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Installing Chocks for a RIB on a 45C deck

This will be interesting to follow. I'll toss in a couple of thoughts. Starboard is polyethylene. Nothing will stick to it but dirt. I'm referring to caulk of course, so how ever you fasten them, make sure the seal will stay tight by making it in compression as is sometimes suggested in using RTV for gaskets.

A RIB presents potential for a huge load if it gets a good bath in a large wave. Screws might pull out, but might be preferable to really hurting the deck in a through bolt job. My PO had the deck boxes screwed down with starboard spacers. I removed them to paint the decks and reinstalled with screws and 4000UV using the compression technique and they are still tight per moisture meter testing after 5-6 years.

Bobk
 
Pearl Island said:
I am looking into installing Chocks for a max 500lb RIB on my Hatteras 45C foredeck.

1.- Anybody have experience from Starboard Shocks http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/5-foot-king-starboard-dinghy-chocks.html
2.- Can I screw any Chock directly to the foredeck or should I make "through hull" installation?
Click to expand...


I have a RIB on the foredeck of my 45. My chocks were not thru bolted but the mounting holes were drilled and filled with epoxy and then screwed in to eliminate water intrusion potential. They have been there for almost 13 years now with no issues. My cradle is made of aluminum.

I have a friend that had a 54 whose chocks were starboard with a 13 whaler and they held up fine with no issues. I don't know how they were mounted however.
 
I went with 3/8 ali backing plates, 6 x 4". Understand the screws pulling out scenario but didnt want the dink going through the salon windows if it broke free.
I drilled top skin first, spun out core and filled with epoxy then drilled through everything. Ali cradle.
 
Thanks for your feed back. I have not bought the starboard davit chocks, just wanted to see if there are any experience before deciding for them or something else.

1.- Any recommendation for brand or type of chocks?

2.- If I go for through bolt fastening, how bid diameter should I make the hole before filling with epoxy?
 
Thinking a bit more about what i did and realised cradle isn't through bolted but screwed into epoxy filled holes, it's the turnbuckles for and aft that are through bolted.
On the dinghy I have one turnbuckle at the front and two that go down to a single mount point from the transom, they effectively hold everything down.
I use an 1/8" allen key with short end cut down to about 3/8", so drill top skin 3/8 to 1/2" spin out balsa and fill with epoxy, keep filling as it soaks in, this creates your plug.
I got lucky with access for the backing plates. forward was through light fitting aft of hatch and aft backing plate was through shower light fitting.
 
Last edited:
Colwyn D said:
Thinking a bit more about what i did and realised cradle isn't through bolted but screwed into epoxy filled holes, it's the turnbuckles for and aft that are through bolted.
On the dinghy I have one turnbuckle at the front and two that go down to a single mount point from the transom, they effectively hold everything down.
I use an 1/8" allen key with short end cut down to about 3/8", so drill top skin 3/8 to 1/2" spin out balsa and fill with epoxy, keep filling as it soaks in, this creates your plug.
I got lucky with access for the backing plates. forward was through light fitting aft of hatch and aft backing plate was through shower light fitting.
Click to expand...

Thanks, smart to use the allen key.
 
Thanks for your feed back. Final decision was to go with the Weaver Swivel Chocks with quick release.[h=1][/h]
 
Was reading somewhere that if you heat Starboard/PE until it gets "shiney" adhesive will stick after it cools down.
Thoughts???
 
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