Ideal Windlass Question

[rangerscott275]

Anchored out this weekend and used my windlass for first time. It is a verticle Ideal Windlass. I laid out a good 100' of rode and when cranking it back in, the top part of the windlass (the part for line rode) would spin at a constant speed....the part of the windlass where I had the chain rode cranking through (chain gypsy), would spin and then stall and spin and stall and not turn at the same speed as the rest of the windlass. Better said it was like it was slipping when it would feel too much pressure. Is this a normal feature to prevent you from putting too much tension on it or does it sound like something is stripped or not tightened properly?

 

[Bob Bradley]

There is a clutch pad between the two pieces. It sounds like it may be slipping there. I believe that you can correct this by tightening the large nut on top (That's what I did when I replaced the clutch plate in mine anyway). I had to lock the chain wildcat in place first by tensioning the anchor into place with the windlass, in order to tighten the nut.

 

[MikeP]

Yes, the purpose of the large lock nut is to vary the clutch pressure. If you pull that top nut, you can remove the capstan and see the clutch assembly.

The windlass was designed so that by loosening the nut, you can "free fall" the anchor should you wish to do so. It's not all that conveniant since you have to have the big wrench for the nut - it should have come with the boat or with the windlass. Our boat had (has) two of the wrenches on board.

I never free fall the rode personally but the capability is there. If you will never do it, just snug down the top nut tightly and it won't slip.

 

[doc g]

The problem with not free falling the anchor by loosening the nut is that the windlass was not designed to drop the anchor by powering out the chain as the thrust washers and bearings are set up to take a load in the retrieve mode only if you power it out all the time you'll ruin the gears . Did that one on mine!! Then you get to buy a bunch of expensive stuff and bathe yourself in gear oil . The smell of 90W alone is not worth it . Loosen the nut and free drop it ,snug it up to retrieve..............................Pat

 

[MikeP]

Doc,

I have heard that is a problem with the Galley Maid knockoff of the Ideal windlass (which at a glance, externally looks like the Ideal) but I didn't think it was an issue with the Ideal. I suppose it would be worth asking the Ideal folks. Of course, if you've already done that and they confirmed it, that takes care of it! But looking at their site indicates that their winches can be run in either direction, only depending on whether you purchase the appropriate switching to reverse the motor. http://www.idealwindlass.com/

 

[Bob Bradley]

For freefall, I just take my chain out of the wildcat, and let it slide around the capstan, using my foot to keep it from getting out of control. When I feel that enough is out, I use my foot to slide it back in to the wildcat. Probably not great for the capstan, but it's a bit scuffed already anyway, so I'n not too concerned.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I have found that loosening the clutch and freefalling the chain on my GM windlass has caused the clutch disks to wear quite rapidly. Now I question whic h is worse, freefalling or paying out with the motor. I guess time will tell.

 

[Maynard Rupp]

I understand the problem.It is extremly stupid to design and build the gearbox like that. I was told directly by Galley Maid not to run the winch in the down mode as there are no thrust washers on that loaded side and the case of the gearbox gets worn badly. Now why would they sell you the relays and switches to allow you to run this stupid thing either way and then tell you not to use this feature? Loosening our clutch on the wildcat still doesn't let the anchor slip very well. I just don't understand why anybody would sell a contraption like this.

 

[doc g]

The really messed up thing about it is that if you open the gearbox and look at the design it doesn't appear all that difficult to have put TWs and TBs on both sides . It probably could be done by a good machine shop as a retro. I'll see how often I have to rebuild mine as we use it all the time . BTW the clutch plates are easy to replace 15mins total. I've actually stacked two CPs on mine with longer screws and have not had any problems for about 2 years . It should give a much longer useful life. .....Pat

 

[MikeP]

I was curious about this so I contacted Ideal yesterday eve. Cliff Raymond of Ideal Windlass verified to me this morning that there is NO restriction at all on the use of an Ideal brand windlass in either direction. NO damage can be done to the Ideal windlass by raising or lowering the anchor.

Note that this applies ONLY to the Ideal windlass, not the the GM!


Cliff Raymond
Ideal Windlass
PO Box 430
5810 Post Rd
East Greenwich, RI 02818

401-884-2550 phone
401-884-1260 fax

 

[Beckytek]

DocG,
How do you know when you need new clutch plates? Do they wear down like brake linings? I looked at mine and they look okay but they slip very easily. Ron

 

[MikeP]

THe friction lining can wear down to nothing, just like a brake lining. They can also get contaminated with lubricant if you are careless and will slip more easily, requiring a lot more hold down pressure (from the big nut) to avoid slippage. Contamination will also reduce the effective "range" of the clutch adjustment.

It's worth noting that the clutch is there for a good reason - to prevent damage. If there was no clutch, there's a possibility you could rip the windlass out of the boat if the anchor was badly fouled or damage the gears or the motor. So the clutch is there to protect everything - you can adjust the clutch action by using the big nut to whatever tension level you want it to be.

 

[doc g]

You can just remove the big nut and washer(s)and slide the rope capstan off the main shaft ,if the screws are hitting the chain gypsy on the pressure plate side you need a new clutch plate. Mine were so worn the heads of the screws were half gone . I ended up busting the plate away from the screws(wear a dust mask) and using a vise grip w/plenty of PB Blaster to get them out............................Pat

 

[Trojan]

Did you ever understand why call them Ideal Windless. When you must work on them so much. Is this an oxymoron or what. LOL

BILL

 

[rangerscott275]

Re: Ideal Windlass Question - help

My windlass has no big nut on top....or on the gearbox portion either. It has the chain gypsy, then clutch plate, then capstan and on top of the capstan there a single screw holding down a 1 inch or so washer that fits into the top of the capstan. when I unscrew the screw and pull out the washer I expected to see a nut in there ready to be tightened but instead there is just a threaded hole and the top of a cylindrical opject that may just be part of the capstan itself. I can't find the manual to my windlass either. At anchor now and hoping not to have to heave in all that chain by hand!

 

[yachtsmanbill]

This is my IDEALL with a chain gypsy... Its missing any kind of cover for the clutch nut. Hope this helps! ws

 

[rangerscott275]

thanks! your picture actually helped alot because it made me realize that the top of the capstan might be removable...I ended up having no nut, but instead the tip top of my capstan acts as a giant nut and I've got it tightened up & working perfectly now! effortless anchoring...that's the way it should be!