to go to the trouble to screw with this. Believe me, its not a job you want to do more than once.

 

[Pascal]

i woudln't have anything but VF... they're as simple as heads can be.

if you have no vacum on the new pump, then does it run at all ? if not check power supply and vac switches

if it runs but you have no vacum at the heads, then it's clogged... if you have one vac pump for two heads and no vac at either head then the clog is at the pump inlet. you dont' have to take out the pump just unscrew the inlet and clear the duckbills.

dont' forget that on 2 heads / single pump set up you have an inline duck bill between each head/tank and the Y. these can get clogged too but with enough slack in the hose you can sometime shake it and unclog them witout openign them...

 

[SKYCHENEY]

The one good thing about running all new lines is that you can put them in where you want them and you can add cleanouts at points that are easy to access. When I ran my new lines, I added cleanouts at various points along the hose. I have never needed to use them and I hope I never do, but it may come in handy someday.

 

[Gina Marie]

Thanks for the replies I quess this project must be well planned. I found my problem why the head is not working I went to Lewis marine and purchased a pump: it looked the same, it SMELLED the same and the color was the same but guess what it "AIN'T" the same. A pump from Sealand is 659.00 the pump I purchased from Lewis is 230.00 and does not make enough vacuum for the unit to work so guess what I have, a pump thats worth S*&^%$#@!. The guys down at Enviromental Marine in Fort Lauderdale where a great help so when its time thats where I would go. The boat is in the keys and will stay there hopefully through August assuming we get no Hurricanes. I will purchase the pump and start looking at where I will put these new holes in my floor. I will also look into purchasing new sanitation hoses. This is not going to be on of those projects I will be looking forward to. Will keep you posted. Thanks Tom/Gina Marie

 

[Gina Marie]

Genesis do I understand this correctly!!!! I just looked at the diagram on my 45C. Waste travels like this: From the head it runs aft under the galley into the ER to the vacuum tank then to the pump then to the Y valve then run forward through the ER wall again under the galley to the Holding tank. Is that right????????????????????????????

If I look at this your way NEW: from the head forward under the V berth to the vacuum tank then pump then aft to a y valve forwaRD OF THE HOLDING TANK to the holding tank or OB.

 

[Genesis]

Close.

My new way would be:

From the head to the tank/pump (combined, the new unit) combo, then DIRECTLY to the tank.

No diverter there.

Then, on the pump-out connection, you put in a "Y". On the other (non-pump out) end of the "Y" to connect a hose going back to the engine room, which has a second Sealand (but the "S", not "T" - think I have that right) pump on it, and THAT goes overboard.

You now ALWAYS flush into the tank.

If you wish to dump the tank AT SEA, WHERE IT IS LEGAL, you can do so using the macerator to evacuate the holding tank.

You now cannot flush directly to sea - its impossible - therefore, you no longer have a concern regarding a potential problem there.

And the hose from head to vacuum unit to holding tank is all about 5' long - in total.

 

[Gina Marie]

Genesis Thanks Gina Marie