Bypassing Water Heater

[Ernie Piotrowski]

On my 1983 32' FBSF the water heater has finally given out. In attempting to by-passthe heater for winterizing, I've come against a problem not sure how to solve. Have removed the compression fitting to the hot water outflow from the heater, attached a vynl hose and blew -50 antifreeze thru the hot water lines. BUT, the cold water line is a mystery. when OME installed my system is as follows (sorry no pictures): water from tank goes thru an in-line filter to the "in" port on the water pumpt; then "out" thru the outlet side thru (2) ITT accumulator tanks; then through a plastic fitting into a "T" bronze fitting; the "right side of the fitting leads to brass (bronze) threaded fitting into which a compression copper fitting is attached for the cold water flow to the various fixtures. To the left of the "T" fitting,, the water flows into a fitting shaped like a barrel, held to the floor platform with a cushioned clamp. This fitting appears to be a "none-return" valve to prevent hot water from entering the cold water supply side; then into the cold water inlet to the water heater. The only way I can see to winterize the cold water side of the system is remove the compression fitting at the "T" brass fitting and then attach a hose to the copper line and pump antifreeze thru to all the cold water faucet outlets. It is a real b---to remove the compression fitting as it is up against the aft bulkhead and other fittins to the system limit the size of pipe wrench usable. Does anyone have a similiar system or a good, easy (easier) way of winterizing the water system other than filling the hot water heater with 5 gals of -50? Thanks for your help.

 

[UNIQUE_NAME]

how about removing the hot water inlet side fitting, splicing a hose between the HW inlet and HW outlet fitting. pull the freshwater tank pickup hose, stick it in pink stuff and use the freshwater pump to circulate. the HW tank will have to be disconnected sooner or later, might as well be sooner.

 

[Ernie Piotrowski]

Thanks Salty, your suggestion is exactly what I tried to do. Unfortunately, there is no "hose", everthing is hard plumbed with copper tubing with the only break at the compression fitting in the cold water line. It appears the only way to bypass the HW inlet and outlet is to break the fitting in the cold water leading to the cold water fixtures, then either individually winterizing the cold and hot water lines or fabricate a "y" fitting to do both at the same time. The real issue is how to break the compression fitting in the cold water feed line downstream of the water pump. CAMCO's by-pass kit has a much simpler configuration but necessitates removal of the OME system, which I intend to do when I replace the WH. Just looking for an easier way, if one exits, to winterize now. Looks like there is no "easy" way. Like everthing else, with age compromsies have to be made. Thanks again.

 

[UNIQUE_NAME]

i was really talking temporary here to enable the winterization. more than likely the compression fittings and piping connecting to the heater will have to be redone to fit the new HW heater. what i was suggesting is to CUT the in and out pipe and clamp a piece of hose in between. this would hold up fine for winterizing. i did this 2 years ago.

 

[Ernie Piotrowski]

If I can't get the cold water compressilon fitting off, I will have to cut the copper tube just past the fitting then connect hose to both. That should work for now. Thanks again.

 

[(Nobody You Know)]

Some years back when I kept a small Sea Ray on a lake in north Georgia (yea that's right, we had weather in the teens in north GA) there was at the time an anti freeze made for marine fersh water systems. Today West Marine offers "Seafit Chemicals" for the job. Suggestion: run all your fresh water out of your tank and system, pour the recomended amount into your fresh water tank (maybe add a little water), and then open all hot and cold water faucets and systems to a slow flow (toilets, wash down, etc.) to circulate the antifreeze all throughout the entire system including the water heater. Then kiss your aggrivating fitting problems good bye for the season. As a cavieot, this type of antifreeze is specifically designed for fresh water systems, but like ourselves we keep a ton of bottled water aboard for drinking.

Off course, on the other hand, you could fill your water tank with a good gin - which should not freeze - and come next spring, with a little vermouth....forget it.

Bill
(Nobody You Know)

 

[saltshaker]

I remove both in and out lines to the HW tank, and have a hose with compression fittings on both ends to put the HW lines into the CW circuit. Pump the antifreeze directly from the bottle. I would not pour it into the FW tank, your fresh water will stink for half the season.

Jack Sardina

 

[double eagle]

WHAT IS WRONG WITH RUMMMMMMM>>>>?//////?/?????
THAT'S WHAT WE USE HERE IN THE KEYS
here we are waiting on the hurricane....
probbably willl miss us again...thanks lord...
stay tuned from
MARATHON FLA

DOUBLE EAGLE

 

[Beckytek]

When I replaced my hot water heater last year I replaced the copper tubing with SeaTech flexpipe and quick disconnect fittings. They also fit perfectly with the copper tubing. I used the 5/8" tubing which fit my tubing. The fittings are just push-ons and can be disconnected easily without the use of tools. The flex pipe comes in blue and red to discern between hot and cold. When it is time to winterize you can make the connect from hot to cold easily with a short piece of flex pipe, then restore to normal when done. If you want to keep the copper tubing just loosen the clamps a little so you can move the pipe about an inch that's all the room you need to connect or disconnect the fittings. They are in the BoatUS catalog page 542. That's the only place I have found the size I needed. Ron