Continuing Starting Problem

[bobk]

Wasn't the sync fixed with a new ignition switch? The power to the bridge from the er may now be an issue. If I remember correctly the harness brings power to te keys witches and panel with a large wire. Try getting it reerminated both sides.

Connectors can be deceiving.

I wish that were so. The switch worked for a while, but I can't remember for how long. On the way south that same year, I started to have issues again and Glendenning suggested I install a new a dual action solenoid. I put that in and it was fine for a long while but the problem re-emerged. Now I watch the volt meter when activating the sync. If voltage remains good, I can hear a click and it works. If not, voltage goes down and I try again until the solenoid catches. I'll check the wire ends. Where do I find the end in the ER?

Bobk

 

[Boatsb]

I believe there is a feed for the engine on the starter lug that should go to a switch. I'm not sure on the newer engines how they set them up. Mine go from the starter lug to the big fuse and k ice switch .

 

[SeaEric]

This may or may not be related but: We had a somewhat similar issue with a 1991 52 CPMY and it turned out to be a corroded ignition circuit fuse holder in an electrical panel box in the engineroom (fwd bulkhead stbd IIRC). This was a panel box with a cover held on with screws, not easily accessed or even noticed. Not sure if your 48 has such a thing but it's worth a look around.

 

[krush]

I just ordered some new toys, i mean tools, to track down problems like this.

You can get the leads without the book: http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=ESP181

Also, this is more fancy, but does other stuff (I do a lot of troubleshooting): http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=PPRPPH1

And this is to toss in and use for other things (smaller and cheaper, but redundant is some situations): http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=PPRPP401AS

Of course, you can also just use a volt meter and a headlight bulb or something that will make the circuit pass some current and show you the failed connection.

 

[rsmith]

Remember 99.99999% of DC problems are ground related

 

[bobk]

I just ordered some new toys, i mean tools, to track down problems like this.

You can get the leads without the book: http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=ESP181

Also, this is more fancy, but does other stuff (I do a lot of troubleshooting): http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=PPRPPH1

And this is to toss in and use for other things (smaller and cheaper, but redundant is some situations): http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=PPRPP401AS

Of course, you can also just use a volt meter and a headlight bulb or something that will make the circuit pass some current and show you the failed connection.

Thanks. This is an intermittent issue, so I need to be able to try to trace it when it happens and hope it continues while I do. The problem is the problem will go away just as fast as it appears. The engine always starts, just takes a bit longer in some cases.

Bobk

 

[bobk]

I would replace the secondary solonoid in the panel in the engine room. They do exactly what you describe when they start to fail. You can hook up a push button directly to the starter. When it does not start at the helm, try the button. If it works there you have the problem.

I opened the panel this afternoon and found the secondary (auxiliary) solenoid behind the battery switches. There were no identifying marks on it other than Cole Hersey and it doesn't look like it carries a lot of current. Does anyone have a part number for this? It looks like I'll need to pull one or both of the battery switches to gain access to change it and would like to have the new solenoid in hand when I do. PS, it seems to have been sprayed with something yellow.

Connections to the ground buss all looked clean and tight and it again fired right up.

Bobk

 

[Boatsb]

Post a pic of the solenoid.

I bet one of us can identify it by that.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I opened the panel this afternoon and found the secondary (auxiliary) solenoid behind the battery switches. There were no identifying marks on it other than Cole Hersey and it doesn't look like it carries a lot of current. Does anyone have a part number for this? It looks like I'll need to pull one or both of the battery switches to gain access to change it and would like to have the new solenoid in hand when I do. PS, it seems to have been sprayed with something yellow.

Connections to the ground buss all looked clean and tight and it again fired right up.

Bobk

The face panel with the battery switches attached to it will unscrew and you can probably get to the solenoid without disconnecting the switches. Make sure you disconnect the batteries first so you don't contact a hot wire in there.

There is also a parallel solenoid in there. Make sure you get the right one.