Help removing wildcat

[Looking Glass]

I am trying to remove my windlass, to repair or replace it. The capstan came right off, as well as the plate that holds the springs. However, the wildcat will not budge. Is there something I am missing? Is that I bushing on the shaft, or is it tapered?

 

[bigbill]

maybe a snap ring? if not soak it with blaster

 

[oscarvan]

I saw a pro wrestle with one for a whole day, after getting guidance from the manufacturer. In the end Mr. Grinder brought an end to his torture, and to the windlass. Have you tried a puller?

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Its a keyed shaft for capstan. The wildcat has no snap ring. It should pry up and off. I would lube it and let it sit for a while.

 

[osprey]

When i did mine, I removed the motor and (drain the oil) unbolted the gearbox, leaving one bolt on so the gearbox does not fall uncontrolled, return to topside, protect the top of the shaft with a block of wood and drive the shaft down using a large hammer.
P

 

[osprey]

Further, google removal of galley maid windlass and it will come up with a few posts on this site. (samsmarine)

 

[SKYCHENEY]

When i did mine, I removed the motor and (drain the oil) unbolted the gearbox, leaving one bolt on so the gearbox does not fall uncontrolled, return to topside, protect the top of the shaft with a block of wood and drive the shaft down using a large hammer.
P

You need to get the capstan off and the plate below that with the springs on it before you can drive the gearbox out.

 

[Naughty Lottie]

The wild cat should rotate freely. Large puller, just had to get mine apart, it was frozen to the shaft. Side note, the anchor should be dropped not paid out under power due to how the gear box is constructed. I destroyed my gears and learned the expensive way.

 

[doc g]

Drive some wooden wedges between the chain gypsy and the lower mounting plate, also try banging the clutch plate (on the chain gypsy) down a few times to break it loose, That should be loose on the shaft if not its probably corroded to the shaft..............Pat

 

[Looking Glass]

Thank you for all the responses. I was worried about applying too much force, that there might have been a snap ring or something holding it on. Since it seems the gypsy should be free to come off, I plan to use a gear puller, and/or a masonry hammer to bang the hell out of it when I return to the boat this weekend.

I read in other posts where people banged the shaft down through the hull, but it was always after the gypsy was removed, so I was worried about causing damage.

In the mean time, I have it soaking in PB Blaster.

If anyone is interested, I posted Part 1 of removing this windlass to my You tube Channel. I'll post the results this weekend, good or bad, as well.

"Trying Not To Sink"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvB0f9Zs_38

 

[oscarvan]

I read in other posts where people banged the shaft down through the hull

This is what I saw a tech do for almost an hour. With a BFH. After soaking it in PB blaster for days. And a portapower below decks between the motor and the deck. And again the next day. No joy no matter what. He ended up grinding the shaft off and drilling it out.

 

[madhatter1]

I would just like to remind all on this thread that I will be replacing my perfectly working Galley Maid windlass hopefully soon. the Galley maid will be for sale a a reasonable price. Possibly cocktails and a bone in Filet would do the trick!

Already have the new Good Automatic Windlass sitting in a box in the garage. Bought the boat from Capt Dave Disesia. Although he did not use it he demanded that everything on the boat should work.

 

[whoover]

Hello Ed,

I just watched your latest video. I cannot help with the windlass but I can feel for you on the possible wet core under the pulpit. I am in the process of fixing mine. I can almost guarantee that the coring in the pulpit under the teak treads on each side has turned to mush. The screws holding the treads down were not sealed very well and allowed water to enter. My pulpit is off and coring repaired with PVC. Once you have the galley maid out drill some test holes from in side to check the core, I found about 15 square feet of bad core that will be done as soon as the weather starts to warm. You are into it this far and I hope the damage is very localized, it is an issue that cannot be left without attention.

Good luck and I look forward to future videos.

Walt Hoover

 

[Bob Bradley]

Almost guaranteed on the rotted core. The yards that installed these windlasses typically did a poor job. Mine had been installed completely dry - no bedding whatsoever. Guess what happened. Oh, and yes, I had to use the BFH approach to get the wildcat off (or more precisely, pound the shaft and windlass body down into the anchor rode locker). Be sure to leave the big nut on when you do, or you will damage the threads an the shaft. Here's where I am on my project:

 

[Bob Bradley]

Got a good coat of resin over and into the replaced end grain then ran out of warm weather. I'll finish the job in March.

 

[Looking Glass]

Got a good coat of resin over and into the replaced end grain then ran out of warm weather. I'll finish the job in March.

View attachment 46989

A buddy of mine had a similar problem and he did the core replacement from below deck. I m hoping to get away with that. Of course it might not be possible if the core is rotted when the bolts for the bow pulpit come through.

 

[Looking Glass]

Hello Ed,

I just watched your latest video. I cannot help with the windlass but I can feel for you on the possible wet core under the pulpit. I am in the process of fixing mine. I can almost guarantee that the coring in the pulpit under the teak treads on each side has turned to mush. The screws holding the treads down were not sealed very well and allowed water to enter. My pulpit is off and coring repaired with PVC. Once you have the galley maid out drill some test holes from in side to check the core, I found about 15 square feet of bad core that will be done as soon as the weather starts to warm. You are into it this far and I hope the damage is very localized, it is an issue that cannot be left without attention.

Good luck and I look forward to future videos.

Walt Hoover

I am hoping it is localized enough that I can do it from below deck. The weather will not be good here in Philly until April.

 

[oscarvan]

I am hoping it is localized enough that I can do it from below deck. The weather will not be good here in Philly until April.

It's ALWAYS more rot than you think.

I have had resin in my hair. I don't recommend it. Plus working upside down in there you are going to hate yourself after about a half hour. Don't do it. Up top will be so much easier on your -not 25 year old anymore- body. Not to mention the mess below. If you're not confident in your skills to make it look good hire someone to do the finish layers, you're not talking a lot of hours.

 

[Bob Bradley]

I did not want to be working overhead with resin. I had the boat shrink wrapped, and on a 40 degree sunny day, its at least 50 in there. I put a Mr Heater Big Buddy up in the V-berth and leave the anchor locker door open. I run it on high and the lower skin of the deck is fairly warm to the touch. I did mix the resin a tad hot and it went off just fine and hardened up nice. The same with the thickened stuff that I troweled in place to bed the end grain. On one slightly cooler day I put a 2nd Big Buddy up on the bow with me under the cover and after 15 minutes I had to turn it off, as it was getting uncomfortably warm. I could probably finish the job with the two heaters even in the 30 degree weather we're having now in CT, but I don't want to have to grind the fiberglass under the cover, so I'm waiting til spring to finish.

 

[oscarvan]

2nd Big Buddy up on the bow with me under the cover and after 15 minutes I had to turn it off, as it was getting uncomfortably warm

Watch your air supply!