Sam's is your source for Hatteras and Cabo Yacht parts.

Enter a part description OR part number to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog:

Email Sam's or call 1-800-678-9230 to order parts.

Cleaniedini 65C Restoration Project

I got my ABYC codes and I am starting to get the engine room together, well I guess it is more apart. But my metal is coming in the next day or so I can make my deck edges and support. Then I am going to cut the diamond plate and install it with some hinges so you can fold the diamond plate over on itself and then take the whole center section out. The forward deck will just be removable. The diamond plate is going to go around the fuel tanks and I am looking at getting some of those epoxy counters for on top of the fuel tanks. Alot of the stuff that was added on was not run very well so I am going to do that.

Overall the engine room is coming along, but slowly. THe whole place needs to be steam cleaned...

Make sure to check out the new video!! www.cleaniedini.com/hatteras.htm

Regards

Dini
 
Cruisair has never used anything but R22 for the A/C units.
 
I started taking apart the compressors and found out they are R-22! That is good. I also got my manual from Hatteras today which is very nice! Does anyone know anything about the emergency bilge pump? It is just a flexable vane pump with and electric clutch. I had one on the port engine but it didn't look particularly stock. It also didn't have a suction pipe, just located low on the engine. Also didn't have any belts on it. Anyone have anything like this?

Regards
Dini
 
I am redoing the deck plating currently. If you look at the aluminum decking supports in the ER you can notice that they don't do all the way to the wall. Is there any reason that the forward decking can end about 5 inches from the forward bulkhead. That is the point where the aluminum support ends. I will have to post some photos tomorrow as it is difficult to describe. I would leave this point open so that there would be plenty of room for all hydraulic, electrical and other hoses and such. Additionally, with a smaller deck plating in front of the engine it could be removed easily to access the bilge.

So the existing aluminum supports will be lined with 2" aluminum angle facing up and some additional supports will be added and the aluminum diamond plate will fit in the angle iron with nowhere to slip. There will be some screws holding the plates in place but other than that every hose and such will be accessible.

Suggestions??

Regards
Dini
 
Is that stuff going to rattle while underway? I don't think(and I could be wrong) that any Hatts came with aluminum treadplate OEM. Most of the original decking that I have ever seen in a Hatteras was plywood. I would hate to see you go to all of this work to then have to go back and try to quiet all of the rattles.
 
I dont think theres any problem with the port for a hose or wire chase, but really consider coaming around them to keep ANYTHING from rolling into the bilge. Ive used strategically placed 2x2 aluminum angle gussets to support free standing ends on the plates. You mite know that it'll give, but some un-suspecting hand will step on it and go for a ride. Got sutures in your first aid box? Mine does, but no Novocaine-- :eek: :D ws
 
SKYCHENEY said:
Is that stuff going to rattle while underway? I don't think(and I could be wrong) that any Hatts came with aluminum treadplate OEM. Most of the original decking that I have ever seen in a Hatteras was plywood. I would hate to see you go to all of this work to then have to go back and try to quiet all of the rattles.
Click to expand...


C'mon man-- your supposed to have oriental area rugs to dampen the REZ ! Really, its way nicer than plywood and you never hear it. Knowing a boat like "The Other Hatt Trick" it should be fastened with 1/4-20 countersunk oval head stainless steel machine screws; polished heads of course! ANAL you say? Actually thats what I did on my Roamer. Plus polished every single screw head on 110 feet of polished stainless steel rub rail too. I mustve gotten bored once or twice! And Doc Rosie wants to help me with a re-power?? LOL ws
 
The angle will be lined with a rubber so it doesn't make a racket. I had to build some decking out of iron and noise wasn't an issue. I just did not like how the plywood on this particular boat was sorta rotten and it had broken one of the holding tank fittings because all the weight we being supported by the fitting as the wood had broken.
The diamond plate will be nice! I am getting some epoxy lab type tables to replace those counter tops. The ER is going to be sweet. I mean the rest of the boat is nice enough.

Let me throw another plan out there. Stainless steel cooled exhaust from the exhaust manifold, replacing the old seamed steel stuff... It will be sweet.

Regards
Dini

PS Check out the interesting part of my site!
http://www.cleaniedini.com/antarctica.htm
 
Just dont forget to put the TRIPOLI to it! ws
 
C'mon Bill, Stainless screws into aluminum plate? Sounds like a corrosion nightmare. I rebuilt an Eagle intercity bus once. It had aluminum skin and rivets over a steel tube frame. That thing was rotted beyond belief. I had to strip it to the frame and weld in new tube and then re-skin the outside. That was my lesson in aluminum and steel don't mix.
 
Diamondplate? Always thought it was the coolest stuff and really wanted it in my next engineroom. Unitil I got it in the engine room!

Looks great; sucks from a practical aspect. It's a pain in the knees to work on and it's a pain to maintain. I've lived with it for over two years and I would NEVER use it again UNLESS it is covered with the clear rubber stuff that I've seen used on some charter boats. That way you'd have the look of the diamondplate with the advantage of a soft surface that is immune to the usual chemicals that pit/erode the AL AND you can see the DP through it.
 
I can understand the hard on the knees. I never had a huge issue with it (young knees i guess) but in addition, for safety and to keep the polished diamond clean i was going put down grooved rubber duckwalk (i think that is what you call that rubber you put in front of breaker boards) that way it is soft to step on and you can just roll it up if you need to do work or show off your ER.

When it gets greasy you can just wipe it up or roll it up and clean it or if it gets old you just replace it.
 
SKYCHENEY said:
C'mon Bill, Stainless screws into aluminum plate? Sounds like a corrosion nightmare. I rebuilt an Eagle intercity bus once. It had aluminum skin and rivets over a steel tube frame. That thing was rotted beyond belief. I had to strip it to the frame and weld in new tube and then re-skin the outside. That was my lesson in aluminum and steel don't mix.
Click to expand...


Just lucky I guess. Carbon steel is another story tho... Ive always used the ss fasteners on the Roamer, usually threaded right into the alum. To me its provided bullet proof service.Even CC in '63 used silicone bronze screws, on the STEEL boats too. I need to take a couple of thousand digital pics of the Roamer so I can post some here. :eek: ws
 
Cleaniedini said:
I can understand the hard on the knees. I never had a huge issue with it (young knees i guess) but in addition, for safety and to keep the polished diamond clean i was going put down grooved rubber duckwalk (i think that is what you call that rubber you put in front of breaker boards) that way it is soft to step on and you can just roll it up if you need to do work or show off your ER.

When it gets greasy you can just wipe it up or roll it up and clean it or if it gets old you just replace it.
Click to expand...

I found that the rubber backed industrial carpet runners work well. You see them in offices a lot on tile floors. NON slip, come in about 5 colors. I use the brown ones. If you lease them and they get too dirty you exchange them for new ones. I pull mine out and hose them clean-- they dry quick and never rot.
Just a thought. ws
 
Cleaniedini said:
I can understand the hard on the knees. I never had a huge issue with it (young knees i guess) but in addition, for safety and to keep the polished diamond clean i was going put down grooved rubber duckwalk (i think that is what you call that rubber you put in front of breaker boards) that way it is soft to step on and you can just roll it up if you need to do work or show off your ER.

When it gets greasy you can just wipe it up or roll it up and clean it or if it gets old you just replace it.
Click to expand...

Careful, too many "pretty over practical" decisions, and folks will mistake her for a Sea Ray!
 
The diamond plate, it is a feel good thing. I have not had many of those lately. Mostly it has all been overwhelming and costly news. Plus I got 4x8 sheets of 1/8" Aluminum diamond for 100$ so you can't beat that. No way no how. It is polished. Might as well use it, who knows, in the end it may be someone with a Sea Ray who ends up buying it?!?!?! That would be a shame.
 
A new one

Hey guys,
Been working, not talking so much. Got all the ER decking done. I will post photos. We are about to have a cleaning service come in and get all the nasty stuff out of the bilges and get it ready to paint.

In the meantime I was taking a gander in the electrical drawings. I saw that the battery and starting cable required was 250 MCM or now known as kCmil. They has 4/0 wire in there that is quite a bit smaller. Anyone have any say on the topic? The price of 4/0 as compared to 250MCM is about half to a third ($3.76/ft as compared to like $9/ft)

Regards
Dini
www.cleaniedini.com
 
How big are the batteries and what engines do you have?

The amount of ampherage will determine the cable size.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
38,156
Messages
448,751
Members
12,482
Latest member
UnaVida

Latest Posts

Trending content

Back
Top Bottom