You want a set of step-feelers for the valves - they make getting it right much easier, and that setting is CRITICAL to proper performance. You MUST do the final valve setting hot - the cold setting will insure safety on startup but if you want the engine to perform right you have to recheck and adjust after its up to operating temperature. Working on a hot engine is a pain in the ass but there's no way around this one.
The pin gauge is fine for injector height, but it takes care to use it and be accurate. Dial gauges are wonderful but damn expensive and easy to damage - one drop and its toast. Pin gauges are cheap. You choose. Oh, if you want that injector height to be right on, it needs to be checked hot/warm too.
As for the wrenches, I personally find the lockdown nut one useful, but use a common open-end for the pushrod adjustment - I find that easier to be precise with. YMMV on that one.
The throttle delay doesn't have to be exact, although closer is better. Most are .454 and there's a special "clip" type gauge for it. I personally marked off .454 on a feeler gauge blade and use that - I may be off a couple of thousandths that way but it works fine.
If you start doing injector replacements and such a pair of good torque wrenches is a MUST. You need an ACCURATE low-range one (0-25ft/lbs) for the injector hold-down nut and the fuel line nuts, and a higher-range 1/2" drive one (100-150ft/lbs) for the bridge bolts. Torque on the injector hold clamp and fuel line nuts is CRITICAL. You also NEED the split socket for the fuel-line nuts. Finally, you SHOULD have an injector tube brush to clean the carbon out of the tube whenever you replace an injector, lest you get a bad seal and compression leak.
