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Fuel Injector service

  • Thread starter Thread starter Reefgeorge
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 73
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There was not as much anti seize left behind as I thought. There is a step in the bore that looked liked a ring of paste. Basically brush to the threads and bore, vacuum with a plastic hose taped to the shop vac, wipe with some solvent on some lint free shop towel material wrapped around a 1/2" socket extension and vacuum again. Shiny as a monkeys hiney.

George
 
FYWAA. In speaking with a MAN distributor he suggested that if I have concerns about any crud/paint chips getting into the fuel pump connection ports for the fuel lines (facing up), then turn the engine manually to pump some fuel up and out to flush. He did say however that any decent sized paint chips should be sitting at the top and retrievable. The lines of course can be hit with compressed air or flushed with solvent before reassembly.

George
 
My Dremel kit has an attachable flexible wand that fits down into my injector ports. With various brass wire wheels, and the fabric wheels in the kit, the clean up of carbon, and nasty stuff was a breeze. I could not believe how easy and less time consuming it was. The copper washers fit perfect, and no leakage.

First tried the shotgun rifle kit with the bore cleaning brushes. Did a good job, but the availability of the Dremel accessories allowed me to find tools the perfect size.

My 2 cents.

Have a great weekend,
Tim
 
Fish Tales said:
My Dremel kit has an attachable flexible wand that fits down into my injector ports. With various brass wire wheels, and the fabric wheels in the kit, the clean up of carbon, and nasty stuff was a breeze. I could not believe how easy and less time consuming it was. The copper washers fit perfect, and no leakage.

First tried the shotgun rifle kit with the bore cleaning brushes. Did a good job, but the availability of the Dremel accessories allowed me to find tools the perfect size.

My 2 cents.

Have a great weekend,
Tim
Click to expand...

Good idea, I'll take a look.

George
 
I went to an Ace Hardware and they had some Dremel wire wheel brushes that were reverse tulip shape in brass. That hit the bases perfectly and put a shine on them. Also used Seafoam spray, which cuts carbon and also was a great lubricant. On the side walls, used the brass quarter shaped wheels that were just a tad larger than the hole. The wand on the Dremel was rigid aluminum so working up and down the tube was easy, held the Dremel with the variable speed switch in the other hand.

Take care,
Tim
 
Fish Tales said:
I went to an Ace Hardware and they had some Dremel wire wheel brushes that were reverse tulip shape in brass. That hit the bases perfectly and put a shine on them. Also used Seafoam spray, which cuts carbon and also was a great lubricant. On the side walls, used the brass quarter shaped wheels that were just a tad larger than the hole. The wand on the Dremel was rigid aluminum so working up and down the tube was easy, held the Dremel with the variable speed switch in the other hand.

Take care,
Tim
Click to expand...

Do you have a picture or link for your flexible attachment? I see a few different types and some look like the "wand" might be too wide to fit down the injector bore.

Thanks,

George
 
Sorry for the delay in response, I was out of town for the weekend. I loaned mine out but it looks like this.
42-Aluminum-Flexible-Flex-Shaft-For-Dremel-Carver-Engraver-Grinder-Rotary-Tool.webp
I will try to find a link.

Tim
 
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That second one on ebay looks just like the one I loaned out. It is just a little fatter than an ink pen.


Worked great for me, Best of luck to you.

Have a great week,
Tim
 
Everything is now going back together. Some observations:

The silver flexible dremel attachment in post #47 works well. As fishtales said I used the cup shaped wire brush for the bottom of the holes (they get shiny and really clean) and the wire wheel for the sides and threads. You still have to do some scraping on the sides with like a small screwdriver first but the wire wheel helps further clean it up and really gets the threads for the castle nut open and smooth. I used a wire bore brush for gun cleaning for the very bottom opening for the injector tip. Vacuum with a piece of hose attached to your shop vac. Last check is that an injector dry fits with no issues and a dry threaded collar spins all the way down with no issues. Then get out the anti seize and your torque wrench and go to town. Don't forget new copper seal washers (make sure the old ones came out, if not press a large screwdriver into the center and lift the old washer out) I inspected each hole with a boroscope to check progress, especially on the holes I couldn't see from the top. Lastly I spoke with the anti seize tech support. They said that the silver colored aluminum paste is fine and used a lot but the nickle based black compound is better for less galvanic problems especially if salt water becomes involved around the cooling pipes. They said that if you really want to use the best they have an upgrade based on synthetic grease. I used the plain nickle and man are those threads buttery smooth when you tighten everything back up.

George
 
Use some discretion when torquing the hold-downs. Never Seez is a pretty good lubricant and you can overtorque things easily with that on the threads.
 
If you are a ble to get a torque wrench on do you change the spec?
 
Clean threads with anti-sieze I'd say 25-50% lower torque. But that's just a WAG
 
The man manual shows applying anti seize to the threads upon re assembly so I don't know if they took that into account when they published the 93 ft lb spec. I called the engine distr who has need very helpful and they said oh we don't use anti seize on the threads do that didn't help. They also didn't agree with man corporates coolant recommendation.

George
 
In the absence of a consistent answer (even the anti seize company said just use your judgement) I went old school. I torqued the injector down to spec dry. Then I put anti seize on the threads and re torqued to the exact same nut position which implies the same holding force against the copper seal washer. Fudging a little for the likelyhood that the copper waisher probably got a little compress, I needed 12% less torque with anti seize brand nickle based compound. I suspect that other compounds will produce different results. It probably also related to thread pitch, cleanliness etc. since I don't know if my spec is dry or lubricated threads I sm going to split the difference so I won't be more that 6% off.

Here we go again with "nuts" trying to disprove science. :-)

George
 
The real truth is that torque is a horrible indicator of bolt stretch anyway. But it's easy to measure, so that's why it is used on things like engines.

More important bolted joints are checked with bolt stretch or compression (squish washers...some even squirt ink out).
 
And I could not torque two of the anyhow. No combination of oddities would fit so they are my best guess with a not so special wrench.

George
 
All back in. Some final thoughts. Make sure that Tha flat seal surface at the bottom of the hole is clean. Drop the copper seal washer in and check that's it's flat and it's dead clean on the bottom. Dry fit the injector and pressure screw. Make sure the injector is loose and clinks on the bottom. Spin down the dry pressure screw and make sure it captures the injector and that the threads are clean enough. Remove apply anti seize and torque to spec. If you have to add a crowd foot. Shorten your grip for the same effective torque wrench length or lower the setting according to the formula. I also put small pieces of tape over the return holes and peeled them off right before attaching the return rail to keep anti seize out. Happy injecting.

George
 
Mike36c said:
Here on the East coast Diesel Injection of Martin County are the best. Ask for John, (772) 283-8999
Click to expand...


Thank you for the recommendation, John was easy to work with and very responsive on every single call I made to him. I have not run the boat yet at full tilt but the injectors are working great at lower RPM's (completely solved my low RPM smoking condition) and his pricing was very fair.

George
 
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