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Does anyone know this 1985 Hatteras 43'

  • Thread starter Thread starter Miss Lisa
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Miss Lisa

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Does anyone know this 85 Hatt 43' Sea Star located in League City, TX asking $114,900 If you google it you can see pictures. I don't know how to enter a link, sorry.

This boat has what I like in a boat: CAT engines, large holding tank (90 gals), PO has had the boat for 10 years (under cover), etc.

I wish it had a lower station. Did many of the 43' DCMY have a lower station?
 
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1985/Hatteras-43-Motor-Yacht-2918404/League-City-/TX/United-States#.V-kMhZMrJE4

I
do not know this boat. Looking at the pictures it looks like it has not been abused, but no updating has been done in the last decade plus. If it has immaculate maintenance records for the motors and the hours are reasonable (not listed = FLAG) and no serious structural issues (like water intrusion into the laminate of deck/superstructure) and they accept an offer at 80% or so it MIGHT be worth putting the elbow grease and money into to bring it into the 21st century after which you would have a boat you could enjoy for quite some time. (Yes, lots of "if" "could" and "maybe")

My opinion is worth what you pay for it..... ;-)
 
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Thanks for the response; I feel the same about the number of hours on the engines and the soft goods update. The electronics on board are dated and need to be replaced also. The dinghy looks like it is loosing air!

It appears that these style boats would be difficult to tie up @ the dock with 2 people on board especially the stern and the spring line. I think I would prefer a boat with a cockpit. Did Hatteras make any models of this vintage & size with a cockpit?
 
Also, do marine surveyors usually check for moisture/rot with a moisture meter or can it be felt by walking on the deck barefoot? From what I have read on this form about deck rot it usually is found around the bow pulpit.

Tuga
 
Did many of the 43' DCMY have a lower station?

I used to own an 86 just like this, it is a Motor Yacht (MY), not a Double Cabin (DC) in Hatteras terminology. I don't think there are any unusual issues with this boat, just the same things all older boats have issues with.

I had Caterpillars and they will run forever if taken care of. Mine had 2400 hrs on them and ran flawlessly.

The FB on this boat is one of the great features. It is large and is reached by just going up a few stairs as opposed to a ladder.

If you want a helm station on the back deck, you need to look at 43's prior to 1985 (Double Cabin - DC). There are lots of those around.
 
It looks good in the pictures. Most boats look better in the pictures than in real life so it is important to look it over up close and personal. Regarding your concerns about handling with 2 people..don't fret. For over 30 years we had 2 43 DC's with the same line handling concerns. After a short time you will develop a system of line handling and preparedness that will become routine. The DC's with the helm and controls on the flush deck had an advantage in that the helmsman was only a couple of steps away from the spring lines and stern lines (which should be readied ahead of time for easy deployment). The second person should be up forward to take care of the bow lines. On the newer MY's the helmsman needs to come down from the bridge deck to assist in docking etc. My present 1982 Series 1, 48 MY is laid out pretty much the same as the 43 MY with the bridge somewhat removed from the line handling. As with everything relating to boating, everything is a compromise.

As far as the engines are concerned, the 3208's were/are great engines but the 43 MY with the 6-71 TI's is a little faster which is really a matter of personal preference and/or need.

Finally, I do love the larger living area of the enclosed aft deck on the MY over the DC as well as a "real bridge".

In any event, I am certain you will enjoy the Hatteras experience and the warm and fuzzy feeling that comes with ownership of one of these fine boats.

Walt
 
Also, do marine surveyors usually check for moisture/rot with a moisture meter or can it be felt by walking on the deck barefoot? From what I have read on this form about deck rot it usually is found around the bow pulpit.

Tuga

They do, but it is part science, part art. Some are better than others, and evaluations are often inaccurate. That said, if it's really bad, indeed around pulpits or helm chairs or other after market accessories on FB, and the readings are confirmed by movement it's usually correct and ALWAYS worse than you thought.
 
Also, do marine surveyors usually check for moisture/rot with a moisture meter or can it be felt by walking on the deck barefoot? From what I have read on this form about deck rot it usually is found around the bow pulpit.

Tuga

I've seen a lot of them who just use a tapping hammer. Remember, the hammer will indicate major moisture damage but will not show the potential wet area. A good moisture meter is much better for this. My standard recommendation is to buy or borrow one before you get into a survey and go over any candidates yourself (after you learn how to use it and understand what it is capable of). This can save a lot of grief later.

Deck rot can extend well beyond the pulpit and frequently occurs below the windshields and side windows. One of our members posted a lot of detail on his repair of the windshield area.

Good luck,

Bobk
 
It looks okay on the outside, okay on the inside. Has a queen main berth, which is nice. All the radios and nav gear are obsolete as far as I can tell. The engine room looks rusty and somewhat neglected to me. There are a number of labels on the electrical panels- not sure what that's all about.

I think this is a desirable model which has been somewhat indifferently maintained from the look of the photos. I suspect it is overpriced. The new owner would need a complete set of radios etc and probably some catch-up maintenance on the mechanicals. If you like the boat a lot, a realistic low offer and a thorough hull and engine survey might be worth attempting. The listing says they want it sold. The question is how much do they want it sold.

3208s are excellent engines and these are probably the low hp version, like 355 or 375. Reliable and economical. Easy to work on, parts easily available.
 
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Thanks everyone for your responses. I did not know the difference between a MY and a DC. I think that I will learn a lot more once I see one of each up close.

This pulpit/deck/windshield/window rot has me rather uncomfortable. I will not buy a "pig in a poke". My first question to the broker will be show me maintenance records from any repairs. If the boat is 30 years old and it has not had any deck rot repairs - I will just walk away.

What percentage of these boats experience rot? Is it a large majority or am I worrying too much!

I would rather pay more and have a well maintained boat than to take a chance on something that can not be measured or defined.

I appreciate the comment about the electronics (I know very little about GPS). What age is considered acceptable for radar, GPS/plotter? From the little that I have read one unit can contain all three! What happens when the screen goes blank? I am going to buy nautical charts to back up the GPS and will only travel during daylight hours.
 
All boats can get rot if not kept sealed. Even the best kept ones may get a deck or cleat area that's soft.

There is no black and white here. You need to know about the models your looking at and to have good surveyors go through them thoroughly.

Almost every boat that is surveyed will need something. Some more than others.
 
Thanks everyone for your responses. I did not know the difference between a MY and a DC. I think that I will learn a lot more once I see one of each up close.

This pulpit/deck/windshield/window rot has me rather uncomfortable. I will not buy a "pig in a poke". My first question to the broker will be show me maintenance records from any repairs. If the boat is 30 years old and it has not had any deck rot repairs - I will just walk away.

What percentage of these boats experience rot? Is it a large majority or am I worrying too much!

I would rather pay more and have a well maintained boat than to take a chance on something that can not be measured or defined.

I appreciate the comment about the electronics (I know very little about GPS). What age is considered acceptable for radar, GPS/plotter? From the little that I have read one unit can contain all three! What happens when the screen goes blank? I am going to buy nautical charts to back up the GPS and will only travel during daylight hours.

Remember, if there are no deck repairs, there may not have been any rot. Don't walk from what may be a good boat for lack of a repair record. The fact that this one has been under cover for a long time is in your favor. Look at the windlass motor in the chain locker. If it is rusty, there has been a leak. If not, there may be no issue.

Paying more for a well maintained boat is always better than buying one that needs a lot of work. If you do look at it and like it, have a surveyor give it a quick look (make or break survey) before getting into a full blown and more expensive survey.

Jim mentioned the ER rust. It seems to be in areas that have water passages on the engines. These might be simply from not correcting a raw water leak. They should not be overlooked, but may not (yet) be serious.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Bobk
 
What happens when the screen goes blank?

You revert to DR. That's dead reckoning. It involves a paper chart, a compass, a watch and a keen eye and years of experience if not that at least some training......

Sorry. Couldn't resist.

I know, in this "quick start guide" era people want to jump in and "do it". I'm all for that... when it concerns setting up a DVR.....(are those still around?????)

Open bodies of water, wind, tides, currents, thunderstorms and everything else Mother Nature dishes out are NOT graphics. They can hurt, it can be cold, you could drown, as in die. No shit.

Sorry, but this could be your reality check. I hope I made a difference.

On edit: Not trying to discourage, but you have to learn to walk before you run. Plenty of avenues to do so.... just be cognizant of the fact that this is not a game.... out there it's real. Do your homework.... all of it.
 
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Tuga,

I hope you understand that all the comments and opinions you are reading are all meant to be helpful and not to discourage you from considering an older Hatteras. While it's not pleasant to have to perform (or have it done professionally), it should be expected that a 30 year old boat will need some work to make it like new. The thing to remember is that if Hatteras still made the 43 DC or MY, the cost would be at least ten times what you are looking at, and probably more than ten times. By comparison, almost all other boats of the same age are probably in a land fill by now. There are exceptions of course, but a Hatteras is still a great base to start with.

My approach ( which is almost certainly flawed ) would be to check out as many of the model(s) you're interested in and do some homework including some rough estimates on what the cost of any required repairs would be. This should be an absolute and in most cases the pristine boat, while costing more will come out less money in the long run. Depending on your knowledge and skill and willingness to perform some work yourself, you can save a good bit of money. This does not mean you have to be a Yachtsman Willy or Quinton and pretty much rebuild the entire boat..That has to be a labor of love as well as a commitment to use the boat a long time to enjoy your effort.
As far as the differences between the DC and the MY, you need to check out the brochures section of this forum and then actually visit some examples. BTW, I don't know where you will home port your boat but if you plan on having it in the northeast US or the west coast, you will need to factor in the additional cost of bringing it home....it can be substantial. Of course it would be hard to put a price on the experience and (hopefully) pleasant memories such a trip could provide.

Walt
 
There is another thread going on this forum which discusses a grounding off Cape May, I think, in which a fairly new Nordhavn 47 was holed and sank after hitting a jetty. The owner of the boat attributes this to his own negligence in navigating by electronic means only, if I read his posts correctly. I suspect he did not have a paper chart book up on the bridge.

Paper charts are easier to read, the lights on them can't go out, and they have been the standard for centuries. Electronic charts are very useful, but you should always have a compass, binoculars, and paper charts on your bridge with you.

As to core and deck repairs, well, most of these boats were built with balsa cored decks, and when water gets in there, the balsa rots. The reason you read so much about it on this forum is that Hatteras yachts are tough enough that they can survive as functional and useful vessels long enough to develop core decay. I suspect that many boats of competing brands did not remain useful long enough for anyone to bother finding out if they had core rot or not.

It is worth repairing a Hatteras. Probably all of our boats have this to some extent. No boat, Hatteras or otherwise, is likely to sink from deck core decay.

In discussions this summer with one of our newer members, who had bought a 43MY and was going through it system by system with the aim of ending up with a reliable and comfortable cruiser, we agreed that the way to tackle a boat with needs is essentially from the bottom up- first the hull, engines, and running gear, then the fundamental ship's systems such as electrical, plumbing, AC, then making sure everything is watertight and solid (this would include repairs to deck core) then the exterior cosmetics, and finally the navigational gear and interior cosmetics such as soft goods. People who restore Hatteras Yachts professionally pretty much follow that plan, I think.

You asked how long a set of radios (navigational instruments, VHF, depthsounder, etc) are good. That depends on who built them and how well they were installed and maintained. I have gotten years out of VHF radios and sounders, as well as GPS chartplotters. I would say that having multiple units and some redundancy is very prudent. Generally speaking, anything of a quality brand such as Garmin, Furuno, Raytheon, Simrad should be good for several years. The two favorites in radios seem to be Standard Horizon and Icom. Obviously any unit is only as good as the installation, and if you aren't familiar with doing that, it should be done by a professional. Your life may depend on it- in fact, it will. And make sure you have current paper charts AND a very good set of binoculars.I have Fujinon Polaris binoculars and they are over twenty years old, still perfect..
 
Wow thanks for the great advice. I like to be up front and blunt; why dance around an issue!

You guys have been very helpful - thank you again.

I am sure that I will have more questions.
 
Around here, we have two tough items- the boats, and their owners. :) LOL
 
When you own a boat you are attempting to force order onto chaos. Your boat lives in water, the same force that created the Grand Canyon (and that was fresh water--salt is much worse!). Nature is always trying to reduce your purchase into its constituent molecules. All older boats will have something wrong with them, now or in the near future. It's just the cost of doing business. That's mostly why new boats cost so much more, probably at least 15X for my 50 year old boat.

It seems like almost everything on my boat needs replacing or renewing about every 15 years. Everything electronic is either obsolete or broken by then. Stove, air conditioning, generator, etc. But in 1965, when my boat was built, Hatteras spared no expense in her design or construction. The best minds at Owens Corning Fiberglass, the best naval architect in Jack Hargrave, the newest most modern plant in High Point, using experienced woodworkers who were eager to be with Hatteras due to the furniture industry moving from there to overseas. It's like rehabbing a historic building--if the structure is sound everything else can be fixed.

Don't think of it as an investment--the annual costs are just too high. As a hobby I think most on this forum would agree that being out on our boats can be extremely rewarding. My grandchildren are the forth generation to want to be with us on board. And because of the close quarters on board you really get to know them, especially if you go so far away that their iPhones don't work and they actually have to talk to you! Or read books.

Or, as I sometimes remind my wife, my boat is so expensive that I can't possibly afford a mistress.
 
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Or, as I sometimes remind my wife, my boat is so expensive that I can't possibly afford a mistress.

LOL...as I tell my boatless friends, one of the unexpected benefits of owning a boat is now my wife thinks golf is dirt cheap, and encourages me to play more.
 
I saw an ad today for a 43' Hatteras and It was described as a 43' DCMY!

How can that be: I remember on this thread a Hatteras can be either a DC or a MY not both!

Am I correct?
 

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