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cleaning anodized aluminum tower

jim rosenthal

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Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
11,050
Hatteras Model
36' CONVERTIBLE-Series I (1969 -1977)
This question is on behalf of friends who own a Rampage sportfishing boat that they keep at Ocean City, MD. The boat was equipped from new with an aluminum tower, which I imagine is anodized, and they are having trouble keeping it looking good. What are the best products for cleaning and shining up anodized aluminum, in your experience(s), without stripping or damaging the anodizing- or isn't it possible to do this? I don't have any of this material on Blue Note, so I am not familiar with how to take care of it. But more than likely someone here does.

Thanks, in advance, for any help given.
 
I have anodized aluminum rails on my 70 ft and never use anything other than soap and water, that stuff can come off so easily with chemicals or abrasives, he may end up stripping and painting if it's getting too ugly. If someone has found a magic solution, please post...
 
Buff Magic made by Yachtbrite. This not only takes the water stains off of the anodize but protects it as well. Check out their website. You can use it on both fiberglass and metal. Fabulous stuff!!
 
When I bought my boat 10 years ago there were portions of the aluminum braces on the helm seat that were all pitted and flaky. I used sand paper to remove all the bad parts using coarse to fine paper down to bare aluminum. After many months the bare aluminum looks just like the anodized parts. It happens naturally, just add oxygen. Actually the bare aluminum looks just as good or better than the anodized, in my opinion. Just my 2 cents. Ron
 
I replaced my original anodized window frames about 12 years ago. Unfortunately I forgot to include the flybridge frames. In trying to get these done in a hurry I was told that EPA rules had changed the chemical process. What was formerly done in a short time now took two months in solution. The bridge had to wait until later that year. The good news seems to be that the new frames have held up very well. They are at least as good as the old--but of course are only a quarter as old at this point.

After committing to the new anodizing I learned of stainless frames. I wondered if this might have been a better choice. At one time someone had tried to polish out an imperfection on one of my original salon window frames right by the side door where I got to look at it every day. Their abrasive had removed the original anodizing and the exposed aluminum had turned a dark gray. It did not occur to me to try to buff this dark 4 inch spot out. I was too afraid it would make it worse. Because of pinhole pitting I replaced it all.

I have other original Hatteras stainless in my rail stanchions and the frame of my Bimini. This seems to need an annual polish with Bartender's Friend to remove rust spots. I suspect the cheap imported stainless of today would be worse. So I think, on the whole, I would stick with anodizing or re-anodizing over stainless.
 
I've always had good luck with Flitz. It polishes it up nicely. Follow up with your favorite wax.
I haven't tried this on heavily pitted areas and don't have any experience dealing with those.
 
All aluminum needs is a fresh water washoff after each use and a monthly coating of Shiela Shine or Woody wax. Once it is let go there is no bringing it back.
 
All aluminum needs is a fresh water washoff after each use and a monthly coating of Shiela Shine or Woody wax. Once it is let go there is no bringing it back.

So true if it a little chalky I seen Gary cleaner wax do a nice job cleaning it up some. If its pitted nothing is fixing that!
 
All aluminum needs is a fresh water washoff after each use and a monthly coating of Shiela Shine or Woody wax. Once it is let go there is no bringing it back.

I'll second Sheila Shine. I've used it for years on stainless steel appliances and leaves them looking new and I use it on the aluminum tube frame of my Hatt's hardtop and it shines and leaves a protective film that repels water. Spray on cloth and wipe on.
 

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