Cost of Painting Hull

[Liquid Asset]

I have a guy who has sprayed imron quite a bit, and he has given me an estimate to paint our hull with imron while we are in the yard. I was woundering if any of you know what you paid per foot to have the hull of your boat painted. I think it's a good price, but I am not sure, so I would like to compare.

He quoted me $100 a foot plus materials. This seems ok to me, since materials is a fixed cost no matter who paints the boat. But just curious to see if it is worth it or if we will decide to move forward wtih ti. Thanks.

 

[hatterass]

I just got a quote to do my hull. that seams to be the going rate. it was 450 for materials and around 3500 for one side of the boat.
Dave

 

[garyd]

I have heard of prices up to and over $1,000.00 per foot so $100.00 per foot sounds too good to be true.

I guess it depends on exactly what he is going to do. etc etc..

garyd

 

[MikeP]

Garyd - I've heard the same - up to 1000/ft but it was the entire boat, not just the hull.

I'm assuming that the questions re hull painting refer to just the hull of the boat, ie, below the rub rail?, right?

 

[34Hatt]

That is a very good price as long as he does do a nice job have you seen his other work?

I just got a quote to do my hull. that seams to be the going rate. it was 450 for materials and around 3500 for one side of the boat.
Dave

For only one side If so that would be 200 per ft when quoting price per ft is for both side's of the hull. Dave are you really only doing the one side???

 

[ohiohatteras]

PM sent

 

[hatterass]

Dan,
the other side is fine. So they said I could do the one side this year and the other side the next. the paint it self is in good condition and doesn't need to be done. it's just the cracking in the hull making me do this. Do you think I should do the hull all at once? Not to spend money I don't have right know but...?
Dave
PS the cracking problem is only on the side that faces the river and the sun.( we are on the outside dock in the river)

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Obviously just painting the hull requires much less work than painting the topsides too. Most of the items that would need to be removed or taped off would be above the rub rail. Plus, once you get them off, then they would have to be rebed and put back on. Also, the topsides have more curves and irregular surfaces that could be tricky to paint.

That said, I still can't believe that number to do just the hull. If his work looks good, go for it. I just paid $300 to repaint one pilothouse door.

 

[Brian Degulis]

That's a good price for the hull very good and I like the fact that he is not quoting complete with materials this way there is no incentive to go light and save paint. I would ask him if he intends to completly protect your superstructure from overspray. Also what about other boats or objects nearby make sure he is responsible for damage from overspray get it in writing (assuming he's spraying) I would also find out what system fillers primers etc he will be using.

I don't find the price "to good to be true" assuming your hull is not beat to death and in need of a lot of fairing. I do think it's very competitive so you should make sure you know what you will be getting.

Brian

 

[SeaEric]

I had my hull painted two years ago. I helped with prep, took the stainless off myself, and generally made life easier for the yard. It had multiple primers, more sanding, the multiple finish coats. We also did a green stripe at the sheer. I put the stainless and vents back on myself, along with the platform. The boat was shrink wrapped for protection from the rub rail up during painting. Awlcraft 2000 is the finish paint and my bill was $6000. materials and labor for a 46' Matthews MY. She looks spectacular.

 

[hatterass]

I'm afraid to do any of the work on the hull. last time I did that and got the topside ready for paint I think the yard charged me for my labor.
Dave

 

[Liquid Asset]

I have seen this Guys work. In the past he has done a fair ammount of fiberglass work for me and it has been Superb. He has not decided whether he will spray or whether he will Roll and tip the paint. He told me he has done both in the past and it just depends on where the yard puts us.

My hull is not beat to crap, so there will not be a lot of work, But he will have to remove the stipes because we are nto putting them back on. We will be painting the transom Black, so that added a little extra cost.

I guess we have to make a decision, but it seems you me from what you have told me you all have heard that the price is fair. If we do it, i will let you all know how it goes.

 

[Brian Degulis]

Definetly try to go for the spray and if the guy knows what he's doing he should be shooting for that also. I would be curious what yard in our area will allow you to do that. If you don't want to shout it out please PM me.

Brian

 

[MDUNLAVY]

We quote jobs for painting based on the amount of labor - some boats take more work, some less, so a $/ft is not a great way to compare costs between different boats because they may require more or less work.

An important thing to remember on painting hulls, is 75% (or more) of the work is in the prep. The amount of prep (or lack of) will greatly effect the quality and life of the paint job.

If we had to do an "average" amount of prep, mask off the complete superstructure, and spray the boat in our works building with a quality line of paint such as awlgrip or alexseal, I would say $350 per foot (includes both sides of the boat) "turn key" for hull sides only including all materials, haul out charges, etc. (a 48' boat would be $16,800k). This would also include the transom name in a basic design/font. This would be for sand, prime, sand, then top coat type of hullsides.

For only 1 side of the boat and no transom, the price would be less than half or less than $175 per foot turn key.

I hope this helps,

Michael

 

[Maynard Rupp]

The orignal posts on this thread talked about the painter using Imron. Later on it was mentioned that he may elect to "roll and tip depending on the yard". I love our Imron and would refinish with that material. I don't believe that Imron can be rolled and tipped though. Imron is already at spraying consistency when you buy the paint. I have also heard bad stuff about Awlcraft 2000. A friend had his new 49' sailboat painted darek blue with that product and the fenders wore the paint off to the white gellcoat. It wasn't scratched it looked like someone just rubbed through the paint, ouch! The yard that sprayed it said that the paint was his choice and they had recomended the, more expensive, Awlgrip. The finish was beautiful, but wore off in one season.

 

[hatterass]

Not to mess up this thread anymore they I have But that is what I was worried about on the Algrip. I just had the topside done and my dock lines wore through the paint in one season. that is why I was asking about the Imron and if it is more durable. Sorry again for mixing the threads.
Dave

 

[Brian Degulis]

Awlgrip is no more expensive than Awlcraft. The Awlgraft is softer and polishes easily similiar to Imron. The Awlgrip is much harder and considered a no maintenance coating it will resist fender scuffs and other abrasions much better than Awlcraft or Imron. Imron is a brusable product but like awlgrip the catylist and thinners are diffrent. Awlgrip is brushable Awlcraft is not.

Brian

 

[MikeP]

" Awlgrip is much harder and considered a no maintenance coating it will resist fender scuffs and other abrasions much better than Awlcraft or Imron."

Brian, what do you base that statement on? Their are Imron paint jobs on boats on this site that are 15+ years old and, according to the owners and the pics, still look nearly new. What actual evidence do you have that Awlgrip is superior?

12 year old Imron NEVER waxed:

 

[Liquid Asset]

My boat has the origional paint job. In stating that, it means that our paint job is 26 years old. The one thing I have to say is that I do know that if we gave it a good wash/buff/wax, it will shine very well. I just does not last more than a year, so subsequently we need to paint to reduce the maintenance that we are having to do on a yearly basis. Plus, we are interested in changing the hull color, which can only be done by painting.

From What I know about Awlgrip, it is not a superior product, but it is not less of one that Imron. It is a completlly different product and people must make a choice on how they want to do maintenance and what they are willing to do with their boat. For us, Imron will be more durable and it can be buffed to restore it towards the end of its life. We like that part of Imron paint and that is why we want to stick with it. I guess it may be personal preferance, but I would not call Either superior to one another since their forulation is completly different. Just my opion.

 

[Liquid Asset]

MikeP,
That paint job looks incredible, adn I can only hope that ours looks half that good after 12 years of abuse from us. I would venture to say that we are not as nice to our boat as you are.