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Installation of deck fittings question?

  • Thread starter Thread starter hibanx
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hibanx

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Feb 2, 2010
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
43' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1978 - 1983)
I recently had a davit installed on the foredeck of my 43c. I had the installer de-core and epoxy the area around the stand pipe and mounting flange to avoid any wet core issues later. My question is, should I also de-core the areas where I attach the deck cradle and tie down anchors? Is it sufficient to use 5200 around screw holes and use self tapping screws, or should I de-core the area where each fastener penetrates the deck and through bolt every one? I am trying to avoid having to remove the headliner to gain access to the underside. Am I being lazy, or is that overkill? BTW...my research here on the forum was invaluable for the davit install. I discovered a really trick way to conceal the standpipe on the inside. It runs down behind the back of the galley pantry cabinets, making it completely invisible. The admiral is quite happy that we did not lose an inch of storage space :).
 
Is it overkill Not in my opinion :D

You did the major part correct why stop now !

How about pictures we love pictures :cool:
 
Self taping screws in a balsa cored deck? I wouldn't..

If you don't want to mess with the headliner, why not toggle bolts after "decoring"? I have used toggles in a non cored boat deck which had no access underneath and they are very strong (tie down rings for a jet ski)
 
The bow already experiences tremendous stresses. Now imagine a wave stuffing the bow, and the subsequent lift forces on the tender. Multiply if you are going forward at any speed. If the tender breaks free, what will it hit and damage before finally going overboard?

I would look at multiple through bolts and large metal backing plates.
 
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When I did mine, I removed the coring and filled it with thickened epoxy. Then, I tapped new holes and through-bolted with stainless plates on the underside.
 
Ok, I'm convinced. I guess I will go ahead and replace the headliner too. Nothing worse than a soggy deck core. Thanks for the input.
 
Did the same job on my 42C. For the cradle feet I de cored and used self tappers into the epoxy plug, figured the dink is not actually held down by the cradle. But for the hold down fittings I de cored, epoxied and drilled through then bolted into pre tapped 1/2" ali plates. The plates I got into position by removing the forward hatch headliner trim and pulling the staples along the aft edge, this gave me enough room to get the forward plate in. The rear ones, first was near an overhead light fitting, same procedure but taped the plate onto a stick to get it into position underneath the fitting and other was above the shower cubicle light. The plates I coated with thickened epoxy to get a good seat against the underside of the deck.
 
Did the same job on my 42C. For the cradle feet I de cored and used self tappers into the epoxy plug, figured the dink is not actually held down by the cradle. But for the hold down fittings I de cored, epoxied and drilled through then bolted into pre tapped 1/2" ali plates. The plates I got into position by removing the forward hatch headliner trim and pulling the staples along the aft edge, this gave me enough room to get the forward plate in. The rear ones, first was near an overhead light fitting, same procedure but taped the plate onto a stick to get it into position underneath the fitting and other was above the shower cubicle light. The plates I coated with thickened epoxy to get a good seat against the underside of the deck.

Thanks Colwyn, that is great information!
 

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