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Cockpit Design Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Capt.Erich
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Capt.Erich

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Mar 22, 2006
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338
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
34' SPORT CRUISER (1961 - 1965)
After two years of refit (engines, electrical, plumbing, interior, etc.), I have finally put aside my denial of the fuel tank issue that has plagued us. Yes, I am looking at cutting out the old plywood and teak deck, replacing the fuel tanks and building a new fibreglass deck. The demolition and tank replacement is within my expertice but I am looking for advice about designing the new cockpit. Any photo's of projects would be helpful. Thanks in advance.
 
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What do you want to do in the cockpit? Fishing? cruising?

Dan (34Hatt) has molds for a fishbox. Others may have similar items for bait stations and other items. Its not a bad idea to see what is available. Anyone want to step up and offer some molds or parts?
 
I definately want fish boxes as they can be used for storage when cruising. I am more interested in the designs around new aluminum tanks. The old cockpit used the old tanks as support for the cockpit. My understanding is that you can't do this with aluminum tanks.

Also, what coring materials have people used besides balsa?
 
Used Nidacore when I replaced my cockpit sole on my 32'. Two 1/2" pieces. Will never rot and damm near indestructible. My 18 yr son took the claw side of a 160z hammer aqnd hammered as hard as he could. Nothing!!! Not even a crack. I used two 4 x 8' sheets. It comes in many thicknesses. \Google the company,. Good luck.
 
Hi Ernie,
Never done a cockpit, but have done a lot of glass work over the years. Here are some ideas. First: can you visit a boat manufacturer to see what they do...I've been in a number of facilities in Maine,for example, and usually the folks are happy to show off their workmanship. Go aboard some local Hatteras to see what features you like.

Nidacore or other synthetic coring are an excellentway the go....but what's wrong with plywood? Just coat the under side (exposed to the bilge) with some epoxy and maybe a single layer of lightweight material to double the protective finish....it will last forever. I can't imagine why aluminum tanks could not support a cockpit floor....but glassing in some supports around the tanks to hold the flooring is no big deal.

The most important thing with adding any tanks is the specific grade of aluminum used, how they are fastened in place,the proper use of baffels to prevent surge, and proper cushioning against supports. It's especially important the supporting structure be flat and true before installing tanks and that proper cushioning be used. Likely some strapping arrangement is necessary to lock them in place...I understand Hatteras fiberglass tanks sit on the hull, foam under the tank, then mostly tabbled/glassed around the edges...maybe somebody can add more about that here.

I would suggest considering some way to drain rainwater and saltwater overboard from the cockpit. It especially collects in recessed hatch channels, if you use them, and then can run into the bilge...not a big deal but messy...

Consider your hatch covers before starting work; maybe the heavy duty commercial aluminum and waterproof style??? Aluminum might get too hot in the tropics and might sweat in your locale???(many types in the Hamilton Marine catelogue widely used in Maine for lobster boats.) Or you can make you own from plywood and fiberglass if you can figure out a waterproof attachment method.
My 1972 Hatteras 48 YF has a LOUSY arrangement: fiberglass channels under the floor (which are like a drain pipe and not saturated with resin against the waterflow) between the forward cockpit hatch and after hatch, then towards corner drains at the stern on each side. why LOUSY? because water sits in the channels and freezes and screws up the fiberglass floor!!!!...I have seen a number of old Hatt YF with badly deterioriated cockpit floors....mine is original and ok (I never figured out why), but the first thing I did after purchase was add a winter framework and cover so freezing rain and snow would NOT keep the channels wet and freezing all winter.

Good luck restoring your older girl!!!
 
Plywood will always be susceptible to rot. I know because I need to fix some. It is not the best material for the job but was probably used for cost reasons.

Aluminum tanks can not be used for support nor should the FG ones have been unless designed to be structural.

The rubbing of the deck support on the AL tanks can cause failure. It opens the AL to air and allows them to corrode. They should be mounted in a way to prevent abrasion and wet contact.
 
Why not contact hatteras about making you fiberglass tanks. They are not busy.
 
Eric I need too find the pictures of Magic Hat a 34C did new tanks and new cockpit. Nida core is good but I did this job with coosa much better.
http://www.coosacomposites.com/

More money but worth it!

The mounting of the tanks came out real nice and deck does not touch tanks.
 
how good at wood working are you? everything done right takes patience and thought with LOTS of measuring thrown in. i suggest you stay with resin, glass and coring material. heres how i would do it. cut out the exisiting deck all the way to the inside gunnel/panel. when the old deck is out completely you will need to create an angle 'shelf' on all four sides of opening. this 'angle' will be the load carrying member for all of the weight of the deck, with the exception of perhaps four vertical supports off the stringers in the center area. the degree of the angle and attachment are something you need to figure out there as i cant see that. the support 'angle' can be made from polyester and roving easily with 4/5 layers ending up approx 6" x 4". get this angle attached via epoxy resin and even side to side and pitching at least 1/4" per foot towards transom. now you need to make a full size template. take some 2x6 pine and find a cockpit with a crown you like and scribe this crown onto the 2x6. you only need to scribe the top of the 2x6, leave the bottom as recieved. scribe enough 2x6 lumber to put a piece across the cockpit every say 16"
now you need to notch each end so that the scribe across the top ends in a point at each 'angle'. in other words you dont want the scribed top to stand proud of the 'angle' at all, the end of the scribe perfectly meets the 'angle'. get some 1/4" ply and scribe this to match the perimeter of the deck and fasten these panels to the scribed 2x6s. get a very accurate scribe here and you'll be able to build a deck that will drop right onto the 'angle' with little trimming. go ahead and take out the full size template and use it to lay up the deck. when deck is laid up, flip it and use the 2x6 stock as stiffeners or make up some V shape from roving and use that to stiffen the under side of the deck. now thicken some epoxy put it all over the 'angle' and drop your new deck onto the 'angle'. obviously i left out more than afew details like hatches etc but its food for thought. why cant you cut out the existing deck in one piece and reuse it?
 

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