We are just back from two months in the Bahamas, split between the Abacos and then about two weeks at Harbour Island, followed by a week at Spanish Wells. We had a great time everywhere. I have been going to Harbour I. since I was eight years old. It is a lovely spot and has several sophisticated restaurants. But it was SUPER EXPENSIVE! Frankly I was shocked. Diner for two, starter and main course, one drink each, no wine, no dessert was $250 before tip. Now I must say dinner was very good. When we requested that the fish not be over cooked the chef personally came out to discuss it, and she cooked it perfectly. So I guess you pays your money and you makes your choice.
Mostly we go out for lunch at Harbour I. I particularly recommend Sip Sip (closed Tuesdays, and lunch only) for innovative and excellent cuisine plus its beautiful beach view. Pink Sands beach bar is also quite good. But each place will set you back over $ 100-150 for two courses and two adult beverages.
Spanish Wells has the new Ship Yard Restaurant which was excellent. I was a guest so did not pay, but it seemed reasonable for good food. Spanish Wells is a primarily residential island, so don't expect the glamor of Harbour I. but it has its own charm and friendly people. Very good co-op supermarket. Kathie's Bakery, across from co-op, has great Bahamian bread which my grandchildren refer to as "cake bread" because of its sweetness. Yum! Buy two loaves as it comes out of the oven around 11 am because one will be gone before you get back to the boat.
The rest of Eleuthera has mostly small villages, not many sheltered harbors. Island mostly open to the west. You can go through Current Cut, at high slack tide, with good light. You can then cut back to the sheer cliffs of Eleuthera at Gregory Town, which is a lovely town in a tiny harbor. Surge in the harbor will discourage anchoring. But you can then cruise close to the cliffs in good water south. Hatchet Bay has poor holding, rent a mooring. Governor's Harbour has the worst holding I have ever seen, 6 inches sand over flat limestone. Can anchor to north under Levi I. but farther from town. Town has some moorings, but dive to verify condition. New marina under way, I hear.
There is shelter at Rock Sound, but I believe there is no longer a fuel dock. I haven't been this way for a couple years. I always liked Cape Eleuthera. Marina has fuel. So does Davis Harbor which was built for the Cotton Bay Club. Everything is far away. Keep going south to Little San Salvador, the Fernandez Bay on Cat I. From here south you are mostly on your own. Get a guidebook or two and enjoy the exploring!
