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Cracking glass issues on 65' EB

  • Thread starter Thread starter adendis
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adendis

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Jul 3, 2024
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Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
65' CONV -Series I (1986 - 1998)
I purchased an 89 model 65' C with Factory Enclosed Bridge last July. The center glass on The EB had a crack in lower port corner and made arrangements to replace by a yard on the Gulf Coast experienced with this kind of work. Replacement made and all was well while other work resumed on the boat during the winter. In late Nov it was noticed that the new glass had cracked, so it was replaced again (With a great deal of care and attention). Two weeks ago, that glass cracked in roughly the same area.

All of the glass seemed to be original when we started this. The boat has not moved and is on the hard. No obvious evidence of frame movement or out of alignment. Glass had 1/4" or more spacing around edges and a glass expert looked at the second installation and could find no issues.

Glass No. 3 arrived yesterday (trying tempered glass this time) at the yard and upon visiting the EB, the Starboard forward glass next the the center one had a crack running from top to bottom. This glass did not have a crack previously and had never been replaced.

Any help suggestions appreciated?
 
Is the boat out of water when this happens? Ours had cracks in two salon windows from extended time in drydock.
 
Yes, boat has been out of water for approx 6 mos. Initial crack happened when boat was in water. Took boat out partly to fix window. Replaced it once, twice and now on number three for same window. Boat has not moved while out of water.
 
Plenty more knowledgeable people on this forum than me. That said, I would guess it cracked during a previous haul and is now doing the same. Stress from blocking can do weird things. Boats are much happier in the water.
 
there should be spacers around the glass and behind it. the glass should not touch the aluminum frame. if it touches the frame, any movement or even a small spot of corrosion will break the glass.
 
Had the same issue after rebedding the glass on my 1979 43c. Seemed like the boat was racking, if that's the correct term, as she rocked. I suspect that the original bedded glass had become part of the structure, and disturbing it compromised it. I glassed in the windows eventually.
 
Very interesting material. I'm not sure my windows are built quite the same however. While the window frame looks like the same construction, there is no vinyl spline material, there is a rubber gasket that was purchased from Hatteras.

The approach the yard has been taking is to install them like you would auto glass, not using the butyl tape and foam backing.

I am however curious about shimming against the back of the frame. I'm not sure they have been doing this directly, I think their approach has been to lay a bead and press the window into it.

In any event, I'm switching from safety glass to tempered glass with a ceramic 70% tint. That way I have thicker overall glass (1/4" total) along with the protection of the ceramic sheet which is really tough stuff!
 
Had the same issue after rebedding the glass on my 1979 43c. Seemed like the boat was racking, if that's the correct term, as she rocked. I suspect that the original bedded glass had become part of the structure, and disturbing it compromised it. I glassed in the windows eventually.

Bob, When you finally got it, do you know if they used the same techniques described above? Butyl and foam backing or more like they would installing a car windshield?
 
The edges of the glass need to be polished to relieve the stress from when it was cut. I had all my windows replaced and they all cracked within 6 months. Found out about the polishing and never cracked after. BTW safety glass cracks tempered shatters into a million pieces. I wouldn’t trust film to hold it together in heavy weather offshore
 
A word of caution. If you are planning on running the boat at night, you might want to rethink the tinting. All of my forward looking helm windows are clear for maximum night vision.


Caesars Ghost
1980 58YF #472
 
Bob, When you finally got it, do you know if they used the same techniques described above? Butyl and foam backing or more like they would installing a car windshield?
I had them glassed over without doing anything else. I didn't see any point in having new glass installed just to fiberglass it over.
 
You can add ceramic tint with almost no tint factor while adding the heat reduction benefits. We did the forward three pilot house windows with great success.
 
good point with the polishing! I will make sure the edges are polished.
 
Hello, I was just wondering which 65 you bought.

Walt Hoover
 
A word of caution. If you are planning on running the boat at night, you might want to rethink the tinting. All of my forward looking helm windows are clear for maximum night vision.


Caesars Ghost
1980 58YF #472

The new tints are a huge difference in not impacting your night vision, the ceramic and crystalline versions don't impact vision that much while still eliminating most UV and glare. It's like a whole new world from even 10 years ago. I put 3M crystalline on my lower helm windshield and the results have been great, it cut the heat in the salon down substantially in summer, and only impacted my night vision slightly. Not enough to make it a pain and well worth the tradeoff. Tint today isn't like it was in the 1990's where you can't see squat from inside.
 
Had the same issue after rebedding the glass on my 1979 43c. Seemed like the boat was racking, if that's the correct term, as she rocked. I suspect that the original bedded glass had become part of the structure, and disturbing it compromised it. I glassed in the windows eventually.

Bob, When you got yours finally glassed correctly, do you know if you used the Hatteras procedure? Aka: Glass on strips of neoprene, 1/4" butyl, vinyl shims? Or did they use the current glassing technique with polyurethane backing and fill? That is how the glass company is wanting to do it. Their claim is that the current polyurethane compounds used today didn't exist in the 80's.
 
Iirc, I couldn't get the glass out so I cleaned up the dried old stuff and recaulked it.
 
The new tints are a huge difference in not impacting your night vision, the ceramic and crystalline versions don't impact vision that much while still eliminating most UV and glare. It's like a whole new world from even 10 years ago. I put 3M crystalline on my lower helm windshield and the results have been great, it cut the heat in the salon down substantially in summer, and only impacted my night vision slightly. Not enough to make it a pain and well worth the tradeoff. Tint today isn't like it was in the 1990's where you can't see squat from inside.

That's what I am shooting for. The tint I got on the forward and one rear facing windows is 70% while the rest of the boat is 30%. The 70% looks about the same as untinted factory window w/o tint. But man does it cut down the heat!
 
Hello, I was just wondering which 65 you bought.

Walt Hoover

She's currently in he Northern Gulf. Previous owner had her as Boogalou, and owner prior to that was "Flat Dangerous". I believe her original name was "Victory".
 

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