Sam's is your source for Hatteras and Cabo Yacht parts.

Enter a part description OR part number to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog:

Email Sam's or call 1-800-678-9230 to order parts.

Flybridge Steering not working

  • Thread starter Thread starter captscottc
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 29
  • Views Views 15,708
found that our boat had ATF in the steering so I flushed it/replaced it with 5606. As BoatsB noted, one clue was the fact that there was ATF on board and no machinery that actually used it. Now there is the rather common, partially used gallon can of 5606!
Trim Tabs??
 
Hmm...I have to admit with some embarrassment that I have never paid the slightest attention to the trim tabs, other than using them when planing. I couldn't even tell you if they are hydraulic and, if so, whether or not there is a reservoir or a fill point or the correct fluid. :(
 
The underwear is for cleaning up the leaking ATF....

Nice looking Hatteras btw....
 
mike, you should be ashamed of yourself. LOL
 
Boatsb,
8/53 Detroits

Td transmissions take engine oil. Unless yiu have trim tabs or other hydraulic pistons that take atf I think they used it in the steering. I use r&o hydraulic fluid without a problem. Being in Florida cold does not effect it.
 
Okay Boys!!!! First I'd like to thank you all for the time and knowledge. Secondly, It was nothing but lack of pressure. The gauge was reading ZERO, and after 2.5 pumps of air (from that pump that was/is in the ER) a few turns port and a few turns to the other port, all is now working. Pressure held all day, and will keep a good eye on that gauge for any drop in pressure.

Hoping to take her out tomorrow after the Saints whip up on the Cowboys. :rolleyes: Want to enjoy some of this S.E. Louisiana weather we are having.

Again, THANKS GUYS!!! What an awesome site this is.

Peace-:D
 
Hmm...I have to admit with some embarrassment that I have never paid the slightest attention to the trim tabs, other than using them when planing. I couldn't even tell you if they are hydraulic and, if so, whether or not there is a reservoir or a fill point or the correct fluid. :(

It's located under the master bed, all the way aft, center line, on the rudder shelf. Once you see the setup, you'll understand why the tabs are undersized and why it takes a while to push the tabs all the way down (waiting for wave action to release from them as you push them down). I've seen beefier set ups on center consoles... But, it is what it is.
 
Just to be double sure you may want to purge your system a little more. The way the Hynautic steering works is through its three hoses. #3 is the common return to the reservoir. The pressure to move the rudder comes from hoses #1 or #2, each of which push the fluid in only one direction. So if you had a bubble at the flybridge, the highest part of the system, it is PROBABLY gone. But those little hydraulic pumps, attached to our steering wheels, only move a few cubic inches of fluid per turn. They are made to transmit fluid, not air, at which they are inefficient. So when I have a steering problem I am fanatical about purging the whole system. About three years ago I had just exited a winding channel in the Bahamas when my bridge steering totally ceased. When this happens your rudders will remain locked in whatever position they were. If they were hard over it is impossible to steer using differential engine power alone. I did not like this at all!

So go to the Hynautic manual and your Hatteras Owner's Manual to see how to completely bleed the system. On my boat I have three steering pumps, at the fly bridge and salon wheels, and the autopilot, mounted in my engine room. I have a little green box at the stern near my steering ram. It has a bypass valve that needs to be loosened, letting hydraulic fluid go straight from hoses 1 and 2 into 3, washing all the bubbles back into the reservoir. When open it bypasses the steering ram and expedites the purging of bubbles. I bleed from top to bottom, 100 full turns to the right, same to the left. Probably overkill, but better than underkill. Don't forget the autopilot, if you have one. Just put it into manual steering and let it run from one side then to the other for a minute or two each. Don't forget to gently close the bypass valve when finished purging or the steering ram won't work.

Despite all the talk of the air pressure pushing the fluid up to the bridge, it does not.* Read the manual. It is a closed system and there is pressure on all sides. The main reason for the pressure is to keep dirt or water out of the system. A second benefit is to be an indicator of any system leak by registering the lower air pressure and thereby tipping us off. But if you open the reservoir and release all the pressure and then leave the top open a topped-off system will still work. Pressure doesn't matter.

* Well, perhaps on the initial filling a dose of air might help to push the first drops of oil to the top, but air is not what keeps it up there. Eventually all the air ends up back at the top of the reservoir where it belongs and the system is completely pressurized. Just as milk will remain in a straw when you put your finger over the tip and lift, the hydraulic fluid will remain in hose #3 UNLESS there is some vacuum break (air) in the hose or pump. Even then, the steering will operate unless the leak is in intake hoses 1 or 2 and the pump becomes air bound.

Hope this helps you have a great trip.
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
38,156
Messages
448,741
Members
12,482
Latest member
UnaVida

Latest Posts

Trending content

Back
Top Bottom