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Fire Supression

  • Thread starter Thread starter Capt.Erich
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Capt.Erich

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Joined
Mar 22, 2006
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338
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
34' SPORT CRUISER (1961 - 1965)
After watching the video links from the Sandbar about a boat fire it got me thinking about fire safety. As I am in a major refit and starting with the ER and electrical, I am now thinking about what type of fire extinguishing system I should put in the ER. The larger boats I have run all have the large CO2 tanks with the self actuating trigger. Would this system on a smaller scale be effective on a 34C? What's the best option for gas engines? :confused:
 
Check out the Fireboy systems.

This is what we are installing on Boss lady. The system will not shut down a Diesel, but we also bought that asccessory as part of the 3 circuit shut down.

Not being an engine person per say, i understand that diesels will suck the air/chemical and keep running. Considering this, and the notes in the book, I expect if the alarm activated, the gas engines would shut down on their own.

However, I am one of those who want the option " just in case" to manually activate the system and shut down the engines at the same time.

Measure the ER cubic feet, and by according to that.
 
Enough CO2 will shut down a diesel it's the other stuff (the modern replacement) I just can't think of the name. That's the one that a diesel will eat up and spit out without even belching.

Brian
 
CO2 is VASTLY superior in terms of extinguishing power to the new "clean agents". With that said, its also a bigger pain in the butt as the tank is bigger and the equipment more complicated.

BUT - if you want the best-of-breed "put out the damn fire NOW!" system, CO2 is it. It requires no additional shutdown relay system for diesels. In addition IF you accidentally trip it getting it reloaded is cheap - CO2 is not expensive stuff at all, while the other "clean agents" are VERY expensive to recharge (by comparison.)

One warning - it will shut YOU down if it goes off with you in the engine room. The newer "clean agents" are far less likely to "lights out" you.

Were I doing this, I'd put in CO2. I used to see this the other way around but I've read about and seen several boats that have burned to the waterline and sunk DESPITE having the newer systems on board - if the engines don't shut down for some reason (e.g. fire is electrical and shutdown system gets impaired, or the engine is running on lube oil and doesn't CARE if its commanded to shut down) with the new agents you're screwed.

With gas engines its a SLIGHTLY more complicated decision as gas engines WILL be shut down by the "clean agent" systems. However, I still say that if you have the room and weight allowance for CO2 its hard to beat.
 
I wanted a CO2 system but could not find a decent price to get one installed, compared to the price of the new systems. I will have several large handheld CO2 extinquishers throughout the boat to augment the main system, and to stop a runaway engine.
 
Yeah, that's the other advantage.

If you get a runaway, you can yank the manual pull. It WILL stop the engine, and the pull is typically not sitting 6" FROM the engine either (where the pieces GET YOU if it comes apart)
 
I always am concerned about my CO2 system tripping accidently/prematurely while I am in the ERs, especially the genny room where I cannot exit very quickly. Is this a false worry and what can I do to minimize the chances for such an accident?

Do I understand the previous comments correctly - IF I experienced a runaway engine, could I manually trip my ER CO2 system to stop it?

I want to make sure I understand this right.

Bear'
1984 61' MY Strategic Plan
 
Yes, you could trip the system to release the CO2 which should shut down the engines. Obviously this may not be the best way to do so - if your engines have air doors (not all do), that's the best way to shut them down if the normal shut down doesn't work.

If you have an oem Hatt CO2 system and IF it's set up the same way as it is on our 53MY, when the system is activated CO2 is discharged into both eng rooms and the genny room. At the same time, the engines are shut down by the normal shut-down solenoid through a separate elec switch attached to the CO2 lines and activated by the CO2 pressure. So the engine shut down solenoid is activated an instant before the CO2 actually starts spewing from the nozzles. Obviously, one of two things will actually stop the engines - the solenoid or, if it didn't work, the CO2.

The CO2 system is activated (either by the sensors or manually) by a spring-loaded firing pin that, when tripped, releases the CO2. Although I haven't seen it happen, the PO of our 53MY had the system activated by an errant grand-kid who pulled the manual release. He ( the PO) assured me that if the system is fired, the noise will NOT go unnoticed by you or anyone within several hundred yards of the boat!

I have taken the control head, which contains the firing mechanism off the system and tested it to be sure it works properly. I don't think an "accidental" release is anything to be at all concerned about. By "Accidental," in this case, I mean where the system itself malfunctioned and tripped with no outside aid. Obviously, you always have the possibility that someone could pull the manual release. Essentially, it is exactly the same as the firing mechanism on a bolt-action rifle. It is quite safe until somebody pulls the trigger - no, it doesn't have a hair trigger!!

After recharging the system and to avoid a repeat of the "accidental" discharge (actually, it wasn't an "accident" at all, the kid PULLED the release which then performed exactly as it should have), the PO disabled the system by unscrewing the control head from the bottle sufficiently so that the firing pin couldn't hit the release plug. He would do this when the kids were aboard and retighten it when they weren't. As you can imagine and since his memory was no better than mine, he had forgotton he had done this and the system, though fully charged/weighed/certified, didn't work when I bought the boat. I didn't discover this for several months after buying it and only then because someone on this site happened to post about the system and how to check it. So I thought "Hey, I should take a look at that!" Good thing I did.

So it's a good idea to thoroughly check the system to be sure it really does work. A full CO2 bottle means nothing if the sensors, sensor lines, or firing mechanism aren't functioning properly. You can do this by removing the control head from the bottle and pulling the manual release. You will hear the firing pin release with a loud snap. After resetting it, you can do the same with each sensor using a hair dryer to heat it - in 15 sec or so, the firing pin should be released. Repeat with every sensor.

Note that a surveyor, or whoever will NOT check to see if the system works. They will only look at the tag on the bottle to see when it was last weighed.

Again, I think an accidental firing is extremely unlikely and I would never worry about it at all. Heck, if I was in the engine room when it was activated, I'd probably die of heart failure from the noise long before the CO2 would have a chance to do anything! :)

One other note - re air doors. Don't assume they will work unless you have checked them AT IDLE - NEVER CHECK THEM AT ANY SPEED ABOVE IDLE. DD says they should be checked annually. One of mine would release properly but would not shut down the engine. I had to remove the air horn and "adjust" (bend!) the door.

Basically - don't assume ANYTHING on the boat works properly until YOU have seen it work. DON't rely on a surveyor to tell you it works. I could make a fair-sized list of IMPORTANT items that were "OK" on surveys but didn't actually work when they needed to. Bill said, "Trust, but verify!" To me that's gov speak for "don't trust anybody," which is sound advice! ;)
 
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