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Center Head filling up to the rim

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dreamboat
  • Start date Start date
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You have to remove the waste (output) hose from the housing to be able to remove the stator housing because you have to "unscrew" the waste rotor to remove the housing/be able to remove/replace the stator. You probably don't have sufficient play/excess waste hose to be able to remove the hose without removing, or at least unbolting/shifting the pump itself. You probably have sufficient hose slack to remove the intake water stator housing without removing the hose from the housing.

Here are the procedures from RAZ to remove the waste rotor:

"Procedure: Locking Pump For Rotor Removal on 24 and 32 Volt pumps

(Tools: 1/8" Pocket Screwdriver, normal wrenches)

When pump nose is removed and you are ready to unscrew the rotor…

Remove one of two short ¼-20 hex bolts that secure solenoid to pump case

Insert the small screwdriver into the threaded hole to contact the motor armature

Apply moderate pressure to lock armature while unscrewing rotor. This contact is harmless to the motor armature.

Note that on toilet pumps it may not be necessary to lock motor while reinstalling the rotor"

Their instructions to just "unscrew" the rotor are a bit optimistic...sometimes you have to whack it with a hammer to break it loose but usually you can put a decent size Crescent wrench on the "T" of the rotor that will be visible and unscrew it with the armature locked down. You should carefully examine the rotors when you are doing this work. If they are pitted or otherwise damaged, they will quickly damage the new stator. The rotors are pretty pricy... Raz has all the parts necessary and good customer support if you run into an issue.

Before you start working on the pump, do several head flushes with some clorox poured into the toilet water and then wait a few minutes before beginning the work. This will eliminate most, if not all of the objectionable odor involved in this sort of work.
 
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I wore gloves too. I did find a lot of hard "human cement" build up in the housings. Tried chisel first but ultimately used a dremel with sandpaper to shine it up. A dust mask is not inappropriate whilst doing this...
 
I think that raz marine has the part that you are looking for. Try giving them a call.
 
Usually good insurance to install a new seal kit when replacing the stator and/or rotor if your pumps are as hard to get to as two of mine.
 

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Was that shot staged? The GM motor is right next to you.
 
Was that shot staged? The GM motor is right next to you.
Looks like the bow stateroom of a 55C or 52C. There are two pumps in there.
 
You're both wrong. The answer was given to you. Three pumps in there. The ones that needed work are (surprise) the ones you can't see or get to without a chiropractor. And great guess, 55C.
 

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So I was right just worded it wrong when I said 2 pumps in there. By in I meant in where your head is. If I recall the 2 head pumps are in there along with the FW pump.
 
You're both wrong. The answer was given to you. Three pumps in there. The ones that needed work are (surprise) the ones you can't see or get to without a chiropractor. And great guess, 55C.

You need to get some skinny kids down there. You will pay more for the doctors visit than it costs to fix LOL
 
No Jack, I said "are as hard to get to as two of mine." Tricky wording maybe, but there are three head pumps in there. F/W pump is in ER; that may have been relocated for the bow thruster that makes GM work real tight. Speaking of tight spots...lots more room under a 1271 once you get comfortable with the idea of depending on thirty year old bolts holding up two tons of iron. Personally, I'm not into caving. That's why these pics are of a guy who lives at the marina and works for $25/hour. He's in his 40's and appears to have spinal doublejointitis syndrome--a really good guy and great general boat mechanic.
 

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glad I have vacuflush!
 
Boat yoga in one of it many, many poses...
 
Vacuflush heads suck.

This whole threads is just crap full of dumb shit.
 

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