Indicator Light- 12v or 120v?

[tonytrakovich]

If you are sure the wires coming from genny are 120vac, and the light is rated for 120vac then polarity doesn’t matter. AC current is both positive and negative. The led being a diode will block all the current in the wrong polarity. The resister will reduce the voltage to something the led can work with.

 

[JLR]

Thanks Tony and all others who helped.

 

[Pete]

A footnote on this subject. While DC LEDs will illuminate on AC input voltage as indicated by Tony, they will do so with reduced brightness and may appear to flicker to the human eye. This is why AC versions of LEDs are sold which add an AC to DC rectifier in the indicator, yielding full brightness flicker free illumination. Best to match the LED to the input voltage characteristics.

Pete

 

[JLR]

Problem solved. I was able to trace out the old feed wires to good old fashion red and black. All wired up and working fine with genset still decomissioned.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Problem solved. I was able to trace out the old feed wires to good old fashion red and black. All wired up and working fine with genset still decomissioned.

That's strange. Red and Black would indicate DC as would red and yellow. Black and white would normally be AC. Are you sure this light is fed with AC?

 

[Boatsb]

X2 with sky.

 

[JLR]

It seems that way. Also, I accidentally touched the leads together in stripping the feed wires and sure enough, it tripped a breaker on the AC panel. Thereafter, just to be sure, I shut down the AC panel and disconnected the boat from the dock and had no current running through these wires. But, boy, what a spark when they touched. Scared the heck out of me.

 

[Boatsb]

What size breaker is on it?

Is it just the indicator light on it?

 

[Boatsb]

Spark tested. Maybe not the best process I can think of.

For future projects get a meter and double check first. I never work on live wires.

 

[JLR]

No. the breaker was labeled fly bridge outlets as I recall. Also, needless to say, the light is on whenever the boat is plugged in or when the genset is running because it is lit now when the boat is plugged in. The light that I removed was definitely 120 volts as is the new one I installed.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

No. the breaker was labeled fly bridge outlets as I recall. Also, needless to say, the light is on whenever the boat is plugged in or when the genset is running because it is lit now when the boat is plugged in. The light that I removed was definitely 120 volts as is the new one I installed.

Sounds like someone that didn't know what they were doing used the wrong wire colors when they added this light. They hooked it to the outlets to show when AC was present and then labeled it "generator".

Or.......if its OEM, then all I can say is you shoulda bought another Hatteras.

 

[JLR]

Well, it's a little bit of both. In fairness, it is labeled "120 volt" not genset. I did not know that it would also light on dockside power until I hooked it up. But, it does appear to be OEM. As I mentioned on prior posts, it certainly is not a Hatteras.

 

[jrbrein]

I have a pen shaped voltage tester that only lights up with AC not DC. No circuit required, if there is live AC even low voltage AC it will light up.

I just wave it near something I am going to work with and I immediately know if there is live AC nearby. Agree with Scott, I do not like working with live wires even DC.

You can buy these testers anywhere.

Jon

 

[Pete]

Scott's post #28 is important. The purpose of circuit breakers/fuses is to protect downstream wiring and equipment. The breaker/fuse should not exceed the lowest ampere rating of any single hard wired attached device or the wiring. From the description of the circuit it reads like the wiring to the indicator light is very small gauge but attached to a 20 amp convenience outlet circuit. If so, the wires to the indicator light really needs a 1 or 2 amp fuse in the line where it attaches to the feed voltage. As is you have a fire safety exposure, regardless of who installed the light.

Pete