Engine hatches

[Capt Ratty]

Has anyone considered putting piano hinges on the multiple hatches found on a 41' tc or simular layout? I'am thinking of using cork on the salon floor, and an area rug over the hatches. Has it been done? How did it work out? Any better ideas?

 

[jim rosenthal]

I had a Matthews MY years back on which this had been done...it worked fine. SS piano hinge, or chromed brass, is easy to find. Sometimes you have to relieve the hatch edge to make everything fit neatly- that's probably the hardest part of it, since you need some kind of routing jig or large table saw to do it.

FWIW, carpeting the hatches also works a lot better if you relieve the edges-the hatches fit together and seal better, and the carpeting doesn't fray at the edges, and it's a lot easier to tack down.

 

[Trojan]

Jim, how much do you need to relieve between the hatches to clear the carpet? I have 6 hatches and I to have the same dilemma as Capt Ratty.



BILL

 

[SeaEric]

The carpet is best wrapped into a rabbet cut into the top edge of the hatch. If you cut the entire thickness of the hatch down, it may effectively screw them up for someone else's plan later on. You can certainly get enough of a wrap on the carpet in 1/2 the thickness of the hatch. If they need to fit tight to the top edge again some day, it can be done with some strips of wood glued back in the rabbet.

I am hinging my large engine hatches at the outboard edges after having installed the teak/holly plywood decking. I am using heavy brass decorative hinges set flush into the flooring surface. I plan to add the gas lift assist arms to make opening these heavy monsters a bit easier. My center hatch has been cut and modified to split 1/3 - 2/3 The 2/3 piece will hinge up on end forward and the aft 1/3 piece will still be a lift out. That one open by itself is enough to slide in between the 3208's and check fluids etc.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I installed that type of hinge on my gen room hatch. To make it work, I had to cut off the bottom edge of the hatch opposite the hinge. This was easy to do with a battery operated skill saw set on a 45. I didn't need to take much off to make it clear, maybe 1/2" by 1/2". Once cut, sand the cut edge smooth and round the corners to make it look nice. Then varnish or paint to match.

 

[Capt Ratty]

Sounds like the hinges should be below floor level, like a 1/16 of an inch, so it remains flush with the floor. That could be tough to do. Well thanks for your ideas. We do want cork on the floor though. Had it with carpet.

 

[Trojan]

I installed piano hinges on my 32 Trojan. They worked quite well. The hatch covers were about 4ft. X 5ft. a PITA to pickup and find a place to put. What type of cork are you planning to install and how does it come?


BILL

 

[Starman]

The depth of the relief cut for the hinge should be just a hair smaller than the thickness of the barrel end of the hinge. in most cases about an 1/8 of an inch.

To make it right,if the piano hinge is shorter than the hatch, rabit out only the length of the hinge. ( just like the hinge on a door in your house.

If the hinge is the same width as the hatch, use a saw and slice off that 1/8 inch full length

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Paul is correct. It is not a difficult job and it makes access much easier than lifting those heavy hatches out.

 

[Capt Ratty]

I'am getting the cork at a local carpet and flooring store. It comes in 12 inch squares or a plank version about 36 in X 12 in. The planks are inter locking much like the wood flooring you can buy at HD. The 12 in squares glue down to a clean floor and are about 3/16 in thick. Cork is sound proof, soft under foot, actually fire proof, insulating, comes in many colors, wears far longer than the best carpet, easy to clean, water resistent, is a renewable product, and is very attractive. I will use the 12 in squares for ease of working around odd shapes and corners. Cost is about $4.00 per square foot plus glue.

 

[Capt Ratty]

Starman
What method or tool do you suggest to rabbit out the hatch edges? There may be remnants of staples and or tacks, unseen in the hatch covers. Not good for wood working tools.

 

[Starman]

Majority of the time I just use a saw ( carbide tipped ) and a guide. Usually if there are staples,or tiny brad nails, they are small and do not really hurt the blade that much.

99 plus % of the time I use Dewalt cordless tools.

If the Hatch is boardered with a solid pice of teak ( which is what I do ) there may be plugs ( bungs ) covering screws.

To remove a plug or bung, take a small staight screwdriver, line it up with the grain and tap into the center of the plug. Gently pry and the plug will come apart. Dig out the remaining pices and remove the screw.

This solid teak surround should be glued in place, and should not come off. trim , use a counter sink bit to make the hole clean again, reinstall screw and plug.

I prefer Tightbond II glue.

If the strip comes off, then I would run it through a table saw then reinstall it.

Hope this helps.

 

[Capt Ratty]

Sounds like a plan. I'll probably take the hatches home and cut then on the table saw.
Thanks