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Connecting Chain Rodes

  • Thread starter Thread starter ThirdHatt
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ThirdHatt

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I have a friend who as offered me his old anchor rode. It is 3/8" HT in very good condition which is exactly what I am looking into upgrading to. The problem is (and the reason he replaced it) is that it is two 150' sections joined together. The joint is the problem as it would get caught in his gypsy each time it passed. He finally bought a new 300' length to avoid the trouble.

Is there is any way to have them joined together in a manner that would 1. pass through the gypsy and 2. not reduce the overall strength? I would love to just have a link made to connect them, but I do not know how or where to do this. Surely shipping it to/from ACCO or otherwise would be cost prohibitive and I may have to just break down and buy all new chain for the boat. Any other suggestions?? THANKS!
 
There is a link that can be bought that is basically 2 "C" shapes that overlap and they have a female in one side and and a male in the other . You join the two by peening the males into the female. It supposedly is as strong as the chain itself . I had to cut mine one time and used one of these to repair it. It never jumps out of the chain gypsy. Worst Marine #135715......Pat
 
Why not cut a SS link at the weld, heat it, bend open and join the 2 chains together, close the link and get it welded. Tig Welding is the best for this application. Would not think this would cost more than .10 boat dollars.
 
SS is not anywhere near as strong as the galvanized chain...............Pat
 
Pat, that is an EXCELLENT idea and exactly what I was looking for. Problem is, when I went to the WM site and typed in the part number (thank you) the description that comes up states that the link is as strong as similarly sized proof coil chain. Unfortunately proof coil chain is about half the strength of hi-test/G4 chain. I want to use 3/8" HT but if I use that link it will reduce the strength of my 3/8"HT down to that of 3/8" proof coil chain, which is the same as the current 1/4"HT/G4 that I am trying to upgrade from. I'm afraid that if I use that product with the HT I would gain only the weight of the chain and none of the extra strength. I sure hope I am missing something here!
 
I've had one in my rode for about 3 years now. Last August we rode out Ernesto in Sandy Hook ,NJ. For 40 hours it blew 45-70mph and we had all 450 feet of chain out . No problems. My boat is very heavy also for a 61 CMY. I did think alot about that little POS in the middle of the damn rode the whole time though!!! I will replace it probably this season when I remove the windlass main shaft which got bent during that storm.....................Pat
 
Byron,
I'll look in my anchoring book tonight. I'm sure I saw some remedies for this situation. I'll let you know.
 
If it were me I would weld a link in, it is a pain to haul that much chain somewhere, but most yards can handle it, and it is cheap to do. just cut a link from the end and reweld it.
 
You folks are talking about a cold shut, i.e. the peened shut. There is also a welded shut that is better. Both claim to be the same strength as the chain and if you have the correct size, are the same size as the chain which makes the gypsy happy.

Ted
 
Byron,
What you need is splicing link called a Permanent Riveted Joining Link. It is the two "C" halves that you join with 4 rivets. I don't know where you can get one, but that is what Hinz recommends.
 
Welded Shut? Sounds good to me! Is it stronger than the cold shut, the two "c" halves that you rivet into making one link? The only one I have seen is only half as strong as HT, only proof-coil strength. Is there any data that would show the average strength of a welded shut link?
 
You can cut a link of you existing chain and reweld it. All chain we use is welded.
 
The WLL (working load limit) of 3/8th Grade 43 is 5400 lbs, the breaking strength is 16,000 lbs. You should not use the missing link, cold shut or some of the other whiz bang do dads, they are extremely weak, usually around 2650 WLL, who knows what the breaking strength is. A cold shut is usually only good for around 1000 lbs. Carbon steel chain is weldable or you can use a properly rated double clevis, or buy new chain. The double clevis maynot pass through some gypsies. they also use very small cotter pins which will rust to hold the load pins in place.

I sent you a PM on the alloy of Grade 43.
 
Chain is also tempered after welding so be sure to treat it properly after welding or it may be the weakest link Pun Intended.
 
BossLady, Thanks for the PM. I believe I will go this route. One quick question: I thought working load limit was 1/4 of break strength? If this is true the break strength of 3/8" HT would be 21,400lbs.

Boatsb, what is tempered? I know I can't galvanize, but I figured I'd just paint it as good as possible and keep an eye on it. How do you suggest I treat it? THANKS!
 
He is refering to oil or water quenching after heating it up. Talk to the welder about it. Just heat it up with a rosebud and then drop it in a water can. It will be close enough and way better than the alternatives for joining the chain. You can also buy spray paint galvanizing in a can.

Per the National Association of Chain Manufacturers:
grade 43
3/8ths
WLL: 5400 lbs Proof test min: 8100 lbs, Minimum Breaking Force: 16,200 lbs

This the minimum not the design breaking force. So some manufacturers will claim higher numbers.
 
Tempered is a heat treatment that makes the chain strong but not brittle. Its an involved process that when done correctly will make the repair as strong as the original. When done wrong it could weaken the splice even more.
 
Boatsb said:
Tempered is a heat treatment that makes the chain strong but not brittle. Its an involved process that when done correctly will make the repair as strong as the original. When done wrong it could weaken the splice even more.
You have brought up a good point, it is a two step process. Hardening and then tempering. You want to post the instructional how-to for him. I am going to bed. :D
 

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