Galley Maid Windlass Motor Slow and Circuit Breaker Tripping

[SKYCHENEY]

Sorry about that. Its been a while since I had one apart. The lower clutch plate has the set screw but the part below that with the springs is held by the key. You are right.

Try spraying some WD40 or PB Blaster on the shaft and let it sit. Then tap it with a rubber mallet and stick a couple of pry bars under it. Tapping it may get it to start moving.

 

[Westfield 11]

If at all possible, heat it with a torch or heat gun before treating with penetrating oil. The different rates of expansion and contraction when cooling will allow the oil to go deeper between the two parts and make it more effective.

We are in the same place: our GalleyMaid is lifting slowly and occasionally popping the breaker. We had to forego anchoring this year traveling south to Florida since I didn’t trust it anymore. It was rebuilt in 2018 and I R&R’d the above deck components for cleaning and lubricating a month ago. I’d have changed the oil, but I have shore power cable reels in front of both access openings. I’ll have a young and agile boatyard tech take them apart and climb into there next week. I also want to replace the shackle connecting the chain to the boat with enough Dyneema to be able to cut the anchor loose from above the deck, and replace the deteriorating hawsepipe that keeps the chain from free falling when stowing, and tighten up the seawater wash down fitting, and replace the dead light bulb in there with a bright LED, and service the CableMaster reels and motors!

 

[rwaldrop13]

This is a near and dear to me topic as well. When we bought our Hatteras, the anchor windlass motor was detached and laying in the forward head. We had it rebuilt at Raz in Ft Lauderdale - It was not only seized, but completely burned up inside. They were only able to give us a minimal core credit, it was in such bad shape. However, I also have to replace 2 corroded foot switches on the bow as they're completely rotted also. Looks like I will be breaking out the sawzall to cut off the studs then putting an impact on the bolts. If someone with a Galley Maid 24volt anchor windlass can send me a picture of their motor showing the wire connections I would appreciate it. I have the wiring diagram, but PO did not take a picture before he dropped motor out. Here is what I have to work with.

 

[scottinsydney]

++++

Over the past few days the sludge oil has drained out and there was about a quart (one litre) in the container. I added the detergent chemical (1 fluid oz) in the quart bottle of new 80W-90 gear oil and mixed.

The oil bottle had a pull out spout that just fit the top hole so it was relatively easy to squirt the entire contents in. Rick at Galley Maid says the sump takes two quarts, but I was only able to replace half of that.

I went upstairs to the windlass and powered up and down. It has never run so smooth! So we will leave the new oil and detergent to do its job for a few months and and repeat.

If you have never done this job before, beware, anything and everything will smell of used gear oil. Horrid job.

 

[scottinsydney]

Two months on and I have now drained the new oil with the detergent added. The oil was milky, but much freer flowing. Certainly the windlass has enjoyed the replacement oil.

I then refilled the gearbox using the top hole. Although not technically correct and I should fill from the bottom hole until oil flows out the top, it was easier to do with the space available. I then squeezed in some more for good measure.

According to Galley Maid correct gear oil is 80W90. I reckon it takes about 1.3 litres or 1.5 quarts. The gear oil bottles come with a clear pull out spout which fits the gearbox's fill holes. Outboard gearbox oil is 90W so this is probably a good choice too.

So we will leave this latest oil in for a year and then change again.

Happy New Year to all.