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Gore Tex Shaft Packing...?

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Buccaneer

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Jun 30, 2006
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
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60' MOTOR YACHT (1987 - 1989)
I know, I know, "It's only a dumb question if you DON'T ask it...Dummy!"

So, there are two kinds of the GoreTex dripless shaft packing. And, no I don't remember what the two kinds are. What are they?

Then there's the question of what size to get for a 48MY ('83). 1/2? 5/8? 3/4?

Answers, Oh Wise Ones?



(I find it's best not to even pretend I know what I'm doing...)
 
Gore GFO is the one I have used.
 
I started using Duramax Ultra-X made by Duramax Marine which is a relatively new product. They are the manufacturer of Johnson heavy duty commercial stuffing boxes. Seems to work fine so far for rudders and shafts. They use their own patented fibers, similar to Gore fibers, maybe better. This product is more widely distributed than Gore GFO.
 
I've had GFO 1/2" X 1/2" on my shaft logs (48 cnv, 2.5" shafts) for 4 years. No problems and only had to snug them once. Thx.
 
Use GFO - it's great stuff.

BUT BE CAREFUL! When you first install it, DO NOT tighten it up to a few drips per minute like you normally would. The following may sound like a lot of running and then slow tightening, but a number of forum members have tightened it too much at first and had it heat up too much and then it's impossible to undo that and you have to start over. Mine now runs cool and basically doesn't drip much at all. After I got it seated right, we put 6,000 miles on the boat with zero problems and very minor dripping.

WHen you first install it, just tighten it to one drip per second or more (that's lots of dripping).

Then go out and run it for 15 minutes. While somebody else pilots the boat, at hull speed or more, check the packing gland with your hand on the metal (it should be cool to slightly warm but not be too warm to be uncomfortable). GFO transfers heat to the metal gland more than waxed flax does. If it stays cool enough, back at the dock re-tighten it to one drip every 5 or 10 seconds. You may find that it has reduced dripping on its own during the run-in.

Then run it again, check warmth again and re-tighten again to one drip every 2 or 3 seconds. Again, it may have reduced dripping on its own during the run-in.

Then leave it dripping slowly and run it for a cruise or two, like a few hours or more of running. Then tighten it to one drip per minute at the dock. After a number of cruises you can check warmth and gradually tighten a little more until it hardly drips at all. After that, you're probably good for many years of almost dripless running.

Doug Shuman
 
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GFO - great stuff and now drip-free at all times (for the past 2 years) on our 53MY. The boxes are lukewarm at most and our engine bilges stay totally dry.

BUT...

Follow Doug's advice, above. If you adjust it like regular flax packing, you get to do it all over! You cannot loosen the packing once it is too tight.

I had the nuts OFF the fittings and the flange slid up the shaft and still couldn't get any water to drip in after ignoring the instructions and tightening so it wouldn't leak sitting in the dock first. The box got so hot running that it would burn your hand.

So follow Doug's advice!
 
Looking for some advice. I just re-packed my shaft stuffing box with Gore GFO. 6 layers in each log. We didn't even tighten the bolts and no water is coming in. Ran the boat two miles at low speeds (1200 rpm) and they got over 300 degrees and were smoking. Even the rubber boot started bubbling hot where its clamped to the shaft. Tried backing out the nuts even more and the whole thing rotated. I am at a loss on what I should do next. They bolts weren't even tight. Any advice? What next? Looks like the bronze housing is even discolored.
 
6 layers?

6 rings seems a bit much. Also was it easy to push in to the stuffing box? Sounds too tight somewhere.

Now you probably need to pull the shafts from the couplings and replace the hoses.
 
I agree with Scott. I didn't think there was enough space to get six rings of properly sized packing into the gland. Maybe four.
 
Yes we put in 6 rings. Should we remove a couple I suppose? They went in nice and easy. Anyone know what happens to this stuff when it overheats?
 
it sounds like you compromised the hoses. Its not a take a few out job now.
 
Our shafts and rudders on our 1981 61 are all 1/2". I run duramax gortex on the rudders and conventional packing on the mains. From our experience and what I have heard the PTFE/GoreTex packing gets kindof hot on the shafts and starts to leak a lot and is not ideal for that application.
 
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I started using Duramax Ultra-X made by Duramax Marine which is a relatively new product. They are the manufacturer of Johnson heavy duty commercial stuffing boxes. Seems to work fine so far for rudders and shafts. They use their own patented fibers, similar to Gore fibers, maybe better. This product is more widely distributed than Gore GFO.

+1 this is exactly what i am running for rudder seals.

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/duramax-marine-duramax-ultra-x
 
Yes we put in 6 rings. Should we remove a couple I suppose? They went in nice and easy. Anyone know what happens to this stuff when it overheats?

How many did you take out originally?? I think ours took 4. IIRC there are three on the shafts.
 
Has anyone changed out the packing on the rudder boxes with the boat in the water? Or would this be ill advised?
 
I have changed the packings on my 1979 53' MY rudder boxes twice in the water. Not that much water comes in with the packings out. Of course just have the new ones pre cut in advance.Once you remove the old ones and put the first new ring in the water all but stops coming in.
 
I have changed the packings on my 1979 53' MY rudder boxes twice in the water. Not that much water comes in with the packings out. Of course just have the new ones pre cut in advance.Once you remove the old ones and put the first new ring in the water all but stops coming in.
Right. No big deal at all. Just don’t be unbolting anything above the shelf or it will become a very big deal.
 
Has anyone changed out the packing on the rudder boxes with the boat in the water? Or would this be ill advised?
I’ve done it. Not too big of a deal. Just be prepared with your replacement rings.
 
I’d like to share a link to more on the subject. Interesting reading (to me) on caution on use of PB Blaster, proper stuffing box hose, moldable packing temp issues, importance of drip, handy home made installation tool and a alarming caution on graphite impregnated packing. I realize this site was put up well before my time as a boat owner so apologies if already posted. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box&page=1
 
I have used Western Pacific moldable packing for 15 years now and would not use anything else.Install run it an hour take up a half turn and you want have to touch it for years.
Bob
 

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