Fire

[Pascal]

i tried the $10 POCS (PO china S) watertimer from home depot... last 2 days and burst at 2am...

in theory your bilge pumps will keep up. i takes me 20 minutes to fill my tanks so i doubt the flow rate is much over 1000gh. problem is that you'd still be relying on a couple of bilge pumps to run for what maybe days...

 

[Jaxfishgyd]

Ed,

"After further review", (can you tell it's finally football season!), Seems the boat that sunk at the slip did not have the power cords plugged in or the power turned on. That would explain on why it sunk from the burst water hose.

It was behind the owners house and they had left for a vacation..... Not sure how deep the water was, but the boat has been at Huckins (on the hard)since about May.

 

[Capt K]

Wow Barry, sorry to hear about this. Here's another story, though. The day before we were to leave on our vaction, August 9, we were onboard with some people and the AC went off. While they were socializing, I looked at the panel (1965 50' motoryacht) and saw that I had lost one leg of the 50a/250v incoming power. I double checked all the breakers on the panel and on the dock. At that point, I realized what it probably was, shut down the breaker on the dock and pulled the cord from the boat. Sure enough, it was fried.

As it turned out, one of the wires behind the inlet had melted, arched and fried. Luckely, like was already stated here, it fried far enough back to stop a real fire. I had to have the yard step in as I was leaving the next day. They not only fixed the problem and installed a new inlet, they also insisted on installing a junction box just inside the std engine room complete with breaker meant to pop first in the event of a problem or overload.

I obiviously agreed without even asking about boat bucks!!

By the way, the new breakers actually popped once on vacation due to a surge from a problem on the dock. I still haven't received the bill, but I'm ok with it, so far.

Good luct with the repairs!

K

 

[jim rosenthal]

Barry, most of us who have been boating for more than a few years have had a close call on this, or worse. If you haven't, you either don't ever plug your boat in, or it hasn't happened to you yet. Kind of like running aground up here, no pun intended.

The shore current connection is probably the weakest link on any big powerboat, because it is inherently fragile and a lot of juice comes through it. At the dock, I use one 15 amp connection, through a very heavy 10-3 cord that looks like a shore power cord but is essentially a regular extension cord. This isn't out of choice- the dock is only wired for 15 amps. If I want AC at the dock, I run the genset. Period. I have had close calls with hot shore connects, and they scared the daylights out of me.

I don't think Hatteras is any worse on this than any other make. They are probably better. Even boats that were built with the best hardware and fixtures available will age, and their equipment ages with them. All of this stuff is expensive, but not as much as a boat. My shore connects are new, the cables are new, and the adapters are new. The whole rig still makes me nervous. Electricity and water can only ever coexist uneasily at best.

I note that you have had your boat a long time; no doubt she is a member of the family like mine is. I hope she gets well soon, and that you don't miss a lot of boating. Everyone here feels for you, and for her as well.

 

[solanderi]

My heart sank when I read the story about the fire. Thank God noone was injured and your rig is repairable. In your honor and because I am smarter for you having shared your experience with the forum, I just replaced the black plastic retaining ring on my shore power cord. It had cracked a month ago and then fell apart about ten days ago. I knew that it was important, but not how important. Thank you for this valuable lesson,

Greg

 

[Pascal]

one thing that may help but which only works when the inlets are in the right spot is to leave the boat side plugs in and only connect/disconnect the shore side. on the 53, it's easy... i have my cord strapped to the stanchions inside the weather board all the way to the stern. i disconnect dockside and roll the last 15' on on the aft deck.

i believe that reduces wear on the shore side plug and inlet. i hope...

 

[neosin]

one thing that may help but which only works when the inlets are in the right spot is to leave the boat side plugs in and only connect/disconnect the shore side. on the 53, it's easy... i have my cord strapped to the stanchions inside the weather board all the way to the stern. i disconnect dockside and roll the last 15' on on the aft deck.

i believe that reduces wear on the shore side plug and inlet. i hope...

I was thinking about that, but a friend of mine who is an electrician made the comment that i should keep my cables in good shape, a size or two larger than I need and that unplugging them and plugging back in helps in keeping the contacts clean and use a little grease on the contacts. So far this has worked well as my contacts look brand new on a year old cable. Temp gun shows no heat change even at full load on the inside and outside cables.

Just food for thought...


###

 

[Genesis]

Hatteras does a better job than most in this regard from the factory as they use a metal box for the inlets AND fuses - which open from temperature, not just overcurrent.

This doesn't solve it entirely, but it sure beats an inlet screwed into a fiberglass panel! Get fiberglass lit and its damn near impossible to put out, especially if the fire is on the rear (hidden) side.

 

[Trojan]

I always was under the assumption that grease burns. I would not put any grease on the twist-lock connection. My twist lock did not start the fire nor was it hot. The fire started behind the bulkhead where the wires were attached with nuts to the studs on the backside of male twist-lock. The nuts were loose at one time and had ark ed, welding the nuts to the studs. In checking the tightness of the connection. They felt tight. In essence they were loose causing them to ark starting the fire at a later date. You must also look at the connection. Not just check it for tightness. I learned the hard way, but was lucky.

BILL

 

[DCMY #92]

The primary purpose of conductive grease is to prevent the corrosion that can make even a tight connection develop a high resistance. Only a film of grease is required, so there is no increase fuel supply should an arc or fire start. In my opinion, conductive grease is a benefit on any electrical connection exposed to a corrosive environment. That's pretty much any connection on a boat.

 

[Trojan]

neosin did not state that it was a conductive grease. That would make a difference. I don't believe there is a conductive grease. I only know of a grease for the anti corrosion and oxidation of dissimilar metals. But then I have been wrong before. There is something new every day. Maybe someone has the name of this product?

BILL

 

[rsadelman]

I'll buy a jar if you have any left and its not too much trouble. We have a 74 Hatteras and I worry about fires all the time. Had a terrible barn fire a number of years ago so I'm always nervous about my boat and all that could go wrong....
Thanks,
Just send it COD if that is the easiest for you.

Ron Adelman
423 Jackson Street
St Charles, MO 63301
314 422 8793

 

[DCMY #92]

Grease update:
I will wait another few days to see if anyone else wants a jar and then send the grease to those who have indicated interest.

So far it is Jay N., neosin, Boatsb (no address for shipping), Dave D., and Ron A. Let me know if I have missed anyone.

Just in case there is any misunderstanding. I am not in the grease business. I had to buy 25 jars to get the one I wanted for my own use. My 25 years of experience with it on my Hatteras has convinced me it is that important for relialbe low voltage connections and safe higher voltage connections. I am not suggesting that others with different experiences or opinions should change their practices. I have seen conductivity tests that indicate that this and other greases are not conductive, however I have not seen tests comparing the conductivity of clean and new connections, greased connections and corroded connections. My experience in the marine environment says go with the greased connection.

 

[e17406]

i would also like a jar. Thank you Ed

 

[Capt K]

Count me in. You can fire me off a PM or give me your e-mail and I'll give you my particulars.

Thanks!

CaptK

 

[34Hatt]

Barry I am sorry to hear this I feel for you Big Time.
With that said It could have been worst and like said before no on was hurt.
Good luck with the clean up and fix. I always check mine and spray them but will be doing it even more.

Dan

 

[DCMY #92]

For some reason my browser does not want to open member's profiles lately.

If e17406 and Capt K will send me a PM with an address I will send you the grease when I sent it to the others.

boatsb - I got your PM.

 

[DCMY #92]

To those who are waiting for their grease - I am very sorry for the delay in sending the grease, but I have been swamped with work. I will get it in the mail Monday. Hopefully no one has had an electrical problem while waiting.

 

[MikeP]

di-electric grease is commonly used for electrical connections. It's at any hardware or auto parts store.

 

[DCMY #92]

This isn't di-electric grease. Di-electric is non conductive for use on high voltage connections such applications as sparkplug terminals to prevent tracking. This grease is a corrosion preventive conductive grease. Having said that there are many anti-corrosion greases available for use on electrical connections. This is just one I have had good result with.