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Galley Refurb

  • Thread starter Thread starter Capt Chad
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Capt Chad

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Dec 6, 2013
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218
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
46' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1974 - 1981)
We are looking to start a galley refurb this month. I have looked back through all the old related threads. Most were in reference to a larger MY and most had 240v in the galley. Thiis is for our 46c that only has 120v power.


So, we want to pull out the old Princess 120v range/stovetop, relocate and upgrade the old microwave sitting on the counter and replace or recover the old countertop. The idea is to get more counter space, more usability and have it look better.

I believe my options are limited to a 120v rangetop and some kind of microwave or microwave/convection combo. Of course, unless we do some panel upgrades the microwave is limited to what we can run off of a 15a circuit.

The only microwave/convection combos I can find are 1000w. I'm thinking 900w is about the max for that 15a circuit. Has anyone found a more compatible unit that draws less juice? Or has anyone ran a 1000w unit off of 15amps?

We will be relocating whatever kind of microwave we get into the upper cabinet area. I have a very skilled finish carpenter on the project. Would I be better off to do a built in microwave or a counter top and build a hole for it with a lip? I like the idea of easy change out with modern appliances but I want it to look nice.

Has anyone done similar on a 46c or similar with limited space and power? I really just want to do this once so your experiences are helpful.

Thanks
 
My situation is different from yours since I used the 240V power available on my 52C. But the design goals were the same.

I suggest you determine the wire gauge used by Hatteras for the galley circuit(s); chances are it will support 20A, and if so you may be happier with a new 20A breaker and a unit like the Bosch 500 Series 1.6 cu ft. HMC54151UC which is 1KW microwave and 1.9KW including convection.
https://www.friedmansappliance.com/...ss-steel-electric-speed-oven-hmc54151uc-94266

In my case, I replaced the Princess oven with a Sharp combo and used a Bosch induction cooktop but it took a lot of shoehorning to get 24" units into the space.

I have bought and used several Chinese 4 burner induction cooktop because I can repair them, but after my second failure I got over it and just only buy Bosch or Miele.

For 120V you may be limited to 2 burner induction, but the Ikea single portable unit Tilreda looks suspiciously like a Bosch which would be better quality; maybe you can stuff in two.
 
Before you start I would find a marine electrician and look into the cheapest way to get 220 v into your galley. This will give you a lot more choices for a more efficient and integrated galley.

In 1966 when Fanfare was new we did have 220 v but only for the stove. It was on a separate input on the toerail. Everything else was, and mostly still is, 110 v including air conditioning. The problem was that almost no docks or marinas had 220 v available then so we only had 30 amps available, often just a standard 2 prong plug, only 15 amps. We cooked on toaster ovens, electric frying pans etc. The circuit breakers blew so often they literally wore out. We often had to start the generator to keep up. We had three identical shore power lines all with 30 amp connectors. The one time I accidentally mixed them up with the 220 v line I blew out several 110 v lightbulbs whose filaments melted through their glass envelopes. Could have been the expensive AC or the refrigerator. Lucky!

You will probably need a new 220 v toerail socket, maybe a 220 v shore line depending on what you have now, a 220 v breaker subpanel somewhere hardwired to your new stove and microwave.
An induction cooktop might be a good addition.

I think you would be a lot happier looking into this. It was really frustrating trying to get by with inadequate voltage. It might be cheaper for this fix than you might expect. Good luck!
 
Actually, I agree with Jim on getting 220V installed if you can.

Rather than a separate plug on the toerail, also consider just changing out your existing input for a new one and simply routing the old wiring to one of the phases, and the new stuff to a new aux panel.

The biggest relief when I went to 220V was not no longer have to do a mental inventory of what was on when using higher power stuff (is the hot water heater on right now?).
 
Upgrading to 240 is going to be a big job…

I have a GE convection / microwave which runs off a 15 amp breaker. No problem. I have a two burner glass cooktop which 240v but there are 120v versions. Or better, induction. I switched to induction cooktop on the 116 I run and love it. Much faster and less residual heat in the galley.
 
on my 46c the microwave was mounted in the wall, up high, opposite the stove, the back of it was in a cabinet above the bed in the masterstateroom. i am not sure if the cabinet in the master was original or if someone added it but part of it was for the microwave and the other area was cabinet space for the master. mine was a 1977 model and had a lot of modifications done to her before i purchesed her. she still had the princess stove/oven combo.
 
I just did our 46 last winter. I have plenty to add, just not in a position to do so right now. One question. Trying to save or replace the oven?
 
We spend a lot of time on our 53 and pulled out the stovetop for a portable induction and / or electric skillet. Over 5 years and don't miss it. And we cook a lot.

It's great to have the counter space and the induction top is 3 ft away hiding next to the fridge.

A small convention oven / microwave is going to do a better job as an oven unless you are try to cook a turkey. When the stove breaks (and it will) I can replace it in 5 mins. Want to cook on the aft deck you move it.
 
I've done it twice now. First on my 79 43C then on my current 86 45C. The 43 was all 120v. I put in a Ramblewood 2 burner cooktop and a 120V small Verona wall oven. It was a tight fit, but worked.

The 45C had a sort of 240V stove. They ran 240 to it but it split in the stove with one leg handling the burners and the other leg handling the oven. I ran another neutral line in and put in the two separate appliances. I used the Ramblewood cooktop again, but the Verona was no longer available. I did find a 120v small wall oven that fit, but can't remember the make. I can check for you if you are interested.

20201112_170625.webp
20201112_170526.webp
 
So yes, the princess combo is going away. The door doesn't close all the way, and it looks pretty bad.

I hadn't thought about converting to 240v. It's a possibility. Question is, right now the princess is set up so it will only work either the range or the oven at one time. I am assuming this is because of the power supply. SO, if I go to 240 and a separate range top and built in oven will they both run at the same time off the ships service? I don't like having anything on the boat that requires a flow chart for the Boss. As of now, the only combination on the boat that will trip a breaker is a few items on in the galley and the Inverter/Charger throwing 80 amps at the batteries when we first fire the generator in the AM. And I can remedy that by dialing back the charge rate just a bit.

I think a 1000w micro/convection placed up and into the cabinetry and a flat top induction range will work. But the idea of going 240 and picking up a built in oven is intriguing. We do cook a lot on the boat.

Thanks for the ideas this far.
 
I could not find an oven that would fit into the space so I gutted out the burner section one conductor at a time. Built a new vent and put controls on new Corian faceplate. The cooktop was one I found searching online. On a site called webstaurantstore.com I found Avantco commercial induction cooktops. Needed the oven, cooktop just needed to be okay. To our suprise the cooktop works as well as if not better than gas. Instant heat and instant drop in temp if too high. Huge unexpected upgrade. 240 model is ID18DB and 120 is ID18DBA.

Added corian including 1/4" skin backsplash. Could not find a sink so refurbished ours. Was in much better shape than we thought once cleaned up. I refused to get rid of the original Tappan refrigerator because it works so well. Took the doors off, cleaned them up, and had them wrapped. They look new. Detailed the interior and used "plasticoat" from home depot to make the wire shelves new again. That was a crapshoot but in one year it has held up well.

On the microwave if you have a viable option to do in cabinet do so now. Also at 1000W the draw is only 8.33 amps, well withing the breaker range. Another factor is you Hatteras wiring is overkill. No worries here. Another space saver (maker?) is we had a sink insert made along with the Corian tops.
 
Here is one side of my galley up. GE convection/micro/hood (vented outside) and the two burner glass cooktop

I don’t think you can find a 120v oven except for convection. I ve had this one for about 10 years and it s great. I cook and bake a lot! I don’t have any issue running both the oven and the cook top

The ninja grill/air fryer is my favorite appliance. The grill function with probe is fantastic.
 

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Btw, if anyone needs them, I have 2 working takeout original stoves. One is 120, the other 240. Located in CT.
 
My Sharp combo microwave convection oven runs on 15amp. I also found that Fisher and Pakel has a fridge that is the same size as the old Kelvinator and will fit through the door of a convertible. SCUSI_Galley.webpCounter 2.webp
 
I've got that same F&P fridge in my boat. Perfect fit.
 
There are two companies making battery, assisted induction ranges, and stove cooktops.These both run on 120 V but offer the full power of a 240 V.Naturally, they are quite expensive.The range is this one: https://copperhome.com/products/charlieThe cooktop is this one: https://www.impulselabs.com/productBoth of these units are quite large. However, they might be helpful to someone trying to run large appliances, off inverter or solar.Good luck with the project
 
Drewread, the cabinet to the left of the fridge does open. The dimensions are very similar to the original fridge.
 
I m not a huge fan of cheap appliances for obvious safety reasons but…

A few years ago I opted for brand name 5 burner induction during a galley upgrade on the boat I run. I figured a well known brand would be better…. It crapped out after just a month and after 2 repair attempts that didn’t solve the issue, we were told the warranty was void because it was installed on a boat!

The new $1300 cooktop ended up in the marina dumpster and I replaced it by an unknown brand found on amazon for $500…. It s been 3 years now and it s working flawlessly. So unknown cheap brands aren’t so bad.

Speaking of which we have an IKEA induction 4 burners on land which so far has been great
 
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