Cutlass Bearings

[MicroKap]

What is the procedure for replacing the cutlass bearings on my 1980 60' Sportfish? Three inch shafts. Any idea what the cost of the parts would be? How many hours of labor? Should cutlass bearing on both shafts be replaced at the same time? Should additional struts be changed as well?

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Usually, just the aft 2 bearings need to be changed. They wear out first. I would only change those that you can hear play in. Lift the shaft with both hands and see if it "clunks". You can feel the play if there is any.

Bearings are not too expensive. I have bought them from Sams and from Deep Blue. For 3", I would think they would be less than $100 each.

To change, pull the props and then push the bearings out with a Strut Pro or similar. I had my shop make a pusher out of a some 1/2" steel plate and a length of pipe. I just replaced all six of my bearings.

 

[luckydave215]

Are you sure they are 3"? Mine are 2-1/2".

 

[Boss Lady]

Shaft size will be dictated by the power installed.

 

[mgernes]

Good timing for this tread.

I noticed some movement in my shaft when I was down at the boat today, and since the props are off bieng balance I thought it may be a good time to replace the cutlass bearings. We have a repair shop in our marina and they said the bearings would run about $280/each and the flat labor rate would be $450 for each bearing that was replaced. That is unless they ran into any problems, then it may get more expensive.

On a 53MY do they need to pull the shaft out to replace the bearing? The price seemed expensive and I would apreciate any feedback from any of you that have had this done by a shop.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

If you have the OEM split shafts, then you will need to pull the stub shaft to get to the fwd bearings, but not the aft one.

Bearings are $80 each from Deep Blue http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id=2

The size is "CALL"

Labor should not be more than 1hr each. I did all 6 in about 5 hours and that included pulling the props, pulling the stub shafts, cleaning the shafts, and reinstalling the stubs and muff couplings. Total price for the 2 aft bearings should not be more than $1000, and that is still too much. You can buy a StrutPro for about $700 and do it yourself.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I see 3" Cutlass bearings bring about $160. Glad I only have 2"

 

[egaito]

<snip> We have a repair shop in our marina and they said the bearings would run about $280/each and the flat labor rate would be $450 for each bearing that was replaced. That is unless they ran into any problems, then it may get more expensive.

I had to read this twice.....am I reading it right?

The "flat" labor rate, meaning if it takes me an hour,I'll charge you $450 each, unless there are problems, in which case, I'll charge you whatever I want?

"Flat" rate, to me, means I've calculated my risk and this is what I'll charge, not matter what.

They can't have it both ways....it's either T&M or Fixed Price. I'd run from this yard.....

 

[mgernes]

The flat rate (plus possibly more) issue has not set well with me either. I am in a tough spot since the shop is located in the Marina where I own the slip for my boat, and since this is on the river in Minnesota there are not too many places that offer the services that I need.

I plan to visit with the Manager at the shop and have him discribe for me what is involved and hopefully while engaging in this conversation he will see that the Flat Rate charge for the project is out of line.

I also have a boater/handyman that helps me with odds and ends on the boat seeing if his Marina would be willing to drive up to work on my boat. He just had his Cutlass Bearing replaced on his 53 Carver at a Marina about 20 miles away for $300 total, not including the bearings.

Why can't these Marina shops just set fair rates.

 

[egaito]

The flat rate (plus possibly more) issue has not set well with me either. I am in a tough spot since the shop is located in the Marina where I own the slip for my boat, and since this is on the river in Minnesota there are not too many places that offer the services that I need.

I plan to visit with the Manager at the shop and have him discribe for me what is involved and hopefully while engaging in this conversation he will see that the Flat Rate charge for the project is out of line.

I also have a boater/handyman that helps me with odds and ends on the boat seeing if his Marina would be willing to drive up to work on my boat. He just had his Cutlass Bearing replaced on his 53 Carver at a Marina about 20 miles away for $300 total, not including the bearings.

Why can't these Marina shops just set fair rates.

Good luck with the shop manager. Sometimes they will budge once they know you are on to their "game". Maybe you can get him to do it for T&M, with a "not to exceed without permission" You can check in a couple of times a day to see how the progress is going, and keep an eye on how fast the clock is running.

Don't be surprised if the yard forbids anyone else to work on your boat. Most claim that their insurance doesn't cover them for subs. While there might be a hint of truth in this, typically, subs generally carry their own insurance and can provide the documentation. It's normally a way to keep the labor charges in house. I was granted an exception to this only once, which is when Misty was delivered. When I described the job of putting her back together, they didn't even want to touch it and let me fly in the crew that dis-assembled her. I let the yard do all of the heavy lifting, and they let the guys from SC do all of the wiring and detailed re-assembly.

 

[MicroKap]

They have been measured as 3" shafts by my surveyor when I bought her as well as the diver putting on new zincs. The zincs are snug on the shafts and don't slide, so I believe it's been confirmed that my boat has 3" shafts. Also, my parents' 55 Ocean SS on on the hard right next to me. They have 2" shafts. The 3" shafts make the others look substantially smaller.

I currently have 32x32 four bladed props with a 3" bore that were reconditioned after I bought her in June 2004. I have two spare wheels in the engine room that are 34x35 three bladed. I don't know where these came from, but they sure don't meet original Hatteras specs. Any ideas on what I can do with them to get a real set of spares onboard?

Back to cutlass bearings...On Deep Blue, they note metallic and non-metallic tubes with the bearing inside. Which one is better for the rear struts? My starboard strut has part of the current cutlass bearing sticking out more than 1". There are two in the strut. With an internal diameter of 3", would you know if the Outside Diameter would be 3 3/4" or 4"?

Thanks for you help.

 

[stewart]

I had 4 2" cutlass bearings replaced in St. Peats Salt Creek Marina. Pulled props and shafts. Bearings and labour $733.
Cheers Stewart

 

[SKYCHENEY]

mgernes,
The reasonable price to replace both aft bearings is $600 total, parts and labor. They will not take more than an hour to it. Think about it. The props are off. All they have to do is set up their hydralic pusher and push out the old ones and slide the new ones back in. This is not a big job. If you don't want to buy a StrutPro, then call your marina friend and borrow his. You might save $500, $1000, or even $1500 at those rates.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

They have been measured as 3" shafts by my surveyor when I bought her as well as the diver putting on new zincs. The zincs are snug on the shafts and don't slide, so I believe it's been confirmed that my boat has 3" shafts. Also, my parents' 55 Ocean SS on on the hard right next to me. They have 2" shafts. The 3" shafts make the others look substantially smaller.

I currently have 32x32 four bladed props with a 3" bore that were reconditioned after I bought her in June 2004. I have two spare wheels in the engine room that are 34x35 three bladed. I don't know where these came from, but they sure don't meet original Hatteras specs. Any ideas on what I can do with them to get a real set of spares onboard?

Back to cutlass bearings...On Deep Blue, they note metallic and non-metallic tubes with the bearing inside. Which one is better for the rear struts? My starboard strut has part of the current cutlass bearing sticking out more than 1". There are two in the strut. With an internal diameter of 3", would you know if the Outside Diameter would be 3 3/4" or 4"?

Thanks for you help.

Larry,

I would stick with the metallic ones unless you have some sort of corrosion problem. Also, are you sure that you have 2 per strut? These are 12" long bearings. If it sticks out too long, you can cut it off, but that would mean you have a 23" long strut tube. I guess that might be right, especially with 3" shafts. As far as OD size, I have no idea. If those are OEM struts, you could call Sams or Hatteras, otherwise you will probably have to measure them.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

You really should go with the phenolic resin bearings to prevent even any future problems. A shaft turning in the water is its own d.c. generator.
If the bearing is an inch out now, measure it with a MIC or a pair of calipers.
I'll bet its close to 4" on the O.D. When I install new ones, I drill and tap UP TO THE SHAFT for a PAIR or FOUR setscrews. Fit the screw to length, and when its tight, STAKE the head so it will not back out until needed. That will prevent you from squeezing the OD and preventing the bearing from spinning. ( one chance in a million of that happening!) Good luck ws