HELP!! Putting her on blocks

[danshat]

I am putting my baby in the backyard while I complete her rebuild. I have absolutely no clue how to put her on blocks. Would it be better to spend the extra money on the boat stands or just use cinder blocks? any help, as always, is appreciated.

 

[Capt.Erich]

Cinder blocks are not the best choice even on a limited budget. They have a potential for cracking and therefore breaking. They should never be used under the keel of a boat of that size. The best choice is to use jackstands. If your budget it that tight, you would be better served by using large wood blocks or railroad ties under the keel and stacked wood cribbing in strategic locations. I have a 34 Sport Cruiser that is essentially the same hull. You should have at least 3 stands or cribbing points on each side to ensure the stability while out of the water. Are you keeping your boat at a boat yard? Most yards will provide jack stands.

 

[Trojan]

You did not say if you plan to shore the boat in the yard every year. I have done it both ways. By far the stands are the quickest and the easiest. Plus you can move them if you are doing any bottom work. You will still need blocks and wood shims for the keel. For a 34 you need 4 stands. I have 6 on my 43. I had them made for $65. bucks each. I think WM sells them for around $85.bucks depending on height. The only thing you need to watch for is the stand height. I store on stone so I place my stands on 3/4 X 3' X 3' treated plywood. The stands take up lots of room to store. They don't stack. The blocks stack, but you need lots of wood blocking material and about 32 to 40 blocks for the stands. Plus the keel blocks. So its kind of a draw. Blocks take longer to shore because you have to find the correct wood shims and you still need the plywood under the blocks. At the club its stands only and at the marina its what ever you want. Depending who shores the boat. I shore boats for the club and I love the stands. For me that's the only way to go. Cement blocks are heavy, ties rot and are heavy. Don't use cinder block. I don't think they make them any more. I use all treated wood for shimming.
BILL

 

[Boatsb]

Most of the weight is on the keel and that needs to be a solid wood block ( 3 or so) and to spread the weight and stress add some additional lengths of strong boards if the keel blocks are small.. For the sides stands do work best and you chain between the opposite sides to prevent them from moving. Since you are working on the boat I suggest 3-4 each side and do not cut corners. If the boat takes a roll while on the hard it's going to leave a mark on both you and the boat.

You didn't say how it was getting there. If you can have it blocked by a professional. Not only will you get someone who has more experiance ( hopefully) but it should be covered by their insurance if something goes wrong.

 

[67hat34c]

Do exactly what scott says, this is the only way to block a boat. Who ever is hauling it to your place will have blocking material and am sure they will make a deal with you to lease it for a nominal amount.

 

[34Hatt]

You want to block at the stern in the center and then 3-4 more spots along the keel. 4 stands will do it but 6 is better specially when painting bottom you can always move one on each side. My marina puts us on blocks along the keel and 4 stands for a 34C. I have been blocked like this for 7 years and have done all sorts of work no problem. The biggest worry is the ground you are blocked on!!!! If its soft use plywood under everything to spread the load and check it as time goes by. I check my own stands at the marina and the boats next to me through out the winter. I don't rely on the marina because they set it and forget it. All the boat that I have seen fall is after heavy rains or someone running into them.

 

[Trojan]

If you don't block the boat on cement blocks with wood top and underneath, and we block 2 blocks high. You will play hell trying to work on the bottom. We have never had a boat roll. I place keel blocks, one 12 inches from the end of the keel one under the motors and one every 6 ft after that. A boat with big motors would get 2 sets of blocks under the motors. 4 stands are normal for under 36 ft. after that you need more. It is normal for who ever transports the boat to shore it. But you sometimes are required to provide the shoring. Depending on your agreement. Most transporters will not let you shore it. If your unsure, have the transporter shore and supply the shoring.
Then they will be responsible for it.

BILL

 

[NAN-PO 41]

Get a copy of the original owners manual from Hatteras if you don't already have one. The graving plans are in it. ( a diagram of where to put the keel blocks ) If you can't wait perhaps someone here with a 34 could fax you a copy. ( I have the 41tc and if anyone needs it pm me )
NEVER use cinder blocks as keel blocking they can crack when put under a load. Solid wood blocks under the keel and stands to balance the boat. The height of the blocking will depend on stand height. Here in the Boston area the boat hauler blocks the boat and is responsible for that being done properly. Talk to your hauler and iron out any questions ahead of time.
PS the newer version of the Brownell stands are designed to stack when not in use.
Fred

 

[REBrueckner]

If this is a one time affair, likely wood blocks, such as pressure treated lumber, is a good choice. Especially if you have some available or can reuse them for landscaping. A 6" x 6" by eight ft is about $29 at home cheapo... 4" x 4" by eight feet are about $7. (I just bought some for a back yard project.) You can't have too much support nor can you spread the weight too much to avoid ruining a blacktop drivaeway.

Also consider what work you want to do....the more work on the bottom the more you'll want to block your boat high for easy (non bending over) access. Usually the boat will be first rested on blocks under the keel, then the supports placed along the hull sides. Heaviest load is in the engine area, maybe fuel tanks. You'll want to be sure the boat has good supports from the stern forward and forward past the engine weight. Also consider the surface you'll be using...dirt/bluestone/blacktop...

Chaining some supports together under the keel guarantees they can't pop out if thawing/freezing cycles are expected.

 

[Starman]

How is this boat being unloaded ?

Crane/hydraulic trailer ?

definitely need boat stands. Like everything else, steel has went up, and so have these.

Measure from the hull down to the keel, add about 12 inches.

This will determine the height of adjustable stands you will need.

If memory serves me correctly , you will need 2 mb1 and 4 sb2 stands made by Brownell.

You will need at the very least, 12 feet of 6X6 or 8X8


With 35,000 lbs over your head while working on the hull is not the time to worry about price !