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Hand Rails

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Photolomy

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Jun 29, 2018
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
Seven made me finally deal with my hand rails. To be honest, they were low on my list, till I saw how well his came out, so I finally bit the bullet and hired my next door boat neighbor to refinish them. He is into it and all of his teak is finished nicely. I went with Cetol rather than varnish to save on labor. He gave me both options, Cetol was 1/2 the cost. They also have a version of Cetol now that gives a better Teak look (not as light as the original version). Previously, the hand rails were always the first thing people noticed when they came on the boat. I guess that will still be the case, but for a better reason.:) I was surprised that they look this good now. They were weathered gray before.

Before ...

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After ...

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Refinishing the hand rails was one of the few cosmetic things we did with so many functional things that needed to be done. It makes me happy every time I get on the boat. We used Awlwood. Yours look beautiful.
 
"It makes me happy every time I get on the boat."

If I had realized the difference, I would have done it earlier.
 
I’m glad I inspired you. They look fantastic. How many coats did he put on?
 
What was his process ?
 
That’s one of my projects planned for this season. Still haven’t decided what to use.
 
Awlwood is great stuff. Holds up really well.
 
What was his process ?

He sanded them to remove any prior finishes, then sanded them smooth, and then applied 3 coats of Cetol (Teak variety). No sanding in between. I'll get more details from him tomorrow, if there are any. I know the advantage of Cetol is that you don't have to sand between coats and it takes fewer coats. He generally only uses varnish on his stuff, but said he was impressed by the newer Cetol product. I was expecting to see a more yellowish lighter color when I returned to the boat. The thought crossed my mind that he misunderstood me and had varnished them instead, but that would have been impossible. He didn't have enough time (he did it in 5 days, maybe 5 hours a day). Especially at these temps.
 
Thanks, looks great
 
Let’s mark the date in our calendars and talk one year two years and three years down the road to see which seems to last longer.
 
I was set on epifanes but I heard it was a pain to work with for some reason.
 
I found it very easy to work with. First coat was thinned 50% second coat 25% and then the rest were thinned about 5%. The only thing I’d say negative about it is it seem like it took more than 24 hours to dry. Now you don’t have to sand in between coats on the one that I put on however I did it anyway because that’s just who I am. By the way I used a boars hair brush and not a foam rubber brush. It flowed and leveled extremely well and actually look fantastic after three coats. However I put on eight.
 

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I found it very easy to work with. First coat was thinned 50% second coat 25% and then the rest were thinned about 5%. The only thing I’d say negative about it is it seem like it took more than 24 hours to dry. Now you don’t have to sand in between coats on the one that I put on however I did it anyway because that’s just who I am. By the way I used a boars hair brush and not a foam rubber brush. It flowed and leveled extremely well and actually look fantastic after three coats. However I put on eight.
Now, that's anal. Awesome 👍👌😎
 
I've used the woodfinish product before. It is their rapid build product, but it does require top coating with regular epiphanes varish.

I prefer to just use the regular varnish. And I don't sand between coats unless its been over 24hrs.
 
I've used the woodfinish product before. It is their rapid build product, but it does require top coating with regular epiphanes varish.

I prefer to just use the regular varnish. And I don't sand between coats unless its been over 24hrs.

The formulas must have changed because this one I listed is the finish coat as well. I called and spoke to their local rep and asked that question a couple of months ago. I just went thrall of the specs and it says the same.
 
Epiphanes on mine, average 15 coats except for the companionway steps that get top coated with Awlwood mixed with micro glass beads so they're more durable and not slippery.
Disclaimer: I spent time as a teenage working as the finish varnish guy in a large boatyard, after spending my childhood scraping, sanding, and varnishing my father's all teak sailboat(s). That, and making making several hundred surfboards at about the same time convinced me I never wanted to do either again and to pay others in the future.
I have a Gal that has been taking care of all my varnish for 20+ years, her former partner for the 20 years before that. Varnish is all she does, and she works alone. I don't have to tell her when it's time as she works on boats in my marina regularly and keeps an eye out. She shows up and adds a maintenance coat to everything every few months, so the varnish always looks perfect. A couple years ago she re did the entire interior of the boat - even the bottoms and backs of the drawers, she does wonderful work - while we we in Hawaii for a couple months.
Nothing in the world is more beautiful than perfectly varnished teak.....that I didn't have to do myself....
To me it's worth the money....
 
Currently I’m 1/2 way through doing mine with Awlwood. Also redoing the boat hooks and flagpoles so they will match.
 
Send photos when done.
 
The formulas must have changed because this one I listed is the finish coat as well. I called and spoke to their local rep and asked that question a couple of months ago. I just went thrall of the specs and it says the same.

I would top coat it. You might not be happy with the longevity if you don't.
 
Awlwood is amazing, and you can hot coat it. They say you should not, but I was able to.
 

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