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Fuel Tank Issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter JLR
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Any chance the fuel fill was left on loose before/during a rough water trip and all the water is from one incident?
 
On my 6V-92TA engines there is a combination fuel cooler and transmission oil cooler. Raw (salt) water runs the length of the cooler through a bunch of tubes on the way to the exhaust shower head. My cooler developed leaks which affected both the transmission oil and the fuel. This first showed up as about a half cup of water in one Racor bowl per day. It took me a while to connect this with the raw water system. Once I did I sent the cooler out to be rebuilt. THIS WAS A GIANT MISTAKE!! Once these tubes start to go the cooler should be replaced. It is unlikely that only one of the tubes failed--the rest are close behind. Two years ago as I commissioned the boat I found that my transmission oil was the consistency and color of toothpaste. Another tube had let go. A new fuel/transmission cooler and lots of flushing with oil got us going again. I next replaced the other engine's cooler as they were the same age, about 24 years old since I repowered.

My old coolers each had a single zinc mounted on top. This meant that when the engines were off only about a half inch of zinc was immersed in the raw water. Each year this corroded to look like an upside down mushroom, only that tip expanding as the zinc was used up. The new coolers have the zinc on the bottom so hopefully the entire zinc is immersed and protecting the cooler. I'll see.

The big question is how the raw water get into the fluids at all. There is a lot of volume in the raw water system but not much pressure. DD measured this pressure when setting my new engines up but I don't have this data at hand. Let's call it about 7 psi. My fuel pumps put put about 80 psi at the pump. Part goes to the injectors at 1,000 psi but I figure this all goes to the combustion chambers. Probably 2/3 of the fuel cools the injectors and returns to the tank via the fuel cooler. I don't think this pressure is regulated at all beyond perhaps a drilled orifice on the way back to the tank.

I have Twin Disc transmissions. Unlike Allisons these do not always have high pressures when running in neutral. My transmission oil was contaminated within a three mile run at idle as the oil had just been changed.

It may be that raw water can flow into the coolers via damaged tubes a) into the diesel fuel when running at planing speeds (2150 rpm) when raw water pressure is at its highest and for extended times; and b) into the transmission oil when in neutral (525 rpm). In both these cases there should have been some oil in the exhaust had I thought to look. I probably had a minor leak in the fuel cooler side from the small amount of water in my Racor each day. The transmission leak must have been major to do so much damage in a short time. I hope I caught it before damaging my transmission.

These coolers are heavy weldments filled with thin-walled tubes. The oil and fuel circulate around these tubes. The outer shells are probably fine and should last forever but I don't think it would be easy to separate the shell to replace the tubes. I made a mistake in expecting mine could be rebuilt. Get new ones. It's lots cheaper. I also wasted several years figuring this out before learning my lesson.
 
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The fuel and gear coolers should be upstream from the engine heat exchanger. If your gear/fuel coolers are getting their cooling water supply from the outlet side of the heat exchanger, they are plumbed incorrectly.
 
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Given the great number of stories of Detroit Diesel engines experiencing overheating problems one might agree with you. I think, however, that by the time my "new" engines were manufactured in 1993 the DD engineers, perhaps under the ownership of Roger Penske, had corrected most of these problems. My engines and transmissions were purchased directly from DD and came with the fuel/transmission coolers on the downstream side of the raw water system just before the pipe to the showerhead. In the 25 years since then I have never had anything even close to an overheating condition. I think the reason is that the flow of raw cooling is so large that even in inland Florida waters the difference between the cooling water is only about 15 degrees higher between the inlet and the outlet of the heat exchanger.

As I thought about this I realized that the important thing about the DD 6-92 cooling system is that the maximum temperature should never be permitted to exceed about 190 degrees lest the rubber o-rings get cooked. Therefore the main heat exchanger, which cools both engine lubricating oil and the fresh water side of the coolant is by far the most important for engine life. So it gets the first crack at the coolest water. The fuel cooling probably isn't very critical at all. The transmission does develop some heat but not much compared to the engine (no fire). Because the engine and transmission are bolted together there is probably heat equalizing from one to the other and the designed coolers handle both. I check my transmission temps with my IR thermometer and have never noticed any great changes between engines.

I clean and check the main heat exchangers every few years. I just did not realize that the fuel/transmission coolers were an integral (and vulnerable) part of the entire engine cooling system. So I never checked them other than changing zincs. I also have never checked the turbo aftercooler because it is deep in the engine. Maybe I need to consider this, too.

Always something....
 
Never seen it done that way. My 1996 DDEC 16-92s have the coolers before the heat exchangers. The ZF gear coolers are separate and upstream from the fuel coolers. They get cooled first.
 
I finally had the cooler removed and tested by a real shop. Sure enough, it was leaking and will be replaced. Apparently, the end caps on this cooler cannot be removed so it cannot be repaired. That it is leaking is good news -- it identifies a problem that can be fixed.
 
Guess that's good news although it shouldn't have been so hard to figure out.
Probably should replace the other engine's too before it let's you down.
Or, put a set of new CAT's in her.........................
 
I finally had the cooler removed and tested by a real shop. Sure enough, it was leaking and will be replaced. Apparently, the end caps on this cooler cannot be removed so it cannot be repaired. That it is leaking is good news -- it identifies a problem that can be fixed.

That is good. Glad you got it fixed. 10 Gallons is a lot of water!
 
It sure is. Also, the cooler tested fine with 60 psi when it was tested on the engine. However, since it had to be coming from the cooler, it made sense to remove it and have it tested in a shop.
 

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