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Freestyle needs turbo advice

carolinacoast

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2007
Messages
731
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' EXTENDED DECKHOUSE (1983 - 1988)
All: Bruce made it safely to Key West from Tampa, and needs advice on how to manage to make the port turbo safe for a return trip. KW is definitely resource constrained this weekend, and here are the pictures he texted me. Please let the experts share their opinions.
Sourcing a mechanic for disassembly and swap for a rebuilt unit might be ideal, but please chime in on thoughts and recommendations. Thank you. Bruce will reply to the thread, just does not have IMG951360_20210507_164352[1].webpIMG951361_20210507_164352[1].webpIMG951362_20210507_164352[1].webpbandwidth for the pics.
 
The pics don't really say much, except he's got a leak.

He's going to have to strip that insulation off and see where it's actually coming from. In the absence of parts or mechanics the only suggestion I can offer is JB Weld and don't run it hard.
 
Probably a broken clamp. They are not always easy to find. I always keep a couple of spares of each type on board. Just dont run it so hard that the leaking soot is inhaled into the air intake. I would run at hull speed until fixed myself
 
Running with an exhaust leak will clog an inter or after cooler.
 
Mal, thank you for posting the pictures.

Others, thank you for giving them a look and sharing your thoughts.

So, now that the motor has cooled off and I can poke around at it, let me see if I understand the advice:

1. Peel back the burnt insulation and see if I can identify the source of the leak. I assume it will reveal with scoring or 'where the black stuff originates'.

2. I have hose clamps aboard for just this problem if it is a broken clamp. I have never worked in that area of the motor. Any do's and don't's for refastening?

3. How does the JB 5 product work for this?

4. I will see if Amazon Prime can deliver the exhaust tape. Any advice on use?

5. Plan is to make it as safe as possible to return from Key West to Tampa at 1100 rpms and 8 knots just like how we got here. It takes about 24 hours and is a lot of fun except at night when your mind starts thinking of engine room fires. Should I consider a one engine return (a/k/a) "a Freebird Delivery"?

Thank you again for your help. This is the reason to own a classic Hatteras.

Bruce

Freestyle
1986 62 CPMY (54MY with ext)
Tampa
 
JB Weld is only to fill in missing material. If it's a broken clamp, just replace the clamp.

That one engine thing may not be a bad idea if you can't perform an effective repair.
 
Remove the insulation blanket from the turbo, to find up what the problem is, if it is a broken clamp, you have to replace it or if you do not have a spare wrap some exhaust tape on it a and do not go over 1100 rpm. The same goes if you have an erosion on the manifold. You can also go with only one engine but I do not if the transmision will heat up because of the prop free rotating . At low rpm the turbos are not working that hard.
 
If you need a turbo repaired I can tell you who not to use. That's a PM conversation.

Suffice it to say all future turbo work will ship from Florida to Derek (avenger) in NY.
 
With the dry turbos, that clamp is a special V clamp that squeezes the turbo and the exhaust tube together.
An exhaust patch putty (NAPA?) can be used like a gasket maker or cover patch till you get home.
Your pictures do show the leak but it may not be as bad as it looks.
IMO, keep your foot out of it and ER blowers on. You may not find any carbon on the air filters, but plan on replacing them anyway.
 
Can someone provide the exhaust clamp part spec for an 8v92 and who could ship it Monday? SAMS?
 
It is going to depend on what type turbo you have. They should have a tag on them with a model number. Mine have 3 clamps per turbo and all 3 are different sizes. Intake, middle and exhaust riser clamps. If you can find a marine engine place down there that sells Detroit parts they should be able to locate for you.
 
Repair update.

Hose clamp was intact but nut missing. Corrosion on turbo side made refastening tough and short term but I got the clamp to mate the turbo to the exhaust riser.

Wrapped reassembly with thick adhesive exhaust tape.

Ran stainless 'wire ties' from two machined holes on the turbo side to the Stainless support for the exhaust side riser to squeeze the two components together and hold in place.

Plan is to run slow with ER Blowers on and if the leak reappears, then run on one engine intermittently turning on the damaged one to lube the transmission.

Thanks for the advice and to Keys Hardware for amazing advice and great product inventory.

Heading to Tampa on Monday.

Bruce

Freestyle
1986 62 CPMY (54MY with ext)
Tampa
 
Good field work.......
 
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If you limp it on one make sure to lock the inop prop shaft. Use a solid 1 1/18 or 1 1/4 wrench on the shaft nuts against the stringer. A crescent wrench will brake. Also everytime you stop forward motion and for sure everytime you reverse check that the wrench is still secure. No need to alternate. Did this with the Bird for 8 days with no issues.
Even talked a lock into staying open late for our emergency.
 
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