Cockpit sole fishbox lid screws are stripped

[Pascal]

Pull the screws and hinges
Drill a slightly larger and longer hole for each screw
Fill with thicken epoxy. Use west system with their high strength filler (I think it's 405). Mix it to peanut butter consistency donut doesn't dripnout. Too thick for a syringe, use the west mixing sticks. Push it in, get a nail in to get air out, push again and repeat till air is out
Drill new holes for longer screws the longer screws will drastically increase strength

 

[Reefgeorge]

Pascal

In your approach do you think its best to clean out the new holes with a bent nail/truncated allen wrench so that the "injected" epoxy is wider than the hole and trapped behind the face or will these new epoxy plugs hold just fine in a cylindrical hole?

Thanks.

 

[Pascal]

I am assuming that the piece into which the screws go is solid all the way, not just a lip with thinner section In other word you can fill up deep into the hole.

If that s the case then just drill a deeper and fill. As long as you can really force the thick epoxy all the way, it will stick

If you find it too difficult to get the thicker epoxy all the way in the hole you can cover the hole line with duck tape and inject more liquid epoxy with a syringe thru the tape Either way will work

 

[krush]

I had to repair something very much like your situation on my RV basement storage door. The screw heads pulled thru the lip in the door. I took the door off, countersucnk the holes some to give more surface area, put aluminum tape on the backside to hold the epoxy, and filled the holes and broken off pieces with epoxy thickened with high-density thickner (west stuff or shredded glass). Used a bit bigger washer and bolts instead of the OEM rivets and it's been holding up great.

I made thick, but still able to flow out a syringe. Filling holes with a stick is futile, gotta use a syringe and fill from the bottom up, in my experience.