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Hot Water Tank

  • Thread starter Thread starter manderley
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manderley

Member
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Apr 24, 2009
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33
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
54' MOTOR YACHT (1985 - 1988)
While my 40 Gallon hot water tank is still working, it is getting on and I am worried about a sudden leak or failure. With a 6 week trip planned in remote areas, I feel a need to intervene early. It is approx 32" high and 22" wide and won't fit through the engine room door (18.25") on my 54MY.

Although I have the standard Hatteras factory tank, I contacted the tech guys at Torrid Hot water tank and in discussions about possible replacements, they said that a SawZall with a steel cutting blade will easily cut the tank in half for removal.

1) Has anyone actually ever done that and if so, how did it go and do you have any tips?

2) Even if that works, it still leaves the problem of getting a new tank through the door. So far the only ones narrow enough from various marine manufacturers seem to be around the 16-17 Gallon mark. Has anyone seen anything else that is bigger that would fit?

There are no ceiling panels visible on this boat and at any rate, the pilothouse with factory teak floors etc on this model is right over the ER.

Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Larry
 
I saw it done on a 60MY. They removed the insulation and it just barely slid out the ER door. Same for getting the new one back in.

The insulation and tank fittings were replaced once the new tank was inside the door.
 
Thanks; that's encouraging.

Hatteras usually covers all the bases and it makes sense there would be a "plan B" for this. After all, even a new tank could have failed during a warranty period.

I am still waiting for Hatteras to answer as to what their plan would have been and in the meanwhile, I will call Bradford-White and ask them how thin their tanks can be stripped down to.
 
"I am still waiting for Hatteras to answer as to what their plan would have been and in the meanwhile, I will call Bradford-White and ask them how thin their tanks can be stripped down to."


Dont hold your breath... bubbas still out on this one. ws


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OEM was a 220 volt horizontal unit...

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New 20 gal vertical unit.... 110 volt
 
You can get another 1.5" of clearance through the eng room doors by removing the trim. I did that on our 53 to get a new heater in. The old one came out without that being necessary. BUT, your boat has a much bigger water heater and and extra inch or two won't get you anywhere close to what you need.

I have heard of the method of removing the outer section/insulation but most modern tanks I have seen have foamed-in insulation and I don't see how disassembly would work. Seems like you'd actually have to cut away the foam, reassemble the tank in place and then inject new foam between the tank/shell I guess it could be done but seems like a total PITA. Not sure you can even separate the outer shell since the foam acts as glue...
 
I have a newer Bradford White that holds 30 Gallons and is 42" high by 16" in diameter. Plenty of capacity for the two of us full time, and for at least four on extended cruises. Model # MI 30 R6 DS13. Maneuvering it around/over the engine, Racors and fire system bottle would be the tricky part but not hard for two people.

I'm surprised your doors have so narrow an opening. On my 56 they are 21" between the jamb and I could get another inch by removing the Jambs
 
Really small chance of failure over a limited time period...but "stuff" happens!

A sawzall cuts just about anything...I did a hot water tank and a dishwasher aboard.

A smaller tank capacity will heat faster...and likely cool down faster too...

Fast heating is really nice when running the genny intermittently. I used a smaller tank for that reason and found an 1800 watt heating element at Home Depot (instead of the standard 1500 watt element).....that combo heated water really fast!!!
 
My tank keeps water hot for at least 24 hours, which is the longest I've gone without firing up the genset.
 
Really small chance of failure over a limited time period...but "stuff" happens!

"A sawzall cuts just about anything...I did a hot water tank and a dishwasher aboard. "

Since you've cut one with a sawzall, are there any tips? I was wondering about the ceramic lining and if there would be lots of glass like shards and a massive mess or if it just cut uneventfully?
 
We (when I say "we", I mean my skinny bilge rat buddy) cut the heater out of my 52C. It took hours, but "we" used a sawzall with lots of spare blades and nothing was a problem with glass shards or anything. The heater was cut top to bottom and, after removing cooling pipes on the front of the '92's it was sneaked out in half and an eleven gallon seaward 110v reinstalled, works very nicely. (after Boatsb wired it to a 110 breaker)
 
I had to cut my water heater up to get it out..... was original 1973... All the similar size ones could not be fitted in without a lot of cutting so I just went to Lowes, got a similar one for a whopping $170 and installed it back in 2006...... No, it's not a "marine" water heater....but since the "marine" one was $800 and would of not fit without cutting stuff.........
 
The PO had a new hot water tank installed in my boat before I bought it. I don't know exact capacity, but it looks larger than 17 gal. I'm quite certain they got it through the doors without removing any trim. It heats up in about 10 minutes and holds the water hot for almost 24 hours. My wife and I spent 10 days on the boat and never ran out. I'll check the make and capacity when I get to the boat tomorrow. If it's 20 gal or more I'll get back to you with the make & model when I return home Sunday night.
 
I replaced the water heater in my boat the first year I owned her. Just remove the ER doors and the ER door frame, she'll go right through. Yes, I know it takes another hour or so, but much easier than messing with the tank, insulation, etc. It all comes out OK and replaces back OK. Just putzy work.
 

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